I am intending to use some spray paints on some of my structures I am building, these would be Walters Background buildings. I saw the article in MR for March that shows spray paints being used, my question is, should I avoid certain types of spray paints, will any of these eat at the plastic? Also what colors would you recommend on the brick buildings as some of these are a very dark red and I would like to lighten up the brick color. I am new at this so any information would be greatly appreciated.
Most of the average spray paints you find will be ok on the plastics. It's more foam that they eat. It's always good to do a little test on a piece that's not going to be used just in case. But I don't think I've every had any issues with normal Krylon and such eating or melting plastics.
Personally I like to use the water based acryllics you can get from the craft stores. Much much better color selection, they clean up with water, are easier to dry brush and dry flat/matte. And they are usually .89 on sale....If you have an airbrush you can spray them as well. Instead of white and only white for average spray paints they will have white, egg shell, off white, sort of white and dark white lol. Not really....but they will have a huge amount of color selection when compared to your spray paint isle.
Hope that helps some.Mike
Hi woodman,
The only spray paints that I can think of that might bother the plastic would be laquer based and it's unlikely that you would be using those.
Cheap automotive primer can give you a very nice brick colour. However, you want to make sure you do not get the type of primer that is designed to fill voids and scratches. It will fill in the detail on your walls.
I would suggest using several light coats as well. Let each coat dry to the touch before applying the next coat instead of trying to get full coverage all at once. You run the risk of getting runs, especially on inside corners if you put down too much paint at once. Make fairly quick passes and don't hold the can too close to the walls. You should be able to see through the first coat or two.
Have fun! Show us your work.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I use automotive primary (iron oxide red) on metal structures like gas tanks and bridges that are actually painted in protective primer colors.There's a ton of colors at lowes, home depot, or walmart. They all work. Just remember to go in light coats and take your time.If you are painting wood, paint with a base color of gray. Let it harden/outgas for a week so it's good and hard. Then spray a top coat of whatever wood color you like; Barn Red, Forest Green, White, Ocra Yellow. Wait about 1 to 2 hours then scratch it off with a scratch brush. It will take give it a very nice flat texture with some signs of the grey showing through underneath.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
I like spray primers from Rustoleum or Krylon. Pick up a few different browns and reds. It looks better if your brick buildings have a variety of shades of "brick" color.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
there is a danger in primers. They hide details. They are a "coarse" covering paint designed to adhere a surface. (Coarse paints work best for this)This coarseness of pigment is one of the reasons I avoid them for brick. It's also one of the reason hobby paints are so expensive. The pigments are extra ground and filtered for the small detail work.But that's just a personal preference.
Like the above are saying, I used to use the ''rattle cans'', never a issue, except the smell,[wife can't handle them]. Bought the color I needed , didn't even look at brand.
I now spray the 89 cent craft paint tru airbrush,,more colors, no smell
Last I checked, all Krylon spray paint is safe for plastic, even if it isn't specifically marketed for plastic.
Safe for plastic = one coat. One coat = no hiding of details.
- Douglas
I use Rustoleum without any problems. They have a color called "putty" that looks good for aged concrete.
Your best bet would be to go to the local hobby shop and pick up some spray cans of Tamiya paint. It's acrylic paint designed for models (rather than automobiles and furniture). The nozzles are designed to produce a very fine spray, and the paint is very smooth. Even if I'm going to airbrush something, I'll still use Tamiya primer gray from the spray can first.
I'll second the Tamiya spray acrylics if you are intimidated by an airbrush. Their nozzles lay down a very nice even coat. They aren't the cheapest, but a little goes a long way, and if you shop online you can find some retailers that have them on clearance for ~$3 a can, about half off.
Nevermind. I repeated myself. At least I'm consistent.
You could go back to Lance's article, and see what he used. I think most of the colors were the from Rust-OLeum camoflage and primer line.
Stay away from anything with laquer.
Mike.
My You Tube
Hello all,
The only caveat I can think of in using "rattle can" paints is that some don't adhere well to some plastics.
Krylon has developed the Fusion for Plastic® line of paints that adhere to all types of plastic.
These come in a variety of colors and finishes as well as metallic.
For a basic flat brick finish and boxcar red I have used Krylon ColorMaster Red Oxide Primer Ultra Flat (#51317) which also is packaged as Ruddy Brown Primer (#51317).
These both can mask or fill fine details so several light passes are better than one single heavy pass.
Another way you can lighten up the dark brick red is to use gray or white washes made from thinned airbrush paint applied with a broad brush and then partially wiped off with a paper towel.
This will also highlight the mortar lines of the brick.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
The ONLY problem I have ever had with spray paint eating plastic was when I used a can intended for use as touch-up paint on a real car. I bought it in an auto parts store and thought it was close to a good color for a model car.
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For buildings, the previous poster that suggested using Tamiya spray paints was right on. Nice color selection and a good quality can and nozzle.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I picked up a matte version of the clear coat I used after sanding and polishing my headlights.
Dying to try it out, dull cote $4.50 a can or $3.50 for a can 8 times the size!
I'll let you know when I give it a test run.
Solvent based paints may "eat plastic". Water based paints won't eat plastic. Today most paints are water based, but sovent based are still available. Solvent based paints may usually be sprayed on plastic safely if done in very light coats. Heavy coats are a sure way to disaster. Spraying mulitple light coats is always better than one heavy coat anyway.
The previous post have made some excellent recomendations for painting buildings and scenery. Of those mentioned only Tamiya paint is specifically designed for modelers. If you have a solvent based paint, it is best to test it on the same type plastic before commiting to its use.
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For painting railroad equipment (cars, locomotives, etc) there were paints designed for model railroaders.
A little history on model railroad paints:
The best known was Floquil paint which was developed in the pre-plastic era was an excellent paint designed for use on models that is unfortuntly discontinued. It was the go to brand for model railroaders with a huge selection of Railroad colors. It was a solvent based paint. Floquil could be sprayed on plastic safely in light coats, but priming with their product called Barrier was recomended for brush painting. However, I didn't like Barrier and sucessfully brush painted a lot of plastic without it .
Floquil was eventually forced to change their formula because of environmental regulations. The reformulated paint was at first generally not as good as the old formula. After a few years they did manage to come up with a formula so that the paint approached the old in quality.
The demise of the brand was probably due as to the publics turning away from solvent based pants, with their health problems and smell, as to environmental regs. However, with its demise there was much lament and a mad scramble to find replacement water based paints that could match it for its smooth thin coverage and colors.
Scalecoat, which was Floquil's water based brand, is still avalable, although the brand has changed hands several times. It has never had the wide variety of colors that Floquil had, and I was never happy with the results when using it. I believe the formula has been changed and it may be better now.
Today most of the model paint makes primairly cater to the military modelers, miniture figure painters and wargamers. They make a huge variety of colors many of which are suitable for model railroads.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
Scalecoat & Scalecoat II are both solvent based paints. They are not acrylic based. Scalecoat II is plastic compatible. Scalecoat is lacquer based, and Scalecoat II is enamel based.
Floquil's 'Polly Scale' paint was acrylic based. IIRC, their first attempt was 'Polly S' and it had issues. Polly Scale was the reformulated version...
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
jrbernier Floquil's 'Polly Scale' paint was acrylic based. IIRC, their first attempt was 'Polly S' and it had issues. Polly Scale was the reformulated version...
jrbernier Scalecoat & Scalecoat II are both solvent based paints. They are not acrylic based. Scalecoat II is plastic compatible. Scalecoat is lacquer based, and Scalecoat II is enamel based. Floquil's 'Polly Scale' paint was acrylic based. IIRC, their first attempt was 'Polly S' and it had issues. Polly Scale was the reformulated version... Jim
My poor memory. Thankyou for the correction.
DigitalGriffin there is a danger in primers. They hide details. They are a "coarse" covering paint designed to adhere a surface. (Coarse paints work best for this)This coarseness of pigment is one of the reasons I avoid them for brick. It's also one of the reason hobby paints are so expensive. The pigments are extra ground and filtered for the small detail work.But that's just a personal preference.
My experience with primers is that they do not fill up the brick mortar lines as long as you don't apply too thick a coat. After applying an undercoat of red oxide primer I will brush on craft paints of various red/brown shades to give my brick some variety. The other advantage of that is that brush painting the brick takes the uniformity out of the color which I think is also realistic. One thing I learned a number of years ago was that commercial brick structures would be built with a high quality decorative brick on the facade and a lower grade generic brick on the sides and back of the building which might very well not match the front. Since the lower quality brick would come from the same source in a town, I tend not to vary the shade for those and save the variety for the facades.