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Re railers on a curve

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  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Winnipeg Canada
  • 1,637 posts
Re railers on a curve
Posted by Blind Bruce on Thursday, May 21, 2015 11:01 AM

Most of my switching layout does not have straight track. Gentle curves and turnouts. What can I do to re rail cars other than picking them up?

73

Bruce in the Peg

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Mount Vernon WA
  • 968 posts
Posted by skagitrailbird on Thursday, May 21, 2015 12:47 PM

Bruce,

There are curved reilers available but only in 18" radius, I believe.

Are you looking for something to assist putting cars on the track or to keep cars from derailing? If the former, look at the Rix Products Rail-it #628-2. It is a plastic ramp about a foot long that you place on the rails. You then put a car on the upper part of the ramp and it rolls down and onto the track. $3.95 US thru Walthers.

If you are having issues with cars derailing I recommend installing guard rails in the problem areas. I did this on one of my curves where two cars would just not stay on the rails. I installed one guard rail next to the inside rail of the curve and have had no problems since.

Roger Johnson
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,321 posts
Posted by selector on Thursday, May 21, 2015 12:49 PM

Bruce, I think your choices are limited to two: design and build a curved rerailer (more about that in a second...) or continue to hoist them with the 1-4-0, as I do on my curves.

I think a curved rerailer would work, provided the curve was something near or above 28" because with smaller curves and somewhat longer rolling stock, lateral coupler forces might induce the trucks to want to keep derailed.  I believe the physics for tangent track truck rerailers should continue to be applicable to trucks that pivot freely and are on what we would call broad curves.  It is the longer trucks on tighter curves, in combination, and couplers wanting to force the ends of the cars meeting the rerailer outward that would possibly throw a wrench into many attempts to rerail.

I'm sure some other more knowledgeable modellers will think of other problems to overcome.

  • Member since
    April 2011
  • 649 posts
Posted by LensCapOn on Thursday, May 21, 2015 12:59 PM

selector

 or continue to hoist them with the 1-4-0, as I do on my curves.

 

Has that replaced the old "0-5-0 switcher" as a standard?

 

 

Change just keeps coming so quick!  All I can say is "D'oh!"

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Thursday, May 21, 2015 3:09 PM

LensCapOn

 

 
selector

 or continue to hoist them with the 1-4-0, as I do on my curves.

 

 

 

Has that replaced the old "0-5-0 switcher" as a standard?

 

 
I get a picture of something like J. W. Bowker with a rolling pin-shaped pilot wheel Whistling.
 
You can fabricate a re-railer by copying the geometry in the material(s) of your choice.  The only preassembled curved derailers I've encountered are 18" radius, and may have steel rails.  I have two in the box of yard sale junk I got from my sister.  Present plans call for leaving them there...
 
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
  • Member since
    October 2001
  • From: OH
  • 17,574 posts
Posted by BRAKIE on Thursday, May 21, 2015 6:57 PM

Blind Bruce

Most of my switching layout does not have straight track. Gentle curves and turnouts. What can I do to re rail cars other than picking them up?

 

The best solution is to fix the cause of these derailments..Zero derailments is easily attainable and you should accept nothing less.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Winnipeg Canada
  • 1,637 posts
Posted by Blind Bruce on Thursday, May 21, 2015 7:40 PM

First of all I  do not have a problem with derailments. I do have problems putting cars and locos on the track. When I uncouple cars (either 1-4-0 or 0-5-0) they always seem to be off the track.

73

Bruce in the Peg

  • Member since
    October 2001
  • From: OH
  • 17,574 posts
Posted by BRAKIE on Friday, May 22, 2015 5:48 AM

Blind Bruce

First of all I  do not have a problem with derailments. I do have problems putting cars and locos on the track. When I uncouple cars (either 1-4-0 or 0-5-0) they always seem to be off the track.

 

Ah..I see..Sorry I missed the point. Then may I suggest using a KD uncoupling magnet or their uncoupling pick?  These work quite well..

http://kadee.com/htmbord/page241.htm

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Fruita, CO
  • 540 posts
Posted by slammin on Friday, May 22, 2015 7:30 AM

Bruce,

How are you currently uncoupling cars? Are you using the skewer method or simply lifting them by hand? You might consider a tool marketed by Rix. Its less tan $5.00, widely available and my be the answer to your problem. Here's the link  http://www.rixproducts.com/6280014.htm

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Winnipeg Canada
  • 1,637 posts
Posted by Blind Bruce on Saturday, May 23, 2015 8:47 PM
Thanks everyone. I got a RIX uncoupler and it seems to work in "most" cases. I will have to ckeck all my trip pins for correct alignment now!

73

Bruce in the Peg

  • Member since
    August 2013
  • From: Richmond, VA
  • 1,890 posts
Posted by carl425 on Sunday, May 24, 2015 7:33 AM

BRAKIE
The best solution is to fix the cause of these derailments..Zero derailments is easily attainable and you should accept nothing less.

Rerailers are like guns - better to have one and not need it than need one and not have it.

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

  • Member since
    October 2001
  • From: OH
  • 17,574 posts
Posted by BRAKIE on Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:04 AM

carl425
 
BRAKIE
The best solution is to fix the cause of these derailments..Zero derailments is easily attainable and you should accept nothing less.

 

Rerailers are like guns - better to have one and not need it than need one and not have it.

 

Well,I have several guns but,no rerailers..As you may already know I won't accept anything less then 100% derailment free operation.

Behind every derailment there is a cause be it incorrect wheel gauge,low coupler trip pin,a track issue,truck screw to tight or (ahem!) human error.

All issues can be fixed.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
    August 2013
  • From: Richmond, VA
  • 1,890 posts
Posted by carl425 on Sunday, May 24, 2015 2:16 PM

BRAKIE
Behind every derailment there is a cause be it incorrect wheel gauge,low coupler trip pin,a track issue,truck screw to tight or (ahem!) human error. All issues can be fixed.

Agreed.  But a derailment would be such a pain in my staging yards that I still install rerailers before the yard ladders.  I will also install them on both sides of my swinging gate.  I have never wrecked a car, but I still wear a seatbelt.

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

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