Switches

[nscsx]

i have a really simple small layout"Simplicity and Great plains." I have the Atlas snap switch machines now but I was thinking of going with basic ground throws. What do you all think? I've seen some large layouts with all manual ground throughs. 

[joe323]

The SIW uses all caboose indutries ground throws and Atlas Snap Track and it works quite well on a small switching layout but on a larger layout walking around to manull switch might get tiresome. Even on the SIW I drilled holes for tourtoise machines if I want to in the future.

I have no experience with the Atlas machines so I cannot comment on their reliability but the switches themselves are good.

You can shorten the throw bars on the snap switches and drill your own holes as the throw bars are way too long.  Also the throw bars are reversable which may help in some areas

[nscsx]

Hello, can you show a close up photo of how much you shortened your throw bar. I have a throw bar on a wye that needs to be turned around to the other side. I fiddled with it before; trying to get it off but I was afraid I would break the turnout. 

[Ron High]

I have used these throws and I like the way they work. After the first 2 installs I feel I learned the thing you have to do to easily install them I like them so much that I have ordered more.

http://humpyard.com/

Ron High

[joe323]

nscsx

Hello, can you show a close up photo of how much you shortened your throw bar. I have a throw bar on a wye that needs to be turned around to the other side. I fiddled with it before; trying to get it off but I was afraid I would break the turnout. 

I will what I can do I have found posting photos here to be a pain.  You should first remove the Atlas machine  this exposes the throwbar.  There is a little handle at the end which if you clip off with a sprue cutter exposing 2 holes.  Cut the bar with the nipper close to the inside hole but not so close as to damage it.  The pin from the throw will fit in this hole and you can mount from there.  If you want to cut the throw bar shorter you can drill a new hole closer to the track with a pinvise and cut the excess off. 

Also you can reverse the throw bar by gently prying the frog up with a small screwdriver at the rivets this frees the bar so you can pull it out and slide it back in on the other side of the track.  Make sure the rivets go back in the holes.

I use no 202 sprung ground throws.  I paint the little square on the edge of the lever.  Green is the though (straight) direction red is the divergent (curved) direction.  SIW rules require me to return all throws to the green side at the end of an operating seesion.

 

 

 

[SouthPenn]

Ron High

I have used these throws and I like the way they work. After the first 2 installs I feel I learned the thing you have to do to easily install them I like them so much that I have ordered more.

http://humpyard.com/

Ron High

Awesome throws Ron!

[BroadwayLion]

ROAR!

[tomikawaTT]

If you are willing to have a spider web of fishing line down where the sun doesn't shine you can use all hand throws, even at preposterous distances.  I use the fishing line to throw switches that only need to be operated from one place - even if the place is four feet from the points being moved.

My ground throw of choice is a cheap electrical slide switch, mounted in a niche in the fascia.  Normally (points set to the preferred route) the handle of the slide switch is away from the aisleway and the points are held in place by a hanging weight - no tension on the line from points to slide switch.  Pulling the slide switch toward the aisle tensions the line, raises the counterweight and moves the points to the 'reverse' position.  Since the counterweight moves the points to the normal position there's no need for a rigid connection - no pushing on a rope.

I connect my twin-coil KTM and Rix machines the same way, mounting them close to the aisle so I keep all of the electrical connections along the fascia.  No spelunking under the table with a hot soldering tool...

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[JimL]

 http://humpyard.com/

 

Ron High .... those are cool!!

Could you explain a bit .... what you learned after doing the first two installs?

[Ron High]

Jim sorry for the slow response I started to type my response but got distracted by other things .So here are some of my findings on installing these throws

 

 

 

I used a centered hole right under the rivet in the throw bar ½ inch in diameter?

I did one small yard with 8 switches using the center of the throw bar rivet this area was on standard 1 inch pine board all Shinohara switches purchased long before DCC was a dream I run a DC only layout. I mention this in case anyone asks I don’t think it would make a difference as far as how the throws work.

The method I used to mount the throws is 2 parallel   pine boards 1 and ¼ inches apart.  

  I mounted these on wood brackets, with a slope extending out from the layout bench work, Think of a holder for a cab power pack assembly. When you mount these you should think about some #2 Brass washers under the #2 brass wood screws .I can’t recall if these are supplied or not .You need these to clamp the throws.

This method is like the mounting that would represent a row of Armstrong levers in a tower.

I located this whole assembly across from the yard near most of the switches. Six feet of throw cable made up of   .026 stainless steel in a Teflon sleeve, this functions like choke rod cable but is much smaller. I used lengths from 1 and ½ feet to 3 feet long in this yard. For longer runs you may need a clamp near the throws and another, located   one or two inches from the hole under the switch. The clamp is mounted perpendicular to the switch you are going to leave a small amount of Teflon, about ¼ inch. Beyond this clamp estimate where the wire needs to be bent at a right angle to reach up through the rivet leave an inch or so extending up through the rivet until all adjustments are done. On extra long runs or sharper turns extra clamps may be needed. Save any left over cable for use with switch machines.

 You can approach the switches from either side of the track. Keep in mind those switches where the throw cable come from the side away from you will move in the opposite direction from those where cable comes from the side near you so this group of eight throws has some moving in different directions.

 In another yard I did a couple of other methods like some of the Humpyard examples. Unfortunately do to a home renovation I had to remove this yard  because it was in front of some equipment . When I rebuild I will make it removable but I will be using these throws. The Humpyard site has a lot of photos showing different examples of mounting and connections.

 Tools and items you need

1 Wire cutters that are made to cut stainless steel, not your rail nippers you will damage them

 2 Long nose pliers

 3 Long screw drivers for #2 wood screws   to make it easier to screw clamps while looking up under the bench work.

 4 Small bits for starter holes for #2 wood screws.

5 Extra brass #2 wood screws and #2 brass washers

 

Ron High

If I come up with anymore items I will post or you can post questions.