My old layout had homosote and track nails did the trick. The new layout is Walthers turnouts (83) , a layer of sheet cork 3/16" I think and 2" foam. How do you guys fix the ground throws to the layout?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I used left over cork roadbed as a pad over the homosote to raise the throw to track height and used track nails. You could also use latex caulk I suppose.
Joe Staten Island West
What works for me; slip a thin pieace of styrine [for sale sign] under turnout, glue/screw turnout and throw to styrine be aware of moving parts. you now have a combined unit, independent of what it sits on.A little paint and ballest/weeds it will blend right in. the ''unit'' can then be clauked to table top or I let mine float,track before and after is ballested, no prob with anything moving
Mine are mounted on either plywood or cork roadbed. A few on sheet cork.
Once I have the hole in the throwbar drilled for the pin, I center the points using a drill bit or piece of strip wood and position the ground throw. When everything is lined up to your satisfaction, hold the ground throw down firmly with the tip of a small screwdriver or other tool and apply a SMALL drop of ACC to the edge of the base. If you use to much super glue, you will bind and destroy the mechanism. Once the glue wicks up under the base it is down for good.
I have used this method on at least 50 swithches and none of them have come loose in 15 years.
Once the ACC is set, you can always drill and install miniature screws of nails if you want mechanical fasteners for added security, but I have found that totally unnecessary.
Be happy in your work
Charlie
I also use 2" foam on my switching layout. To mount the Caboose ground throws, I make a pocket in the foam next to the turnout. It is a tight fit on a piece of 1 1/2 square 3/4 thick clear pine. I use latex caulk in the pocket and press the wood into the pocket. Then I position the throw and secure it to the block with small screws.
I pour little pads of concrete around the layout, just like CP does.
Actually, it is plastic molding. It is the same thickness as the cork roadbed. It comes in a 8' length for about $1.00 a length. You could also use wood, hardboard or something else. I cut about an inch off and paint it gray. Caulk it to the foam and caulk the groundthrow to that. Never had one come loose yet.
For track mounted directly to foam, I just cut out a little square in the foam an set my little pad of concrete into the foam. Just like Canadian Pacific does when they mount their track to the foam.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
My layout is cork over foam. I used straight pins (sewing isle at most stores) with a small head, painted black. This makes an invisable, and secure, connection.
Never had an issue this way. (The pins can also hold track in place while caulk dries, an added benefit.)
Just something to think about if you have the popular foam layout base.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Foam sure introduces a new set of challenges, which is why I have continued to refuse to get "modern". Yes, on my layout started 2 years ago, I use homasote in my yards so mounting caboose industries throws is on cork with Atlas track nails. No adhesives necessary and easy to pull out if need be. Some how the old ways still seem to make sense to me.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Hi all
Well my layout is old fashioned wood and soft board construction so its cork packing and the ground throw is held down by track screws rather than track nails.
They are geting hard to find but track screws can still be found and I think are better for holding ground throws than nails.
How you would fit them on foam I have no idea as there is nothing particularly solid to fix them to.
regards John
Mine is foam. I took some ply that was the same thickness as the cork and just glue little pads down with caulk and when dry just screwed on the throws, no problem.
not pretty, but the right height
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Thanks for the ideas guys. There is no question that homasote and plywood have better purchase for nails and screws but foam is what I am using. I did not know there were track screws, various sizes on ebay....#96 and metric 1.4 x 10 if anyone else was curious.
I have Homasote for roadbed, so I always use #0 round head black wood screws....fits right in the holes on the ground throw. I used to get them from Perfect...but now I get them from Cir-Kit, also have many other use's for them, so I buy a whole bunch.
http://cir-kitconcepts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=166
I also use N-scale 206s ground throws, instead of HO scale one's on My HO scale layout....to Me they look a lot better than the HO scale monster's. They work perfect on number 4 Atlas turnouts that's all I use ground throws for, all others are powered. I use a flat blade little screw driver with the blade filed, to also be used as an uncoupler.
Take Care!
Frank
Most of the time I use track nails into the cork roadbed. But for the places that that won't work I use Fabri Tac.