Hi
I've been doing some fascia on my benchwork, using the brown hardboard or some call it masonite, anyone have experience on finishing the seams/joints? Was wondering if I could drywall tape and plaster sand and finish with paint? Suggestions, ideas?
Thanks
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
Sand the masonite first with 180-220 sandpaper. Otherwise same as sheet rock finishing. I prefer fibergalss reinforced tape over paper tape. Pics of backdrop finishing but fascia same same.
Alan
Freelancing the LK&O Railroad
Thanks Alan great suggestion. When you say fiberglass tape are you referring to the sticky mesh tape?
I used 1/8" Masonite to create all of the coved corners in my backdrop, which is mostly the drywalled walls of the room. It was installed as shown in the diagram below. The Masonite was countersunk for the drywall screws along both vertical edges, which hold it in place, then taped and mudded as would be done on regular drywall. I used paper tape, as I prefer it to the mesh type, but either should work.
I also used Masonite for the layout fascia, and while I do intend to paint it, it won't be taped and mudded, as it likely wouldn't stand up all that well. I have, at least a couple of times, removed portions of the fascia on the upper level to allow better access when working on the lower level. While the joints between sections are visible, the upper fascia is joined together with backer pieces at the joints - a 48' long piece of 1/8" Masonite...
When necessary, I remove the screws from one side and those at the end of the aisle, then swing the freed portion across the aisle and clamp it to the fascia there.As you can see, I also used Masonite for the sliding and removeable doors hiding all of the junk under the layout, and it was also used for the kick-panels at floor level.For anyone using Masonite in these situations, regular Masonite will work perfectly-well for forming fascia- or backdrop curves, and the 1/8" variety can be curved to at least an 8" radius without breaking. Contrary to popular belief, the more expensive Tempered Masonite is no more flexible than the regular variety, as the "tempering" refers only to the hardness of the surface.
Wayne
wickman Thanks Alan great suggestion. When you say fiberglass tape are you referring to the sticky mesh tape?
Yes.
Thanks Wayne for the excellent detailed information.
Alan I never realized the mesh stuff was fiberglass, thats all I ever used for drywalling in the past.
Typical scarf joint in the Masonite hardboard fascia on my N-scale layout. Pre- and post installation. When I get further along and am ready to paint, I'll add a tiny little dab of sheetrock mud to the pneumatic nail holes and sand them smooth. They'll end up as little white dots on the brown hardboard. I do not use oval-head stainless steel screws with decorative countersunk washers or anything like that. I also don't plan to tape and/or mud the joints. When painted they'll be invisible enough.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
Dr. Wayne. If it's at all convenient, would you post some pics of how your sliding doors and any other removable panels are constructed or at least shown opened partially? I'm considering this approach. I've never liked curtains as well although I still might use them...
Due to narrow aisle I'd have to have a drawer for the yardmaster's car cards, etc.
Thanks if you've got 'em, Jim
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Capt. Grimek ...If it's at all convenient, would you post some pics of how your sliding doors and any other removable panels are constructed or at least shown opened partially?...
Hey, Jim, they're there to hide the junk, not show it!
Capt. GrimekThanks if you've got 'em
I don't got 'em, but it's no trouble to go and get 'em. Be back shortly.
Woulda been back sooner, but photobucket was a bit slow tonight.This is one of the sliding doors on the aisle near the entry to the room. The doors, layout fascia, and kick panel are all 1/8" Masonite...
...and a close-up of the plastic door track, made by Stanley. The upper track is similar, but a little deeper so that the doors can be lifted to install or remove them:
The shelving in this area is 3/8" sheathing plywood atop a framework of 2"x4"s 16"oc, so all manner of heavy junk can be kept here, out of sight unless I need it (or somebody asks to see it )
Some aisles have lift-off panels, and the shelving here is left-over deck boards...
...the panels are hung on dowels, pegged into the 2"x4" framing which supports the open grid benchwork of the layout...
The end of the aisle (currently storage for scenery-making supplies) has sliding doors, but this time they're 1/4" Masonite - I couldn't find any more 1/8" track, and I believe that it's been discontinued...
Most of the layout room pictures I've shown previously were taken from near the entry aisle, and from there, the overlapping lift-off panels present a relatively smooth facade. From the other end of the aisle, though, the overlap is more noticeable...
Another aisle, with more 1/8" sliding doors. Here they reveal my ControlMaster 20 and behind the support post, the circuit board for my PWM throttle...
Another aisle with sliding doors and plywood shelf, this time with some outdoor stuff...
This is the fascia on the end of the peninsula portion of the layout...
I also curved the 1/8" Masonite which covers the support for the layout here...
The rest of this aisle has lift-off panels on both sides, with 1/4" sliding doors at the end. The lift-offs can be any length you want, depending on what you want to store and how the benchwork support is constructed. The benchwork support here is all 2"x4" (or larger) lumber, conveniently "left-over" when I built the house.
Because all of the main level benchwork support is only 31" high, I omitted any shelf beneath the peninsula area, which allows taller junk to be stored standing on the floor...
...and the rest of the aisle...
Great pics and ideas Wayne. I ended up doing the tape and plaster method , in fact I was going to countersink the screws but ended up glueing and screwing the masononite and after a couple days pulled the screws and because of what screws did to the masononite I simply sanded doen the holes and applied tape and then plaster and sanded down nicely. I have the fascia primed for now and I will paint it flat black once the scenery directly behind the fascia is done.
Thanks, Lynn.I'll eventually paint the fascia, but all the rest of that Masonite will remain as-is.
wickman ... I have the fascia primed for now and I will paint it flat black once the scenery directly behind the fascia is done.
... I have the fascia primed for now and I will paint it flat black once the scenery directly behind the fascia is done.
Flat black is hard to clean. Consider satin or egg shell.
Unfortunately I had already purchased the flat black paint. I don't plan on painting now until the messy scenery behind the fascia is done.
Wayne, Awesome!!! Thanks so much! I've been struggling with ideas on how to do lift up/out or sliding panel access "doors" and still use my existing under the layout tupperware drawer cabinets. Your use of hanging panels on dowels may just be the perfect solution for me.
I need immediate-quick access to under the benchwork if I ever need to rotate an electrically dead turnout machine or look at wiring during an active Ops session and I'm going to mock up the hanging dowel method and see if it'll work in my too narrow aisle.
Your photography is as craftsman like as your modeling! Thanks for the detailed info.! (Can you tell I'm excited?)
Edit/Addition: What color are you planning on painting your facia?
Jim
Thanks for you kind comments, Jim.
Capt. GrimekWhat color are you planning on painting your facia?
It'll be black, probably in an eggshell finish.
Any way of changing a flat black to eggshell black?grrrr
wickman Any way of changing a flat black to eggshell black?grrrr
doctorwayne wickman Any way of changing a flat black to eggshell black?grrrr Sure....new can of paint using an eggshell base. Wayne
Yep
Wayne, a quick follow up question.
With the hung on dowel doors/hatches, did you feel the need to either brace them in any way for warpage (didn't seem likely) and /or find a need to add magnets or such to keep the bottoms of those doors flush/ "closed" with the surrounding masonite or is the weight of 1/4" masonite plenty? I'm going to mock up soon...and wondered if I should pick up some door catch magnets or similar ideas.
Thanks again, Jim
All of the hanging doors are 1/8" Masonite, but I haven't noticed any warping and they hang pretty-much straight down.I numbered mine, with the intention of doing a room map so that anybody looking for household stuff under the layout would know where to look, but so far I'm the only step-'n'-fetch it, and I know pretty-well where everything is.I do have a fair amount of layout-related stuff under there, although most of the rolling stock is deliberately on open shelves immediately below the stacked staging yards.I also keep tools, home maintenance supplies, car-related stuff, kids' toys, summer outdoor equipment, and some smaller furniture under there.
Great! Thanks again, Wayne. Mine will be black (if I indeed go this route) also. The existing upper fascia is already black. I like the theatrical trick of "making it disappear" using black. I'll measure things out this weekend.
Cheers, Jim