Hi all,
I'm starting my own thread to document the construction of my N-scale layout based on the Howard Terminal trackplan by Byron Henderson/cuyama.
The original track plan is discussed here: http://www.layoutvision.com/gallery/id52.html
To be specific, the track plan I'm following is this one:
I'm modifying it somewhat to fit in my space (~ 11' x 17'). Specifically, the staging track will be gone and the 3' wide leg of the L is only 2 1/2 feet. The yard tracks will be more parallel with the edge of the benchwork. I will probably wrap the benchwork around, making a U and include staging or just a main line down the opposite wall.
Today I did more than I had planned to and completed all of the benchwork that I plan on for the first phase.
As you can tell, it's a pretty dark corner so before I go much farther, I need to address lighting. Any suggestions? I was watching some videos on Model Railroader Video Plus and was thinking of following David Popp's example of using track lighting, mostly because it looked really easy to install.
In addition to lighting, the next step is to patch the joint in the hardboard for a nice, smooth, contiguous backdrop.
Any comments and/or suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks!
-Matthew
Nice start!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
It's great to see a variation of that track plan being built. If it were my layout, I would certainly do what I could to include staging, as I think it gives the rest of the layout a reason to exist.
Good luck with it and I look forward to seeing your progress.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Matthew
-matthewAs you can tell, it's a pretty dark corner so before I go much farther, I need to address lighting. Any suggestions?
There have been some interesting developments in LED lighting recently. LEDs use far less power than a comparable halogen light and they don't generate huge amounts of heat like halogens do. You can get some really effective LED spotlights for use in track lighting, but you have to have enough lights to avoid dark spots between them. More even light distribution can be achieved with LED strip lighting, but the relatively cheap LED strip lighting that comes in rolls requires 12 volt power supplies which can be cumbersome to set up if you need a lot of lighting. Possibly the best and easiest option is the recently released LED tubes. They look just like fluorescent tubes but use LEDs as the light source. They are reasonably priced and the biggest advantage is that they give you a continuous strip of bright light. They are also easy to install (just the same as a fluorescent fixture) and they work off of 120 volts so you don't have to mess with low voltage power supplies. You can buy the LED tubes separately and install them in converted fluorescent fixtures or you can buy them as complete fixtures, tubes and all. One thing to note is that the LED fixtures won't fade your scenery like fluorescents will. This example has a colour of 4000K which is a bit on the 'warm' white side but would be pretty good for modelling:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-White-LED-Flushmount-Wraparound-Light-FMLWL-48-840/205570126
You can spend about the same amount on a single track light head and you would need two or three heads to get the same light coverage, plus the cost of the track.
Thanks! This is pretty much "Phase 1". Phase 2 is going to be extending the through-track at the bottom (of the image) out to some industries and maybe a town. Phase 3 will be to go to the other way to other towns, staging, etc.
While I work out my lighting, I will probably extend the benchwork around that corner for temporary staging track.
hon30critter Matthew -matthew As you can tell, it's a pretty dark corner so before I go much farther, I need to address lighting. Any suggestions? There have been some interesting developments in LED lighting recently. LEDs use far less power than a comparable halogen light and they don't generate huge amounts of heat like halogens do. You can get some really effective LED spotlights for use in track lighting, but you have to have enough lights to avoid dark spots between them. More even light distribution can be achieved with LED strip lighting, but the relatively cheap LED strip lighting that comes in rolls requires 12 volt power supplies which can be cumbersome to set up if you need a lot of lighting. Possibly the best and easiest option is the recently released LED tubes. They look just like fluorescent tubes but use LEDs as the light source. They are reasonably priced and the biggest advantage is that they give you a continuous strip of bright light. They are also easy to install (just the same as a fluorescent fixture) and they work off of 120 volts so you don't have to mess with low voltage power supplies. You can buy the LED tubes separately and install them in converted fluorescent fixtures or you can buy them as complete fixtures, tubes and all. One thing to note is that the LED fixtures won't fade your scenery like fluorescents will. This example has a colour of 4000K which is a bit on the 'warm' white side but would be pretty good for modelling: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-White-LED-Flushmount-Wraparound-Light-FMLWL-48-840/205570126 You can spend about the same amount on a single track light head and you would need two or three heads to get the same light coverage, plus the cost of the track. Dave
-matthew As you can tell, it's a pretty dark corner so before I go much farther, I need to address lighting. Any suggestions?
Thanks! Looks like a good solution.
Here's a photo of a Howard Terminal steam switcher.
The terminal is behind the photographer. Back in the seventies, I used to hang out just about under the bridge/trestle, over on the left. I photographed whatever came by on the SP main that looked interesting. And the WP, too, for that matter.
Hence, on occasion, I could look to my right and see this little guy coming out of the terminal:
Ed
7j43k Here's a photo of a Howard Terminal steam switcher. The terminal is behind the photographer. Back in the seventies, I used to hang out just about under the bridge/trestle, over on the left. I photographed whatever came by on the SP main that looked interesting. And the WP, too, for that matter. Hence, on occasion, I could look to my right and see this little guy coming out of the terminal: Ed
Thanks for sharing, that's really cool!
I've been fairly productive this past week. During the week, I patched the joint between the two sections of hardboard.
This weekend, I painted the backdrop. I'm not sure if I want it to extend to the ceiling; with N-scale it's not as if anyone will really look up a lot.
I also built some more benchwork to handle the staging tracks that I took out of the original layout. The layout (sub)roadbed is going to be 2" foam board. I have it laying around from a home project I never did (and never will do!) so I may as well use it. I didn't use it for the staging yard because I wanted to keep it as high as possible since I'll be working at that table.
I mounted an LED under-cabinet light under the benchwork. It's not as bright as I would have hoped but it should do the job.
Next up: cutting the foam and transferring the track plan. And hopefully straightening up a bit... I can't find *anything* on that table!
I'm enjoying following your progress as I'm a "fan" of cuyama's design work
My layout is HO, but I encourage you to explore two things I've used and have been pleased with for 7 years so far:
Track Lighting. Personally I have to have aimable/ adjustable lighting due to a light sensetivity/migraine proclivity.
BUT, even for "normal" folks, sometimes it's nice to be able to move that bulb just a little out of your immediate line of sight slightly because you're tired from a long day job work day, or you'd simply like to better light some work you're doing on the layout temporarily. It can be marvelously handy in that way. A dimmer is something to consider for down the road/night scenes.
I have not yet found an LED bulb that I've liked. I'm still using flurescent spiral bulbs w/ 5000k "daylight" light. Eventually I may HAVE to go to LEDs so I'll keep checking them out.
Also very little to almost no heat in the room from them. (By the way for other migraine sufferers, for some reason the spiral bulbs don't occilate visually (for us) and trigger headaches like the tube versions do).
Also, I would encourage you to go to the ceiling with your backdrop if your layout's location is permanent and it is in a train room where the layout IS the room so to speak. My room is small and narrow but as it has no windows and the benchwork is reasonably high for eye level viewing, the big sky really draws people into my little world from the moment they come into the room.
I'm also a big proponent of coved/curved backdrop corners, but that is space dependent and you might not have room for that.
Just some more feedback and hope it's helpful while mulling over your choices.
Looking forward to seeing how things progress!
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Capt. Grimek I'm enjoying following your progress as I'm a "fan" of cuyama's design work My layout is HO, but I encourage you to explore two things I've used and have been pleased with for 7 years so far: Track Lighting. Personally I have to have aimable/ adjustable lighting due to a light sensetivity/migraine proclivity. BUT, even for "normal" folks, sometimes it's nice to be able to move that bulb just a little out of your immediate line of sight slightly because you're tired from a long day job work day, or you'd simply like to better light some work you're doing on the layout temporarily. It can be marvelously handy in that way. A dimmer is something to consider for down the road/night scenes. I have not yet found an LED bulb that I've liked. I'm still using flurescent spiral bulbs w/ 5000k "daylight" light. Eventually I may HAVE to go to LEDs so I'll keep checking them out. Also very little to almost no heat in the room from them. (By the way for other migraine sufferers, for some reason the spiral bulbs don't occilate visually (for us) and trigger headaches like the tube versions do). Also, I would encourage you to go to the ceiling with your backdrop if your layout's location is permanent and it is in a train room where the layout IS the room so to speak. My room is small and narrow but as it has no windows and the benchwork is reasonably high for eye level viewing, the big sky really draws people into my little world from the moment they come into the room. I'm also a big proponent of coved/curved backdrop corners, but that is space dependent and you might not have room for that. Just some more feedback and hope it's helpful while mulling over your choices. Looking forward to seeing how things progress!
I definitely want to improve the lighting; the room has one, very insufficient ceiling light. I looked at some options at Lowes this weekend. I'm still mulling my options over.
After looking at the pictures and cringing over the state of the walls behind the backdrop, I agree that I should go higher.
What material do you use for curved backdrops? The hardboard isn't very flexible.
matthew, sorry I didn't ge back here for a few days... I used 1/8" masonite/hardboard from Lowes Hardware. It's bee a traditional material for 50+ years, really cheap and flexible. Coving (curving) the room corners was dead easy. The hardboard bent to a 10-13 degree radius (I think we ended up with that)-with the back of the curve about 4 to 5" from the room's corners. So you do lose a bit of real estate, but I think (and most guest have commented) that it is maybe- the single most effective thing to "remove" the room more when visitors (and you) lst enter the room. THAT SAID, two common methods for bending the curves is to soak the back side with a damp to slightly wet sponge repeately while bending or using a table saw to put shallow curfs (slits) into the back and it bends supe easy, but that's tricky business with 1/8" material.
I'm sure it's a person specific "thing" but I just hate room corners on a layout. Other folks, it couldn't concern them less or they don't even "notice" their corners. Taking the backdrop to the ceiling is the next best thing with or without the coving.
I did try to find linoleum sheets/rolls for my backdrop originally but in my area it was impossible and boy did I try! So with hardboard some spackling/sanding, etc. will be necessary to fill joints and screw holes but it's simple and quick.
In a basement where there is some humidity or "vastly" different temperatures on the backside (outside wall), etc. I would recommend painting both sides with a good primer paint like Kills (Killz)? I did this even upstairs in my in the house train room. Others may have some other tips or check the post archives.
Sorry if I'm preaching the old news/obvious too much, but wasn't sure of your experience/time in the hobby and other beginners are reading along... Cheers.
Oops, one more idea. It looks like coved corners are not likely with your bench/room as is, but, wondered if it might be possible to move whatever sections have room corners out from the wall about 5" or so to allow the coving. You could always use the space for a staging track or transfers, etc. It's hard to tell how much aisle space and/or room floor space you have available to consider that and if you think the coved corners will be worth the trouble.
Capt. Grimek matthew, sorry I didn't ge back here for a few days... I used 1/8" masonite/hardboard from Lowes Hardware. It's bee a traditional material for 50+ years, really cheap and flexible. Coving (curving) the room corners was dead easy. The hardboard bent to a 10-13 degree radius (I think we ended up with that)-with the back of the curve about 4 to 5" from the room's corners. So you do lose a bit of real estate, but I think (and most guest have commented) that it is maybe- the single most effective thing to "remove" the room more when visitors (and you) lst enter the room. THAT SAID, two common methods for bending the curves is to soak the back side with a damp to slightly wet sponge repeately while bending or using a table saw to put shallow curfs (slits) into the back and it bends supe easy, but that's tricky business with 1/8" material.
Thanks! I was hoping you knew of something easier to work with than hardboard. I may try to add a curved backdrop to one corner but the other (already against the wall) is what it is.
As for progress... I've been cutting foamboard to fit on the benchwork. I'm using an old kitchen knife to keep the foam dust to a mininum. However, it's also very tedious so I only do a piece or two at a time.
Got a couple Walther's kits as well but I need some paint to detail/weather internal parts before assembly.
You've probably already done searches on the forum but sheet metal, large sheets of styrene from plastic supply houses, linoleum flooring, formica, rough side out/painted, etc. are other materials people use. There may be more.
I've got one last (I think ;-) idea for your corner. You could use a U shaped half pipe or furniture molding, etc. with the edges of your two right angled sheets glued to either side to create a much narrower "mini" cove if you think it'll make or break your scene or want to play around with the idea with a chunk of pvc pipe.
It doesn't fool anyone that there's a room corner there but even the smallest of rounding seems to fool the "sky gazing" eye/psyche some. Anyway, I don't mean to come off as the corner hater assoc. President ;-) Without corners the train room will fall down! I'll bow out now. Cheers.
I've been making slow progress -- a little bit every day. I got the foamboard cut to fit the benchwork, added fascia for most of the benchwork and added backdrop around the corner and behind what will be the staging yard (the plywood top section.)
I had hoped to get some brown paint today but events transpired against me.