The youtube videos lie!!!!

[streetspook]

Ok gang, I'm using code 83 and code 100 Atlas flex track. I've watched sooo many youtube videos that I'm seeing them in my sleep. I tried the recommended method of laying out the length of track I need ( 4 pieces of 36" track) and soldering the metal rail joiners. I've cut the first two rail spikes on the ties on each end of the track. I'm going around an approximately 28-30" curve. When I tried to put the track down for a test fit I had all kinds of problems because as the track goes around the curve, one of the rails gets longer and longer, DUH. So, now it appears that I will have to remove 3"-4" of ties????? Should I do that or lay each section of track and solder it then? And I've seen as many opinions as videos about whether or not to cut the track even to join the next piece or allow the uneven rails to connect where they may????? UGH!!!!!!! 

[floridaflyer]

With flex track one of the rails moves and one does not. Put the rail that moves on the inside of the curve so that it sticks out as the track is curved. Your choice as to whether you cut off the extended piece of track or fit the the next piece of track to the offset rails. Good idea to solder a couple pieces of flex together before you put it down  so a smooth curve results.  

[rrinker]

 Ditto. Sliding rail to the inside. SOlder two sections together, which should be long enough for a 90 degree curve at 28-30" radius. Removing 2 ties from each side of the join should be good - i fyou're careful when forming the curve, the joiner will stay in the middle of the removed ties, not try to push into the still attached ties. Trying to work with 3-4 sections all soldered together, you will probably end up with unnatural kinks at the joints because of the sliding rail. To join the next piece, trim off the extra length of the sliding rail, but not exactly equal to the fixed rail so the joints are slightly staggered. Remove a tie or two from the end of the curved part, and from the next section. Install joiners, solder or not, and continue on.

 Save all the cut off ties. Sand down the tops (I file a notch with a half round file) right over the spike and tie plate molded details. Then slip the ties into the spaces where you took them out of. With the notch filed in, they should fit in without lifting the rails. If they do, file them down some more.

                          --Randy

[CajonTim]

I work in N scale so there may be different issues, but I believe the principles are the same. 

I try always try to solder as many pieces of flex together as I will need to complete the curve before laying the track to minimize risk of kinks in the curve.  In N scale about 3 pieces is max for me though.  I tried 4 once and it was like wrestling a snake!  If for what ever reason you can't complete the curve, then before securing the last 6"-12" of track, solder another piece on (with end ties cut off) and continue your curve.

Remove 2-3 ties at each end of each piece of flex you will use in your curve and like "rrinker" says save them and install later.  This will help with strength and smoothness of operation not to mention asthetics!  But the most important reason is so that you don't accidently hook something under rail during construction and cause a kink.

Having the rail ends offset (an inch or so) isn't a terrible thing.  But I don't think you would want 4 inches of offset because you might lose your guage standard?

Tim

 

[mactier_hogger]

CajonTim

 

Having the rail ends offset (an inch or so) isn't a terrible thing.  But I don't think you would want 4 inches of offset because you might lose your guage standard?

Tim

 

 

 

That's when ME three point track guages come into play.

[rrinker]

 There are also some people who don;t even use rail joiners, and instead thread the protruding piece of the inside rail carefully into the 'spikes' of the next section of track, which certainly helps hold it all in alignment. I've never had a problem getting smooth, kink-free joints with flex track on curves though.

                  --Randy

[rrebell]

You need to pre curve the flex with many brands. I pined it into a curve on a peice of scrap foam and then picked up the souldered curve and put it in its home.

[streetspook]

Thanks for the replies. I think I will go with the two pieces at a time suggestion and a little staggered on the rails. I know about the moving rail to the inside of the curve. I just hope I don't have such a huge difference in rail lengths. The videos didn't really cover curves and none showed installation as it went. AND they all said "it's just that easy"! Thanks again for the tips

[wp8thsub]

I go one piece at a time, cutting off a couple ties on each end for joiner clearance.  I don't usually stagger the joints much.  Any advice from a video or forum is of questionable value if it doesn't jive with how you like to work.  My techniques may not be the best for you and vice versa.

[BC Don]

I'm just starting but what seems to be working is to solder two pieces together (N Scale), and fit that to the curve, pinning it down but leaving the last 6 inches "straight".   Then, cut the rails so they are close to even (I like the idea of a bit of stagger as someone else said), then solder in the next hunk of flex track and continue pinning the track down around the corner until you reach a straight.  The only thing that might cause me to change this is if I went right into a reversing curve, then I'd want to stagger the "long" track more.

 

[Texas Zepher]

rrinker

There are also some people who don;t even use rail joiners, and instead thread the protruding piece of the inside rail carefully into the 'spikes' of the next section of track, which certainly helps hold it all in alignment.

That would be me: well, almost.   I never cut ties. I use them all. I do use shortened joiners or butt joints.  I never solder on the bench always in place.

[NP2626]

All of my track is Atlas HO Flex-track.  As has been stated the sliding rail in the track goes to the inside.  I only ever had to remove the first two ties on each track, if done properly, that is all that should ever need removal.

A link to the You-Tube video you feel was steering you wrong, would be helpful.  It is "Just that easy"!

[tomikawaTT]

Using (mostly) Atlas Code 100 and Code 83, I pre-set the curvature, keeping the fixed rail to the outside.  My flying loose end is threaded into the tie strip of the next section - I WANT the joints to be staggered.  If you absolutely, positively have to solder rail joints, solder the outside rail ONLY until you have everything in place.  I personally solder jumpers around the joints and leave the rail ends free to move - it's a climate compensation thing in my layout space (100 degree temperature swing in 12 months, and as much as 50 degree swing in 12 hours!)

One other little trick.  File a small bevel in the top inside corner of the railhead at every joint.  You don't want to take much metal, just a few thousandths - just enough to eliminate the possibility of catching a flange and having it climb up on the railhead.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[riogrande5761]

streetspook

 I tried the recommended method of laying out the length of track I need ( 4 pieces of 36" track) and soldering the metal rail joiners. I've cut the first two rail spikes on the ties on each end of the track. ... When I tried to put the track down for a test fit I had all kinds of problems because as the track goes around the curve, one of the rails gets longer and longer, DUH. So, now it appears that I will have to remove 3"-4" of ties????? ... I've seen as many opinions as videos about whether or not to cut the track even to join the next piece or allow the uneven rails to connect where they may????? UGH!!!!!!! 

I only remove one tie from each end of a piece of flex track, thats all thats usually needed, straight or curved.

Sometimes the internet is called the Missinformation Highway.  Before you even touch your computer, remember to filter what people tell you though things like common sense etc.  And with youtube, everyone who posts a video considers them self an expert when they are just another person with a camera who thinks they know something.

 

I learned my flex track laying from a good old fashioned book published before youtube or the new fangled foam subroadbed with glue craze.  The advise in the book was to lay each piece of flex track one piece at a time and there, my friend, that will save you a lot of trouble there.  Ignore the self proclaimed experts with a video camera!

 

Common sense says to lay a piece and then if you need to, trim the rail thats sticking out (for curves) so it is even with the other rail.  No stinking rail sliding into the next piece baloney.  You don't have to solder either, although that can be a good idea to improve electrical conductivity throughout the track or to minimize chances of kinking rail.

 

If you do solder get some sort of heat sinks, like those Radio Shack used to sell or use alligator clips - it will help avoid melting ties near the solder joint.  Also get a little bottle of flux to brush on.

For cutting rail, the cheapest way is to get a good set of Xuron rail nippers, they cut rail pretty good.  Do NOT user them for wire or other things as that can ruin them.  Get a small file to touch up the ends of the rail too.

 

Cheers, Jim Fitch

[BATMAN]

riogrande5761

Sometimes the internet is called the Missinformation Highway.

No kidding!

Even I cringe at the "how to solder track" video's on You-Tube.

I bought a five piece bundle of used flex track at a train show for a dollar to practice on. My father inlaw with sixty plus years being a technicion under his belt, had me soldering feeders on (with no melted ties) in no time.

Allan Gartner I believe said "everything should be soldered to something" meaning, if you don't solder joiners together then that piece must have a feeder. I took his advice and did as he said, this is the first layout I have never had an electrical issue with, never.

[Pruitt]

Here's how I do it:

I start at one of the tangents to the curve, planning to lay the flex track from the straight into the curve. I also plan for the first piece to be tangent (straight) at the starting end, and in the curve at the other. All the sliding rails are on the inside of the curve.

1. Remove one or two ties from each end of the first piece of flextrack.
2. Clean and deburr three of the four track ends well where the rail joiners go (I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel - it works great!)

1. Both rails at the tangent end
2. Only the outside (fixed) rail at the curved end
3. Don't bother with the inside rail end in the curve as it will be clipped shorter.

• Lay the tangent part and lead the track into the curve.
• Attach the track to the roadbed up to about 2" from the end of the track section. Leave that unfastened to the roadbed for now, leaving a very short straight section.
• Cut the inside rail off even with the outside rail.
• Clean and deburr the freshly cut rail end.
• Repeat steps 1 & 2 for the next piece of flextrack.
• Connect the second piece of flextrack to the first

1. Solder the rail joiners while the first piece still has the short, unfastened straight section.
2. The second piece also should be straight while soldering.

• Pull the soldered pieces into the curve and attach to the roadbed, working from the first piece into the second. If the sliding rail joiner begins hitting a tie on the new piece of track, remove that tie.
• Repeat steps 4 through 9 until you're finished with the curve and into the exiting tangent.

Doing this always give me very smooth, derailment-free curves.

 

[NP2626]

I finally saw the video in question and it was done by someone who is very "Ham Fisted" and really had no business making a video of the process.  Besides using copius amounts of solder, it was easy to see that he soldered a dip in the track at the joint he was working on. 

However, as you work with the process, you should learn as you go along, how to do a better job with every joint. 

[riogrande5761]

I'm still not an expert at soldering, but two things I learned that helps:

1)  Make sure you clean the tip of the soldering iron

2)  Brush on flux on the area you are going to solder.

I put heat sinks the rails during soldering to help avoid melting ties - I'm sure some can solder without heat sinks but I am cautious and expecially for beginners I highly recommend it.

[NP2626]

My Dad taught me how to solder.  He stressed that solder flows to the heat, so make sure the item being soldered is hot enough, before applying solder.  With the mechanical connection (rail and joiner) all that is needed is a very small amount of solder.  You really only need to see an outline of solder around the joiners, not a pool of solder on the joiner, as in the video.  Also, before actually soldering the joint, look to see that the rails flow nicely through the joint.  I always removed two ties (save the ties).  Two seemed to be enough so that the remaining adjacent ties would start to melt.  Then I take a very fine file and file the tops and upper corners of the rail, making sure there are no lumps, bumps; or, unfairness of the joint.  After you are done, file the details off of the two sets of two ties each and slide under the rails, making sure that the rails do not bulge up where the ties have been replaced.