ah ya i used osb board. i found it easy to join the right sections by using the green edges. so all my outer ends or edges have green around it and insides have cuts edges. and for middle green edges around. thanks the bracing really help and make it strong. now i going to have legs install like that and 2 screws on outside frame so if i make all the legs exactly the same size then the table would be leveled to point.
Looking good! The OSB is fine. It will make a good base structure for foam, track bed, whatever. Diagonal bracing on the legs will make it nice and sturdy, especially if you have to put your weight on it to access that large area.
As you found out, getting a scew started in OSB can be a challange. Drilling a pilot hole is the way to go.
Mike.
My You Tube
so over weekend i took down my old layout, what a job and ahalf WOW lol. i saved all the legs and few of the 2x6s. some have glue and old osb on it. and few of the old osb bored. i found out 31 out of 46 where 2 feet tall and rest was little under 2 feet but i'll find good use for them on my new taple top. and i clean out the area. alot of cobwebs lol then move my table to basement. love the new tabletop so much lighter to move and stuff. still have to add legs to it.
so i now working on the legs for my table now i rip up the long 2x6 in half so there 2x3ish i will cut to 32inchs, and i have lot of osb bored from my old tabletop. if i rip the osb bored to 4 inchs can they work for bracing the legs? now for length of the legs i will make it 32inchs. easy to craw under witch means some of the 2x4 that are 2ft i will add 8 inches using left over 2x4s that are under 2ft. here what i was thinking for bracing idea.
1x4's would be better, but the OSB should be alright. You might want to ad a few extra diagonal braces to keep the table from wobbling or shaking.
Depending on how flat your floor is, you might have to ad shims under some of the legs. If you do, just spread a small amount of caulk or glue on the shim, then drive it under the leg. This will keep the shims in place.
so over the weekend i added legs to my table, 2x3 i cut up from 2x6s and i got to say it very strong. i walked ontop of it many times testing the the build and i didn't add bracing yet. there wabbel but little bit. now i set up temperary train set using e-z track and i used bachmann empire builder and royal gorge train cars these cars uncouple like crazy on my old layout so i put them away for few years. but on my new table they didn't uncouple once. i was very very impressed. and i haven't even added the foam board it on osb bored. now i did try even out legs best i can cause few legs are milameter of the carpet but let you said i add shimes to thouse legs later on. but ya it working out extremely well. also i just pick up bowser second run of sd40-2 cp rail beaver logo and it awesome and it come with class lights.
now i thinking about noise dampering foam idea i been hearing latey but since i be using e-z track on my layout i don't know if it worth it it might not work since track is on pastic roadbed.
https://goo.gl/photos/Fa7XcbJ1M8MhvFgr7update i made some changes to tabletop like i remove the 2x4s in middle and exstened the table in one way about 2 inches. it look alot better and i donno if you can see it in photos.
Guys
We are building train layouts not something that will support a house (50 tons). That is the reason 2x4 studs are put on 16" centers (or 2x6 on 24" centers) in wall construction.
Cut your 2x4 into two 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" pieces. I use 2x2 to support an open grid layout 48" (could be 50+") above the floor. What is important is to brace the legs so they are stable. Makes for easier access under the layout using a roll-about office chair. These legs support 12 foot long pine L-girder (1-1/2" x 3-1/2)
I also have open grid 2'x6' modules using 4" strips of 1/2" thick birch plywood [from HD] with plywood cross joists 24" centers. For portabulity I use 1"x1"x 40" aluminum legs and 1/4"x1" aluminum braces.
Ed