Happy 4th of July.
I have several old switches which were soldered to the ajoining rails and when removed from the layout were cut at the connection, leavinf half a connector soldered in place. Is there anyway to remove it without melting the ties?
Thanks in advance
heat the solder with the iron, not the track, and use a sucker to remove it when it start melting.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
I do the same as Mel; but I prefer to push the jointer off with a small blade screwdriver.Most times they come off clean enuff to slip on new jointer.
If your melting tiies,you have too mutch heat
Hello all,
In addition to a solder sucker you can use solder remover tape.
It is a flexible braided product.
You place the end of the solder tape in contact with the solder to be removed. Apply the hot soldering iron to the tape, and using a wicking action, it removes the solder.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Hi iwander:
I use a 100/140 watt Weller soldering gun on high to heat the components. The trick is to work very quickly and use a heat sink as was suggested. Here is my method:
- If the track is loose, mount it securely in a vise so that it can't run away on you and so you have both hands free. If the track/turnout is still mounted to the roadbed then it will hold itself in place.
- Apply a heat sink about 3/4" from the solder point. You can use vice grips but, as was mentioned, you have to be very careful. I prefere a pair of needle nosed pliers with an elastic band wrapped around the handles. They won't damage the rails. Alternately, a moist paper towel works well too. Use an elastic to hold it to the rail if possible, or put a little weight on it if the track is still installed.
- Get a small flat bladed screwdriver to push the joiner when the solder is hot.
- Get the iron tip hot and clean it before touching the rail/joiner. Don't put the tip on cold and then start to heat things.
- Apply the hot tip to one side of the rail so it contacts both the rail and the joiner. If the bottom of the joiner is accessible apply the heat there. Don't hang around!!! Push on the joiner almost immediately. The whole operation should only take a second or two. If you are worried about residual heat, use a moist paper towel to cool the rail as soon as the joiner pops off.
My theory is that you are applying a lot of heat but in a very short time. The amount of heat melts the solder very quickly but you are not giving the heat much time to transfer down the rails or into the ties. Smaller soldering irons have to be held on the rail longer, and the longer they are on the rail, the more heat builds up in the rail. It works for me. There may be some minor melting of the ties but not enough to disfigure them.
Hopefully, most of the solder will come off the rail with the joiner. If you are left with a blob on the rail then use one of the solder removal methods outlined above. Or, do what I do which is to re-heat the rail and give it a quick swipe with a small wire brush. If there is just a bit of solder left on the rail, a small file will clean it up quickly.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I realize I'm a little late for your particular situation, but I always cut the rail about 1/2" away from the turnout leaving the rail joiner whole. I lose a little track, but it makes it easier to get the joiner off since you have something to grab with the needle nose pliers.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Dave: Have you tried any other types of heat sinks?
Mel: love the hemostat idea. I think I may have a couple too!
Pat Bandy
I use simple alligator clips as heat sinks...don't have to worry about kinking/damaging the rail:
Take Care!
Frank
IgnatoskyDave: Have you tried any other types of heat sinks?
I have a couple of hemostats but I always forget that they are there.
To be honest, most of the time I don't bother with a heat sink at all but, as I said, you have to move quickly.
I recently soldered a bunch of feeder wires to my Peco Electrofrog turnouts. I did 39 turnouts and only partially melted the plastic on one frog. That was my own fault because I didn't have the joint prepared properly and I held the iron on the rail too long In your case, you may be forced to apply the heat a bit longer than would be neccessary for attaching a wire. For that reason I would use a heat sink, at least at first until you know how long it takes to loosen the rail joiner.
I've had to do this plenty of times. As others mentioned, heating the soldering iron to the ties works wonders to remove the solder. To avoid ruining the ties, why not remove them first? I don't mind melting the ties since I have plenty from cutting/curving track.
~Lee