Testors Model putty

[wdcrvr]

Every time I try to use testors model putty I get a lot of clear liquid instead of the putty.  How do I get this to come out as putty and not the liquid mess I am getting?  Is there a better product to use for filling gaps and holes in styrene model parts?  Maybe something I have heard of called Squadron Putty?  Please help.  I am tired of messing with this product.

thanks

wdcrvr

[7j43k]

I tried Testors a long time ago and didn't like it.  Back then, it was kind of "grainy".

I strongly recommend using something like 3M Acryl-Blue Glazing Putty, obtainable at auto body supply houses.  You get 21 ounces, which will last both your and your kid's lifetimes.  It's very "friendly".  Meaning that it bonds well and sands nicely.  It DOES shrink.  All solvent based putties will.

I've heard of other brands that work just as well.  This was just the brand they handed me when I asked for spotting putty.    

 

Ed

[RR_Mel]

I’ve had the same problem with Testors, the gooey goes away after you use about 25% of the tube.  I’ve had the reverse happen using Squadron Putty, about the first 15% was too dry to stick.  I mixed the gooey with the dry and that worked out very good.  If the putty is too dry mix some Testors Plastic Cement with it.

 

Once I got past the bad putty in both then they worked OK.  I find that the Testors works better than Squadron on plastic kitbashing.  To me Testors appears to adhere better to plastic locomotive shells (Rivarossi & Model Power).

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[hon30critter]

I have used standard automotive glazing putty, Squadron green putty and Tamiya's white filler. I haven't tried the Squadron white putty.

The Squadron green putty was the worst of the bunch. It doesn't stick well to the surface being repaired but it sticks just fine to the artist's spatula that I use to apply it. You can put it one with the first stroke but when you make a second stroke to smooth it out it pulls back off the surface. It has done that since the tube was new, so I don't believe the age of the product is an issue but I could be wrong. I have only had experience with one tube. I apply a bit of styrene solvent cement to the putty after it is first applied and that cures the issue.

The Tamiya goes on just fine but it does shrink enough that a second or sometimes a third application is required even on very fine joints. 

The automotive glazing putty has worked the best for me with a caveat. The solvents are very strong. If you put a huge blob of the stuff on styrene it will soften the styrene, so if you have a large void to fill it is best done in thinner layers. Automotive glazing putty comes in a rather large tube, i.e. enough for 10 lifetimes. It will stiffen up over time but styrene solvent glue will make it moist enough to work with.

All three sand down just fine. The Tamiya seems to be the hardest of the bunch.

If I was buying a new supply today I would buy the automotive glazing putty.

Dave

[gmpullman]

hon30critter

If I was buying a new supply today I would buy the automotive glazing putty.

Ditto 

I have tried all the brands geared toward modelers. They're OK and I'll use them sparingly. But for work that I want the best results with I reach for the automotive spot putty.

I'm using a tube of Sherwin Williams Ultra-Fill 2749 Spot Putty I bought at an auto body supply shop back in 1987! I used some just the other day and it spread like soft cream-cheese and cured nice and smooth. IIRC it is a 10 or 12 ounce tube.

Spread it thin and try to get it smooth with the first pass, then don't mess with it until it cures. 

Good Luck, Ed

[zstripe]

Little tip to using those spot puttys that are in the metal tube. When You get liquid coming out, put the cap back on tightly and knead the tube, starting at the very bottom where the seam is and work your way about to the top, with Your thumb and forefinger. Do that a couple times and it should be good to go. That's why the Sqaudron appears to come out dry, need's kneading of the tube. Been using that particular brand for quite a few yrs. and never had any problem's with it, on plastic's, resin's, even Pewter and some white metal castings, which if it is a deep gouge, like there are in some of the castings, I prefer to use Evercoat Glazing spot putty.....also been using that for yr's. on many real trucks/classic cars. Just remember to not put more than a 1/8'' minimun on anything. Most of those putty's contain Toluene and that is what separates when lying around. Also remember that Toluene is hazardous to Your health, so be safety wise when using a large amount.

Also helps a lot, if You sand the area around where You want the putty to be...sticks way better..unless You are putting it over primer...which is what it is made for.

I'm not going to tell You how much Glazing putty, is in the finish of My 49' Ford.

Take Care! 

Frank

[n2mopac]

The answer to your putty problem is chemical separation. You don't need to throw it away. Just leave the cap on and squeeze the tube back and forth for a minute or so before you use it. I would still squeeze the first bit out on a paper towel to make sure, but this should solve the problem.

Ron