One thing you could try is to carefully remove enough ties on each end of the 8" track, to give you enough room to slide the rail joiners all the way on. Postion the track where you want it, and slide the joiners on to the tunrnouts to connect the track. You might have to do one end at a time. First, make sure you trim the rails on the track so it fits good between the tunrouts. Then take the ties you removed, and place them back under the track, and secure with a dab of caulk or glue.
Mike.
My You Tube
Brilliant. I'm going to try that. Seems so obvious now!
Because the rail joiner will be a little loose from that sliding action, once it is in place a little pinch -- not too much or you will distort the rail joiner -- with a needle nosed pliers will restore solid contact between rail joiner and the base of the rail.
When you replace those ties, you'll want to cut or file off the "nubbins" that formerly held the rail in place, or they will tend to lift the rail up particularly where the rail joiner adds still more thickness. If you use enough flex track you'll end up with a supply of ties that you removed from this or that end and I try to treat all of them accordingly -- filing down an area on the ties where the rails used to be attached, sufficiently deep to clear not only the base of the rail, but also a rail joiner if any. Once you have a nice supply you'll be surprised by how fast you can use it up!
Dave Nelson
If the entire rail joiner length is giving you troubles w/ the fit already descibed, cut it down to 1/2 or 2/3rds. A small spot soldering may be needed after crimping in place.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
mbinsewi One thing you could try is to carefully remove enough ties on each end of the 8" track, to give you enough room to slide the rail joiners all the way on. Postion the track where you want it, and slide the joiners on to the tunrnouts to connect the track. You might have to do one end at a time. First, make sure you trim the rails on the track so it fits good between the tunrouts. Then take the ties you removed, and place them back under the track, and secure with a dab of caulk or glue. Mike.
Modelling HO Scale with a focus on the West and Midwest USA
I keep rail and ties on hand for these short fillers. I find that handlaying short segments is easier than trying to fit flex track.
Enjoy
Paul
dknelson Because the rail joiner will be a little loose from that sliding action, once it is in place a little pinch -- not too much or you will distort the rail joiner -- with a needle nosed pliers will restore solid contact between rail joiner and the base of the rail. When you replace those ties, you'll want to cut or file off the "nubbins" that formerly held the rail in place, or they will tend to lift the rail up particularly where the rail joiner adds still more thickness. If you use enough flex track you'll end up with a supply of ties that you removed from this or that end and I try to treat all of them accordingly -- filing down an area on the ties where the rails used to be attached, sufficiently deep to clear not only the base of the rail, but also a rail joiner if any. Once you have a nice supply you'll be surprised by how fast you can use it up! Dave Nelson
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Pleased to report that this method worked great. Thank you again!