After settling in to a new home, I face the delightful picture of fresh canvas (as the artist would say) or rather an unfinished garage (bare studs, no drywall, just outer walls, a roof with bare rafters and a garage door). Lots of potential here.
To recap some prior threads, I have 3 modules built up over the past few years (river module, town outskirts, oil dealership). I plan to build a corner module to form an L-shaped layout along the back wall of the garage.
I am aware of the limitations and risks of a garage layout and am working on steps to minimize such dust and other contaminants. Also, this is the ONLY place to build a layout as in the house is impractical for HO scale (N or Z at a later date is only an unrealized idea that isn't on the table right now).
As the modules have been freestanding, and as this has been my "first, second, and third" layout if you consider the fact that my module building skills have gotten better the more I have built, I want to try cantilevered benchwork for the corner piece. I'm fine with it being attached to the wall and don't plan to move for a while but will take moving into consideration (as in the top being easily detatched from the wall and cantilevered "legs").
What have you tried or heard of regarding cantilevered benchwork? Better to go L-girder or okay with box frame? One goal with my desire for cantilevered benchwork is being able to store things underneath.
Any advice is helpful as I prefer to plan things out, explore options, and take in to account advice, tips, and what to avoid from others. Your thoughts and opinions are most welcome with me. I keep tabs on my threads often so you can expect replies.
As long as the face is not too large (mine is less than two feet), you can attach to back wall only with the box if you attach a module to both sides. My modules are 4' at the back along both sides.
Before starting any layout construction, finish the space as suits your situation. This includes any needed wiring, insulation, and drywall, and be sure to also add a ceiling. Plan for good lighting over the layout, and, if necessary, separate from the general area lighting.
If you're still going to use the space as a garage, some compromises will be required. If not, I'd suggest building a wall inside the garage door, making it as a separate part of any other interior improvements. This will make the entire space more suited to a layout, but still allow easy removal should you wish to move.
My layout is open grid made from good quality 1"x2" and 1"x4", but it's supported by benchwork made from 2"x4", 2"x6" and 4"x4" lumber left over after building my house. I used more of the same to create a horizontal framework about 6" above the basement floor, then covered much of that with 3/8" plywood, creating a very sturdy shelf useful for storing all kinds of household stuff...
...and also used some 1"x12" to build shelving beneath my staging yards for rolling stock storage:
After I finally got around to adding a long-planned partial second level to the layout, I added sliding or lift-off doors, made from the same Masonite as the layout fascia, to hide the junk:
When the wiring for the upper level is completed, I'll paint the fascia. All of the under-layout storage is easily accessible, but is set-back far enough that operators can stand (or sit, for lower level operations) with ample room for their feet, or, when seated, knees.
If I move, this layout will likely end up in a dumpster, but a similar support structure in a garage could easily be topped with 3/4" plywood once the layout modules were removed, creating a useful and sturdy work area for the new owner.
Wayne
Kinda like rrebell said, nail/screw a 2x? on backwalls, to from a ledge. the cor.mod would sit on said ledge, supported in front by the two mod. Bolts and wingnuts would make it moveable. Useing 1x4 for box you could span 4-5ft in front perhaps more, keep in mind the longer the face the the further back you have to reach
rrebell - good point, great idea!! This would save on costs too. Thanks!!
Taking notes here. Thanks for your input UNCLEBUTCH.
If you want to cover the modules to ward off dust, I'd suggest that you buy a roll of the sheet plastic used as vapour barrier in house construction. It's likely a lot cheaper than tarp, and a lot easier to handle, too. When you do get the time and money to finish the garage walls, you can use what's left for its intended purpose.My original 4'x8' layout was in an unfinished basement, and to keep the dust at bay, my dad added removeable stakes, three, I think, to each long side of the table. A screw eye was inserted into the top of each, then heavy string (sash cord, perhaps) was strung around the perimeter. Heavy plastic, in 8' or 10' widths and normally used as vapour barrier, was cut to length, then draped over the stakes/string, and allowed to hang down around all sides. It was easy, even alone, to fold the plastic onto itself two or three times, remembering which side is up, then remove it and drape it over a nearby chair.Because the plastic is fairly thick, walking by it, or even a breeze from outdoors when the garage door is open, won't likely lift the plastic at all.
Fortunately, I have a basement for my layout. I cannot imagine using a portion of my garage for a layout, but if that is the only available location, then so be it.
I have a thought for you to consider. Instead of spending a lot of money to drywall the garage walls and ceiling, why not consider building a clear acrylic box cover and use a hoist to lift and lower it between sessions? That would keep the layout dust free and protect it from the elements.
If you Google 'garage hoist', you will find a variety of relatively inexpensive systems. Just a thought.
Rich
Alton Junction
Keep in mind you can get strong steel brackets at reasonable cost at the big box lumberyard. You can build the corner module similar to the way you've done the others, then simply set it on a set of suitable brackets. Here's a pic of the end of the line on my layout, where storage underneath was a consideration.
In this case, because of the tight space, I built onto the wall using the brackets for the main support, so this module is built in place, rather than portable as a module typically is. It could still be detached from the wall and moved.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
All great ideas! Brackets would work but I like to use what I have on hand. Still........they are onexpensive and sturdy and readily available....
Haven't thought about the house wrap plastic stuff or a clear box. I know what you are both talking about too. Worth considering. Thanks to you all!!
After a move a few years ago and losing my basement railroad space, I tried a small shelf layout in our garage. Such an arrangement, in New England, with no HVAC, didn't work at all -too hot in summer, too cold in winter. However, I did do some work on the layout, including boxing it in with top, sides and backdrop.
Here is how it looked at first:
This is a 40-year old piece of layout, all that remains after several moves over the years. Every time it moves, it seems to need re-building. Ah, but keeps me busy!
Amazing what a difference a little staging can make:
I finally prevailed upon the Other Half to give me a space in our finished basement. MUCH better. I can work on the layout no matter the season.
It pulls out on casters in tracks on the side walls. DW likes it because there are no legs interfering with keeping the flooring vacuumed.
Since this pic I have added blue background panels.
I used the same type of angled braces / legs on my small layout, screwed the wall side of the frame work directly to wall studs, and ran an angle brace every two feet or so to the wall studs at the bottom .. not to the floor itself, good storage and no vertical legs to get in the way
Before doing anything, insulate the doo doo out of the garage. That will massively help on keeping the massive tempature and humidity swings down a lot.
Wait for sales and Menards 11% off everything. Peg board is a good cheap way to seal off the rest of the garage while only dry walling where you are going to be building for easy back drop/clean look.
Also another cheap way for insulation and dust cut down factor is to use some thing 1/4 or so wood along the joists(ceiling)and using the foil sided inusulation sheets slit on one side so u can pop it up between the joists.
Lots of cheap ways to go, but I would recommend sealing up/insulating and making it as useable as you can all year round first.
I have achieved good results cantilevering open grid benchwork from my garage walls as well as from a new stud wall I built for a central peninsula. The resulting benchwork includes open spans as long as 13 feet with plenty of storage space beneath the layout. All of the open grid benchwork was fabricated from 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. Dimensional lumber was used only for the peninsula stud wall and to make gluing blocks to reinforce the plywood corner joints. All framing joints are glued with only 18 gauge brads used to hold everything together while the glue cured. The layout has been up for several years and the longest spans have not sagged even 1/8"!
Hornblower