Hi, I'm a new user here and a new model railroader. I got my first model train for Christmas when I was 8 and it's been a dream of mine since then (30 years) to get into the hobby, so I guess better later than never.
Thanks for posting your layout. It was easy to open and the software tool looks really interesting to use.
Like you, I have my first layout operational, so what I can suggest is coming from a relative novice. To start, you might want to pick up John Armstrong's well-known book about track planning and Jeff Wilson's on getting into the model trains; the latter is much easier to read and the former can serve as a life-long reference guide.
For the layout, I would remove the circles on the layout and create a point-to-point set up. Of course you can still have sidings for industries. I also would have track go over the water to give more eye appeal than just a waterbody. The double-ended tracks (in the middle) can also serve industries. Having less track is more realistic than trying to squeeze too much into a small space.
Those are just my thoughts and I look forward to what my more learned colleagues can offer.
You are going to have issues with the top and left inaccesible areas because of reach. I would shoot for a maximum of 24" width to reach anywhere on the layout from where that point on the layout is accesible.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Hi! And, Welcome!
I'm strictly an HO guy these days, but did build an N layout back in the '80s.
On my layout, I sacrificed ease of reach for more layout space. While your 4 ft reach is significant, its not a major problem - if you take care to make the trackage and wiring "bulletproof" in those areas.
Take the time to assure there are no kinks - either horizontally or vertically, and that you apply feeders every 4 ft or so, and on each of the stub sidings.
Extra care taken now will make a huge difference later on. Gee, how do I know?
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I am a few years into building my HO layout. Not my first railroad if you count the 4X8 that I built years ago, but still a relative novice compared to most here. Having gone through this recently with success so far...
I am hardly a layout design expert but I like your basic plan. Some folks really like point-to-point and some just have to have continuous operation (loops at the ends). I fall into the latter camp, but its a trade-off either way. I'll let the operations experts drive that part of the discussion. Also I am not familiar with N-scale so can't provide any advice on track or turnouts. But unitrack would not be my first choice for the reasons you mention.
Reach is a big consideration especially if you want nicely detailed scenery. My first phase was a 5x8 section and I built it as an "island" and concentrated on the back and sides that eventually would go against walls. Once finished I pushed it into place. This worked really well. If you make sure that your benchwork is good and stout so it can safely be moved, or better yet put it on casters, then you can do the same. For me that first section can no longer be moved but I do have an access hole in the center so I can still work on the rear if needed. The track has proven to be bulletproof so I will eventually fill the access hole with a popout scene.
You should decide on a region and timeframe for your layout before you get too far into it. If modeling a relatively flat area then its a lot easier especially for a beginner and you can just keep all the track level and add some simple terrain changes using foam as you suggest. If you put the track on top of 2" foam then you can carve into it to get some landscape below, and add more foam on top for hills and mountains.
Track elevation changes make getting good dependable trackwork a lot more challenging, at least for HO, and require different construction methods than laying track on top of a sheet of foam. Also I don't think that grades are possible with unitrack. Same goes for the tunnels shown in the diagram since you will need to plan how to access the hidden track to remove stuck trains and for maintenance. Not saying that these features should not be included, but they need to be planned for early on.
Huntington Junction - Freelance based on the B&O and C&O in coal country before the merger... doing it my way. Now working on phase 3. - Walt
For photos and more: http://www.wkhobbies.com/model-railroad/
Since you have reach issues in the upper left, I would refrain from putting turnouts or places to uncouple cars up there, that's when derailments usually occur or where you need to reach.
OTOH, using that space for the back side of a loop really doesn't invite many problems unless the radius is too tight.
You might want to plan on having that area buried in a tunnel and have a hole in the benchwork for access under the tunnel too.
Also, I'm not a big fan of secional track, which the Kato product essentially is. As you noted, it limits some flexibility and realism to the look.
- Douglas
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I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
I would suggest that you install re-railers inside tunnels and places that are hard to reach.
Why some folks build their benchwork before deciding on a track plan escapes my understanding.
OK, enough of that ...
It takes very little to improve the rather plasticky look of Kato Unitrack. All you need is a rattle can of dark brown paint and fine N scale ballast.
I spray-painted the track and then re-ballasted it carefully. It´s a bit of a fiddly job, but worth the effort:
Sir Madog Why some folks build their benchwork before deciding on a track plan escapes my understanding.
In some cases, there is only one shape of benchwork that will maximize a given space, like an around the room donut design, so there isn't much reason to mess around with computers or paper to design a specific, detailed plan before building the shelves.
In that case, I guess technically, the trackplan has already been decided as being a big loop, but where the specific features go can be designed on the benchwork and the builder can see the viewing angles and such in real life and adjust them to his liking.
Sir Madog,
Nice job on the Kato roadbed. I've used Kato track for a few years (the stuff is bulletproof) and I think it is underated by many. It may be sectional track but you can do some interesting things with it. There are a few videos on youtube on how to work with the track. One of my favorite videos is to turn straight track upside down, then saw (crosswise) from the bottom of the roadbed to just below the track ties. Cut every 1-2 inches and you can slightly bend the straight track to make easement curves or gradual S curve bending to eliminate that straight track look. It is a little bit of an effort, but I've had much less issues with Kato track then some of the other brands.
Thanks,
Jeff B