Is there such a thing as a curved rerailer for HO?
Yes, but they are typically 18" radius.
Jim
Thanks. I am building a mountain as part of my pike and it has a 21" radius curve inside. I do have access to the inside of the mountain but I figured perhaps it would be a good place to put a rerailer. I guess an 18" radius rerailer won't work too well.
Being a bit of a scratch builder, I don't think it would be difficult to build a rerailer with the proper radius yourself with a piece of flex track and some styrene sheet. Start by anchoring the track at the correct radius and then just copy the design of an Atlas rerailer ramp. I don't think you would need to model the full length of the grade crossing part of the rerailer.
Another option might be to cut a rerailer into sections so you are only installing the ramp and a bit of the straight section between the rails of your flex track. The ramps aren't all that long so I don't think that the fact that they are in a different radius track would make a huge difference. Any gaps between the track and the ramp would need to be filled. You would have to test them rigorously of course before the tunnel goes overtop. They won't be pretty but if they are inside the tunnel who cares?
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Do you have a place you could put in one section of straight track? Alternative would be to have a rerailer at each entrance.
Good luck,
Richard
I think there use to be a product similar to the drawing below that could be inserted between the rails even if curved. It may not be difficult to cut something similar from plastic that is flexible enough for curved track.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Or you simply build your own guard rails.
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
There is for HOn3
My advice: Keep the rerailer as a tangent, intercepting the curve. I built a small angled platform that supports the end of the rerailer.
This is part of my staging area, so is used to set up trainsback there. Works great in an otherwise difficult spot.
The curve is 24" R.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Thanks everyone for your replies. I used the Snipping Tool, captured the image, and printed the image. Could not have been easier! I didn't know about the Snipping Tool before now, but I will be using it in the future.
starman Thanks everyone for your replies. I used the Snipping Tool, captured the image, and printed the image. Could not have been easier! I didn't know about the Snipping Tool before now, but I will be using it in the future.
gregc I think there use to be a product similar to the drawing below that could be inserted between the rails even if curved. It may not be difficult to cut something similar from plastic that is flexible enough for curved track.
The image below shows one design. I think this is a Jiffy-Railer, that is no longer available. The rerailer must leave a space for the wheel flanges. I believe the flange gap on an NMRA track gauge would be appropriate.
While I have not tried this (but need to), I would think that if you cut out the inner guides as shown in the patent drawing, it could be properly located between the rerails with 3 screw, in the middle and each end. I think a pattern could be made to cut one for a specific curve radius.
Thanks to all who replied and thank you Greg. I am going to try to build my own rerailer. If I am successful and will build several for my curved track.
Slight bump.
This would be a perfect candidate for someone with a 3D printer.
Making custom rerailers for specific applications... Hmmm, MicroMark, here I come. :)
MC
WP Lives
I haven't done a curved rerailer yet but I know I'll never find one in 28" radius so I imagine that day is coming.
I did want to drop one or two into straight sections coming out of multiple turnouts that irritated the pilots on some of my steamers, so I bought a pack of Atlas #519 Rerailers & took them apart. I traced them onto some 1/16 basswood, cut them out on the line and with a little positioning they now work fine. A couple of coats of tie paints & it's hard to tell they didn't come with the track.
Building a rerailer for any radius from 12 inches to infinity (aka tangent track) is a very straightforward bit of scratchbuilding. First, look at the geometry of a commercial rerailer. Then duplicate it, using rail, styrene, ground goop, plaster, sheet brass or whatever other material will yield the desired physical shape.
The same physical geometry works for the prototype, too. While railfanning the Hachiko-sen north of Yokota Air Base I came upon the evidence. Tie damage started at a low, loose rail joint, extended several hundred meters, then disappeared at a little one-lane grade crossing with guard rails inside the running rails and solidly compacted slopes outside. Marks on the slope, none on the opposite side of the concrete pavement. It's entirely possible that the freight's crew never knew it happened.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with home brew rerailers)
I will endorse Chuck's idea of scratching a rerailer. Though better still is to have such fine trackwork and rolling stock that you don't need any. And, yes, it can be done.
Anyway, the plain ole Atlas rerailer was made from styrene. Of which Evergreen sells in numerous dimensions. If I wanted one, I would build one. Or more.
It's gotta be one of the easiest scratchbuilding projects ever. And, if you need one, one of the most rewarding.
Ed