Thinking of getting an American Model builders kit( Mittco-Hornohl Mfg. Co). It would be for a friend with somewhat limited experience in kit building. The description says it is "tab and peel and stick construction". I assume this is a paper or cardboard kit, but I'm not sure. any information anyone has would be helpful. Don't want to get a complicated kit for him.
Some of their kit descriptions say 3 ply plywood or basswood. I was looking at these recently but I'm skeptical that stick on windows would look that good.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Here's pic of a couple of AMB kits I built. My Tefft depot is the Cumbres Pass Station kit.
This is a tower I built from another.
Both are probably 10 years old and the peel and stick has held up well. In fact, my elbow smacks the tower every once in awhile if I'm not careful, so I've tested that one pretty hard. I'd say they are durable.
Assembly requires a somewhat steady hand and ability to follow simple directions, but things fit well and easily if you do. Both were very sastisfying builds and look great.
There is some paper/cardboard, but most is very nice laser-cut wood.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
BigDaddyI was looking at these recently but I'm skeptical that stick on windows would look that good.
The stick-on windows I've used look great. They have a frame part and a "glass" part, and typically are placed in front of a cut opening on the wall, so they are fully 3-dimensional. I'd post some pictures but unfortunately my photo hosting site seems to be down right now.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
thanks for the information guys. Sounds like he may be able to do it.
floridaflyerI assume this is a paper or cardboard kit, but I'm not sure. any information anyone has would be helpful. Don't want to get a complicated kit for him.
Most of these are a combination of plywood and milled sheet wood. All of them require at least some skill working with wood and adhesives that are usable with wood, such as yellow glues. They require painting, but the use of separate parts for windows and trim means you can paint before assembly.
The "peel and stick" part of assembly is typically reserved for windows, doors and roofs. Because the window and door components are finely cut from micro plywood, the process helps eliminate excess glue from marring the parts. A typical double-hung window may consist of several parts: two sashes, a frame, and maybe a sill. Each sash may have a separate sheet of clear plastic for "glass."
Here's the kit you selected from http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm . As these structures go, it looks like one of the simpler offerings. Provided your friend is comfortable with the idea of working with a kit, and following the instructions throroughly, he should be fine.
The AMB kits build into nice structures. If you're used to painting plastic kits, the work required may be no more involved than building a plastic structure. The tab and slot assembly helps keep the parts aligned, so in some ways they may even be easier than plastic.
Rob Spangler
MisterBeasley BigDaddy I was looking at these recently but I'm skeptical that stick on windows would look that good. The stick-on windows I've used look great. They have a frame part and a "glass" part, and typically are placed in front of a cut opening on the wall, so they are fully 3-dimensional. I'd post some pictures but unfortunately my photo hosting site seems to be down right now.
BigDaddy I was looking at these recently but I'm skeptical that stick on windows would look that good.
The above is a laser cut wood kit from Lake Junction Models. The windows and doors are all peel and stick assembly, along with the trim and shingles. The windows aren't "stick on" in the sense that they just stick to the outside of the building. They are layers of precision cut material that come with adhesive backing, and are built up into a 3-D assembly with realistic depth.
Here's the shell of the above depot before the windows were installed. The windows fit inside the openings and against the back of the exterior trim. This view shows the tab and slot construction of the walls.
Thanks, while they looked 3-D, somehow I could only imagine a stick on photo of a window.
Henry:
There are some all-paper/cardstock kits which use photographs of the details. To get depth you basically stick a photograph over a photograph. They are very popular in England. Personally I don't like them at all.
AMB is not using that method. You are building the windows almost the same way you would assemble a real window and the results are very realistic.
A couple of hints:
Someone mentioned that to get the best results you should paint the individual pieces while they are still attached to the carrier sheets. That applies to everything where you want to have a different colour from the piece next to it.
You should prime the wood both sides with cheap automotive spray primer, not acrylic primer. The water in acrylic paints will likely cause the wood to warp if it is applied to bare wood.
You may have to apply several coats of colour to hide the laser cut marks. You can use expensive inexpensive (thanks to Henry for correcting my dyslexia) craft store acrylics for the colour but the wood has to be primed and braced first.
The kit should offer some form of internal bracing to keep the walls straight. Don't omit it. Don't be afraid to add more.
If you want more hints on how to do the kit, post your request here.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks Dave, didn't you mean inexpensive craft store acrylics?
BigDaddyDave, didn't you mean inexpensive craft store acrylics?
Duh,...yup! That thar's what I meant Senior's moment.
Thanks