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Trying to figure out a lay out need some help

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  • Member since
    January 2017
  • 7 posts
Trying to figure out a lay out need some help
Posted by lad12der on Monday, January 30, 2017 8:39 AM

I am in the process of trying to design a lay out for my basement area.    The shape is sorta like  a large u. On one end the area is ideally 4 foot long and can be as wide as desired.  They the long run is roughly 24 foot long,  trying to make at least 4 ft wide.  The other end of the U will be about 8 ft long and can be as wide as desired.   Want to make a modern times layout.    Any suggestions on layout design?   I want to have a nice yard and a intermodel area.  but need a nice long run area as well.  I know this is a lot and Im sure i have not descibed this properly, but I am stuck.

Thank you in advance

Todd

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Northern CA Bay Area
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Posted by cuyama on Monday, January 30, 2017 10:10 AM

I can't follow your description, sorry; perhaps others can. A sketch would probably help. Showing walls and room entrances/obstructions is most helpful.

lad12der
They the long run is roughly 24 foot long,  trying to make at least 4 ft wide.

4-feet-wide will likely be too deep if against the wall. Most folks find that they can't reach more than 30" across a scenicked layout. 

Assuming HO, the end curves of the dogbone will be deeper than this for a modern-era layout, so you'll need access hatches if you can't walk all the way around.

Good luck with your layout.

  • Member since
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Posted by lad12der on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 7:10 AM

Im not sure how to put a picture on here.  Let me try to make it easier to understand. 

Take the shape of a box style U ,  Starting at one end of the table lenght can be 4ft long, and as wide as desired. (there will be access to 2 sides of this section. the end and a side)  then going down the bottom part of the U the run is 24 feet long, and can be aswide as 4 feet, put ideally 2 or 3ft wide.  On the other end of the U the lenght is 8 ft and can be as wide as desired, ( access on 2 sides.  The whole outside edge will be up against walls.    does the make any sense?  hopefully

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Posted by lad12der on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 7:28 AM

 photo 20170131_082504.jpg

  • Member since
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  • From: Northern CA Bay Area
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Posted by cuyama on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 11:42 AM

Thanks, the sketch helped. Unfortunately, if you'd like continuous run, the end curves are going to come out into the room quite a distance. Most folks would want to use at least 26" radius in HO (or broader) for modern-era equipment. 

If you can steal a little more depth in the room, there would be space for an interior aisle that you duckunder to get into. (A movable gate is also possible, though requires a bit of engineering.) Here’s a rough sketch.

It would be possible to go twice-around in a little more depth to increase the length of run. Others may have different ideas and suggestions.

Good luck with your layout.

Byron

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    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 11:51 AM

You are getting excellent advice.  For each of us in the hobby, we have to figure things out by trying different ideas, but those ideas should center around a basic concept.  You have the basic concept, but are learning that you will have to deal with some static physical realities, both in the space you have, and its configuration, and in the realities of how trains will run in a pleasing and reliable way for you.  What I mean is that many of us find reliability to be a problem, especially starting out.  We don't realize until later that the large locomotives and trailing cars need broad curves until later (as Byron has suggested just above), or that the hills and grades we envision are too steep for the locomotives to pull much more than themselves up them.  We end up compromising.  The trick is to do this very methodically with a list of what many of us call 'druthers' and 'givens'.  The givens are must-haves, very close to deal breakers or actual deal breakers, a line over which you can't be dragged.  The druthers are nice-to-haves if they can be had relatively easily or in a way so as not to complicate or corrupt your plan based on the givens...if that makes sense.

You have a defined space.  What can you build in that space that meets the basic criteria you have in mind...those six, eight, ten givens?  Byron says 26" curves.  Can you do with a couple inches less, or will you really have to build curves with a minimum of 30" radius?  How would you determine this?

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  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, January 31, 2017 11:04 PM

Hi Todd!

Just for clarification, what scale are you planning on? As Byron said, if you are modelling in HO things will get pretty tight in the right hand return loop. However, if you were to do the layout in N scale the 4 ft. limit on the right wall becomes a non issue.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by lad12der on Wednesday, February 1, 2017 7:05 PM

HO for the scale.   The right end will can be four feet out and as wide as needed.  

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Posted by lad12der on Wednesday, February 1, 2017 7:07 PM

Thank you for helping me!!  I'm gonna draw better idea for my table idea, and post that.  Maybe that will make things easier.  

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Posted by lad12der on Wednesday, February 1, 2017 7:10 PM

Thanks for the advice!!!  Luckly i dont plan to have much in the way of large hills etc,  maybe some slight inclines etc or elevated sections  but ideally i wanna keep this fairly flat.

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  • From: Canada
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Posted by wickman on Thursday, February 2, 2017 6:57 PM

The idea is to keep  the rail  itself pretty much  flat and raise and lower the terrain. 

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