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Second try at a simplified design on a retractable setup.

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  • Member since
    July 2016
  • 4 posts
Second try at a simplified design on a retractable setup.
Posted by WesleyB420 on Tuesday, July 19, 2016 9:34 AM

Ok, my first shot at putting something up here was pretty bad.  I went back and read some things i was pointed to and came up with a modification of a design i was shown.  

Aside from the S curve on the main bottom (i think that is what it is), does anything else stick out that looks really bad?  I am trying to keep it simple and dual mains was just not going to work.  Space is 12x5 on 2" foam framed.  This setup is suspended from the ceiling and retracts when i need my garage back for work on my jeep.  Any and all comments are welcome.  Sorry for the "look at my layout" thread but this is how i can evolve and get this setup rolling with what i have.  Here are a few pics of the retractable setup.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tags: Retractable
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Northern CA Bay Area
  • 4,387 posts
Posted by cuyama on Wednesday, July 20, 2016 11:33 AM

It appears that you are working towards expanding one of the HO 5X9 out-and-back layouts on this page.

The layouts on that page were done with flextrack and you appear to be working with sectional track, which is less efficient of space. But trimming some of the sections can help. 

I know it can be tricky using CAD if you are not experienced with it, but I do notice a few issues on your version. As you note, the S-curve at the bottom of the main oval is a concern and could be removed, especially in the extra length that you have.

You’ve also removed one of the key elements of the original design, which is the reversing connection that allows trains that leave the yard to return without a backing move. Unless you are purposely trying to avoid reversing connections, I think that’s worth trying to include.

You have some tracks very close to the edge of the benchwork. The original plan is already tighter than I would like in that regard, with only about 2½” in a few spots from the track center to the edge. Yours seems even less. 3”or more is better in HO.

Track-to-track spacing may also be a concern, including where straight tracks come near curves. As one builds a layout, even with sectional track, it’s easy to trim pieces to fit. It can be difficult to trim sectional track in some CAD programs, but is worth exploring.

The yard is shorter than it would need to be if you employed the approach I used in having it begin from the diverging leg of the turnout. This avoids S-curves as shown below and increases the useable length.

Good luck with your layout.

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • 223 posts
Posted by Choops on Thursday, July 21, 2016 11:41 AM

Do you use the winch from the jeep to lift it? Laugh

Wireing is going to be a breeze.

Nice work.

if you add lexan or removeable panels around the edges you can pull it tight to the ceiling to keep it clean.

Steel frame may have been a good idea to avoid warping.

Steve

Modeling Union Pacific between Cheyenne and Laramie in 1957 (roughly)
  • Member since
    February 2016
  • 53 posts
Posted by Goosetown on Thursday, July 21, 2016 11:54 AM

I like the idea!  As long as your structures don't get in the way!

 

  • Member since
    July 2016
  • 4 posts
Posted by WesleyB420 on Friday, July 22, 2016 9:55 AM
I was planning on making a "box" up on the ceiling so i could pull it up and it would encase it and keep the dust out. The garage is heated/cooled so warping will not be a huge issue. I also built the frame using a Kreg Jig to make the pocket holes along with wood glue so the flex is minimal. It has a 2" foam sheet on top and is very light. I have a boatload of kato unitrack and that is why i am using it initially. I may decide to get flextrack once i have the design down and use the unitrack on a wall switching layout. Who knows and thanks for the compliments. There is a manual boat winch used to crank it up to the ceiling. The automatic winch was going to be too loud!

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