1x3 Open Grid Benchwork

[WHartman]

Anybody have success with 1x3 open grid benchwork, as compared with 1x4?
I am considering the lighter sections for an around the walls n-scale layout. Maximum depth of the benchwork will be 24" away from the walls, with either diagonal braces back to the walls or legs along the front. I am planning the largest individual portion of the benchwork to be 24" x 72", adjacent portions bolted together, in order to accommodate a future move.

[bogp40]

Why change the size of benchwork if you are already using 1x4s for the rest of the layout? If you have the stock on hand, I don't see any problem with using 1x3s as long as the isle length is not overextended for support. You can also double up the edge of the frame with a matching 1x4. Let's see what others have to say or recommend.
Bob K.

[rrinker]

With a maximum 24" width, AND support there's no reason why 1x3 lumber wouldn;t be plenty strong enough. With narrow shelves there really is no reason to build the benchwork so strong you can walk on it
I buit 2x8 foot sections from 1x4 lumber and put them together to form an 8x12 layout space to get started. Each section has 4 legs made from 2x3's (since Home Depot does not sell 2x2's, and I don't have a table saw to rip 2x4's in half to make 2x2's). If I were to do it again, I would elminitae half the legs, once bolted together, the sections support themselves just fine, and the two inside legs at each corner really don't need to be there. As I expand aroudn the walls, each section will typicaly be another 2x8 section, so I can alway stake it apart and move if I have to. I intend to put legs only on the open ends of each section - ie, the first section I build to add on, will bolt to the existing tables at one end and have a pair of legs at the other end. The next section will bolt to this, and have legs only at the far end, etc. I built the 4 sections I have now in a weekend using hand tools plus a power drill/driver - I sawed all the wood by hand. I saw a small inexpensive chop saw at Harbor Freight that is more than adequate to cut 1x4 lumber, and if the next expansion goes on a splanned I will probably buy it, and at least double my productivity. 64 linear feet of benchwork in a weekend is pretty darn good progress. Heck, 32 feet with hand tools isn't too bad, either! And it is all square, too, I hate sloppy work.

--Randy

[IRONROOSTER]

1x3 should work fine, you may need more legs. My current layout uses 1x4's and I find an 8 foot span works okay, but 10 foot is too long, After you build a 6 foot bench work section push down on the middle. If you get no sag then you are okay. If you get noticeable sag then put your legs 4 feet apart.
Enjoy
Paul

[tstage]

WHartman,

I used 1x 3's on my 4 x 8' table, using 1-1/2" thick extruded foam insulation, and had no problems whatsoever. Will you be using a plywood base or foam? I ended up creating a 1x 3 supported frame or box around my foam so the edges are protected. If 24" is your deepest width then I would think that either a plywood or foam base (or both) would work fine.

You might try considering using a braced inverted "L" (made out of 1 x 3's) for supporting the open grid benchwork around the walls. This would enable you to eliminate the need for support legs and give you more continuous storage room underneath. It wil also keep you from stubbing your toes. [:)]

Hope that helps...

Tom

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by WHartman

Anybody have success with 1x3 open grid benchwork, as compared with 1x4?
I am considering the lighter sections for an around the walls n-scale layout. Maximum depth of the benchwork will be 24" away from the walls, with either diagonal braces back to the walls or legs along the front. I am planning the largest individual portion of the benchwork to be 24" x 72", adjacent portions bolted together, in order to accommodate a future move.

1x3's will be plenty strong for your needs. Most modelers overbuild their layouts (4x4 legs?!?), and I've yet to see a layout that really needs 1x4's ot 2x4's (well, except for this one indoor G scale monstrosity).

But why bother with L girder construction at all? If you're planning on moving soon and want to build the layout to be portable, why noth build them to Ntrak specs? Build a simple 1x4 box frame, cover it with 1/4" plywood or 2" foam, and either make PVC or 2x2 legs or hang the layout from the walls using shelf brackets? Heck, the simplest way to build the layout would be to use shelf brackets, 1/4" plywood and 1" foam, with 1x2's screwed together at the joints. This method is simple, inexpensive, won't warp, and more than enough support for any N scale layout.