Bobburger,
Most of the paints You described I have tried since Floquil was taken off the market. I was normally a solvent based user of all paints for I also painted full size trucks/cars. When I got into using Acrylic paints around the late 80's, a lot of them I did not care for, I won't mention the brands for I don't want to bash any brands, but I will say....I stay away from air-brush ready paints, for I believe it is a waste of money. What I decided on for airbrushing since I started using it was Tamiya Acrylic's. I believe it has about the best coverage/finish than a lot of others. I also was able to mix a lot of Railroad specific colors and use some ready mixed colors that are almost dead-on to Floquil colors, just a different color name. I also am into Military miniatures figures/vehicles that I have been using Vallejo, Citadel paints and some times Humbrol, also acrylics, some colors that are really unheard of to some modelers. Take a look at the link for Tamiya and pick a bottle to give it a shot, You may like it:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=72#.WLSPyDvytPY
I usually use Denatured Alcohol(not Isopropyl) to mix all the Acrylics I use, but You can use their thinner if You prefer. If You have any questions, feel free to send Me a PM (private msg.) or here. Been in the HO scale side of the hobby since 8yrs. old 1950, will be 75 this yr. So I have been doing it a little while.
Take Care!
Frank
I have produced lots of great results using craft paints (Craftsmart, Americana, Ceramcoat, Artist's Loft, Createx, etc.) in my airbrush. Yes, you need to thin craft paint and some of the lighter colors will require multiple coats to cover adequately, but they are perfect for structures, scenery and even rolling stock. I find that craft paints lay down and adhere best when a little alcohol is added. However, I have also found that it is best to do most of the paint thinning using water prior to adding just a few drops of alcohol. Otherwise, some craft paints will actually thicken when alcohol is added directly to the full strength craft paint. Also note that these paints dry quickly so clean your airbrush often! You can't complain about the price either!
Hornblower
bobburgerIt seems that MicroMark no longer sells its MicroLux paints.
Bob
Where did you get that info? I received a MicroMark catalogue in the mail today and it lists the complete line of MicroLux paints. They are also listed on the website.
Joe
Like Frank (zstripe), I use Tamyia Acrylic Paints diluted in isopropyl alcohol for airbrushing. Unfortunately they are not color specific for rail roads.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Rapido Trains has just come out with a whole line of 'airbrush ready' acrylic paints in railroad colors. Haven't used them myself yet but I've been hearing good things...
http://rapidotrains.com/proto-paint/
As with some other, I use the cheap craft acrylic, and thin with 91% iso alcohol. Even if you don't have an artists bone in your body, you can mix colors to get what you are after. I usually mix a single drop or less (using a toothpick) and let that dry. Acrylics typically dry darker so you don't want to go by the wet color.
Be sure and pay attention to your 'formula' and write it down. One trick is to buy a package of plastic spoons and paint the bowl with your final color. This gives you a good idea of highlights and such on the curves (handy for automobile modeling). Then use a permanent pen to write the mixture that resulted in your color on the handle. Always cover over that writing with clear cellophane tape, because no matter what they say, a permanent marker isn't permanent. ;) Me, I just use a note card. lol
Here are some examples of mine, though none are RR related. Just getting into that so there will be some in time I'm sure.
1956 Porsche 356 in Buttercup Yellow
The color on this fantasy livery Ford P68 is meant to match the vintage Dr. Pepper vending machines back in the day. I love me some Dr. Pepper! You can see where I mixed paint until I found the right color.