Hello,
Model Railroading is filled with many first. My first post, concept, track plan, and model. As pretty much a guppy however I'm a quick learner and have a background in film set design. I've attached several photos of my concept. Any thought and feedback will be appreciated.
It was important for me to design a layout that encompassed several important rules:
1. Must be 2)Kitten proof. Well, at least the wiring part. Still have to come up with some ideas as far as top cover. Any thoughts?
2. I have back pain and thus bending down was an issue. Thus creating something I can access while standing up.
3. Dimentions: Must fit by Dodge Journey Crossover SUV: 3.5'x6.5' trunk/backset dimension.
Welcome to the forum and the hobby. Unfortunately, this forum is not set up to allow the attachment of photos and other graphics. So they should be posted elsewhere on the Internet and then linked here.
There is a somewhat confusing (I think) official thread on this here:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/249194.aspx
(The first post is clear, but then the thread goes off on a lot of tangents.)
I'm sure folks will be able to help when they can see your images. It's also helpful to know scale, era, locale modeled, etc.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Hello, I recommend that you build your layout so that the average rail height is shoulder level or higher. This will help your back as you will stand up straight to operate your trains. It will also make it easier to work on wiring and keep out of reach of cats. It will also allow you to enjoy more of the fine details of your models. A lot of beginners think they have to build their layout table height. This isn’t so. Bookshelf height layouts offer far better viewing and make the layout seem larger.
I am not sure what the Dodge dimensions have to do with it. Are you planning on moving or are you building it elsewhere?
Welcome to the forum, your posts are moderated for the first 10 to make sure you don't have any Russian brides or magic elixirs to sell us. You can't fudge your way around the pictures, you have to follow the directions. Photobucket can be trying at times but it's free.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Lone Wolf and Santa FeHello, I recommend that you build your layout so that the average rail height is shoulder level or higher. This will help your back as you will stand up straight to operate your trains. It will also make it easier to work on wiring
With all due respect; I think thats too high,Good viewing, but be hard to reach anything.
I suggest, somewhere between belly and chest.
As to the Dodge,a2x6 modual, as many as you need/want
LION recomends mounting all of you wiring on the "sub-facia".
Lion uses stand-offs to install the finished fascia.
The board below is for a small 6 tracks terminal (2 thru tracks, 4 terminal tracks) All connections from the layout (Rails and all Tortoise contacts) are represented by nails on this board. Connections from the interlocking machine and track logic via the tortoise contacts are all made on this board.
LIONS do NOT go under the tables. Not that you could in this part of the layout since trains here rune on seven different levels.
Over by the tower panels are used for many things, this one includes signals, automation and the GRS interlocking machine, and is photographed with only the cables to the layout shown. Connections from the GRS machine and the Model board have yet to be installed here.
There are some of these cables as the appear on the layout end of the wire.
And this is the GRS Machine (Model 5) which controls trunouts and home signals on the layout.
That your layout is not as complicated as this (I think -- I only have 14 miles of tracks), I think I may have given you some ideas.
As for those others who think I post these pictures too often, Chill Out, have a Sticky Bun.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Wilmingtonian1. Must be 2)Kitten proof.
FAT CHANCE:
BroadwayLion LION recomends mounting all of you wiring on the "sub-facia".
I never thought about that. That is actually clever.
The problem with working under the layout isn't that you have to bend down, duck under, and crawl. Though those things are not much fun. It's that you have to bend down, duck under, and crawl, and then crane your neck and look up. Painful. Plus, what you're looking at is exactly backwards to what's on the surface. Right-hand, left-hand are reversed. You have to subtract measurements instead of adding them. Sawdust and whatnot falls on your face and in your eyes.
I think I'm gonna steal your idea.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
For a 3.5x6.5 space, N scale might be an option (you didn't mention what scale you were planning). Its going to be reaaaaaallly tight in HO.
Another option is to build two modules that "stack" on each other. That gives you a 3.5 x 13 space. For example imagine 2 3.5 x 6 ft sections, each with a plywood top and 1x4 frame. Set them on their ends, with the sceniced side facing each other, attach a 12-16" wide x 6 ft long piece of 1/4" plywood to the sides. You now have a "box" with the two layout sections that can be moved as a unit with a hand truck. If you will be moving a lot, then you will want to do stuff to make them lighter (fabricated frame and top made out of 1/4" plywood, no plaster scenery, etc).
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Welcome to the forums!
My original plan for a portable HO layout was to fit in our Windstar van. It died and was replaced by a Forrester, 4'x6' wouldn't fit in that. Layout currently sitting in the middle of the train room, making finishing the room and starting benchwork more than difficult.
Second plan was (is) using a hollow core door as a base for an N scale layout. Can even use two, cut so that each of the two pieces fit in the vehicle length, then put together as modules. That makes a longer layout than a single door, but does require a bit more work making the modules and rack to hold it.
Somewhere I have seen a design for a rack to fit in the back of vans, station wagons, etc. It was a frame for each side that fit over the wheelwells. and had two rails for the secrtions to slide in on. There were cross pieces that when in place pushed the side frames against the side of the vehicle. It would all come apart and store quite easily. Not sure where I saw it or noted where to find it again, it was really quite simple, when you saw the picture.
Good luck,
Richard
cowman Welcome to the forums! My original plan for a portable HO layout was to fit in our Windstar van. It died and was replaced by a Forrester, 4'x6' wouldn't fit in that. Layout currently sitting in the middle of the train room, making finishing the room and starting benchwork more than difficult. Second plan was (is) using a hollow core door as a base for an N scale layout. Can even use two, cut so that each of the two pieces fit in the vehicle length, then put together as modules. That makes a longer layout than a single door, but does require a bit more work making the modules and rack to hold it. Somewhere I have seen a design for a rack to fit in the back of vans, station wagons, etc. It was a frame for each side that fit over the wheelwells. and had two rails for the secrtions to slide in on. There were cross pieces that when in place pushed the side frames against the side of the vehicle. It would all come apart and store quite easily. Not sure where I saw it or noted where to find it again, it was really quite simple, when you saw the picture. Good luck, Richard
I am not surprised that a 4 x 6 will not fit in a forester. Seem as though we get more in my tiny Versa Note than my wifes forester.
Joe Staten Island West
ROBERT PETRICKSawdust and whatnot falls on your face and in your eyes.
Just wait for the hot solder to fall on your face.
Here is some concept photos. This is for N-Scale.