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Swing out electrical panels

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  • Member since
    August 2013
  • From: Richmond, VA
  • 1,890 posts
Swing out electrical panels
Posted by carl425 on Thursday, August 28, 2014 8:25 AM

I'd like my panels for occupancy detectors and switch machine decoders to swing out for access and swing back out of the way for operation.  I've got some ideas, but there's no reason to reinvent another wheel if somebody already has a good method.

Any suggestions?

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
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Posted by cmrproducts on Thursday, August 28, 2014 8:50 AM

Make a drawer using cabinet slides.

Be sure you have lots of slack in the wiring to allow for the movement in and out!

One problem with this is the now big loop of wire - which gets stiffer with each additioanl individual wire added to the bunch will be hainging down and has the potential of getting snagged on anything that may be placed under the layout - even just a broom sweeping!

I did that once and found that the Drawer wanted to keep sliding out as the wire loop kept wanting to straighten back out when pushed in.

BOB H - Clarion, PA

  • Member since
    December 2001
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Posted by Stevert on Thursday, August 28, 2014 9:17 AM

An easy way is to just attach an approprately-sized piece of plywood to the underside of the benchwork using inexpensive cabinet hinges. 

A screen door hook to a screw eye in the bottom of the benchwork holds it up out of the way when not being worked on, and if you locate it next to a leg, another screw eye can be strategically placed in the leg to hold it in place when you are working on it.

Bundle the wiring and secure it at both the hinged edge of the plywood and on the benchwork side of the hinges, leaving a half-loop of maybe six inches between the two, to absorb the flexing

  • Member since
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  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
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Posted by cacole on Thursday, August 28, 2014 9:17 AM

You could try a hinge and door latch system that allows the panel to swing down to work on, and latched up out of the way.  This would allow shorter wiring and avoid the problem of too much wire hanging down.

 

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Charlotte, NC
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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Thursday, August 28, 2014 9:32 AM

Hinged at the top.  Installed as Stevert described.  I'm too old to crawl around under the layout.

 

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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  • From: Knoxville, TN
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Posted by farrellaa on Thursday, August 28, 2014 11:51 AM

I have two swing out electrical panels on my layout, both are control panels, one for turnouts and one for the turntable. This method would work for almost any electrical panel. The photo is for my turntable.

   -Bob

Life is what happens while you are making other plans!

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Thursday, August 28, 2014 12:31 PM

My control panels are operated in the vertical position, hinged at the bottom to fold downward into the aisle for maintenance, modification, troubleshooting or to access the hidden track behind them.  The piano hinges came with the heavy styrene, acquired by dumpster diving (they were formerly in-store displays.)

To avoid stressing the wiring harness I have it formed into a cable that runs from the inside of the panel terminal block along the hinge to the opposite end of the panel, from whence the various wires go their merry way to switch machines, signals, occupancy detectors and so forth.  That way, the entire bundle twists 90 degrees, and no wire is sharply bent.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with electricals as bulletproof as I can make them)

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Charlotte, NC
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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Thursday, August 28, 2014 1:17 PM

As you can see in both pictures:

LABEL EVERYTHING !

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

  • Member since
    August 2013
  • From: Richmond, VA
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Posted by carl425 on Thursday, August 28, 2014 1:20 PM
Thanks for the suggestions. It's strange how being so "tech oriented" for so long has made me forget simple solutions like a screen door hook. :)

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Charlotte, NC
  • 6,099 posts
Posted by Phoebe Vet on Thursday, August 28, 2014 1:34 PM

carl425
Thanks for the suggestions. It's strange how being so "tech oriented" for so long has made me forget simple solutions like a screen door hook. :)

That's how all 6 of mine are held up out of sight.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
  • 1,774 posts
Posted by cmrproducts on Thursday, August 28, 2014 1:46 PM

While - I stated using the Cabinet Drawer slides - that was way back in the DC days when I had miles of copper under the layout.

I now have a simple board with everything mounted on it at a height that I can use a Mechanic Creeper to lay on to work on the board (which is mounted vertial).

I also have rugs all over so even laying onthe floor is on a rug - nice and soft!

While I see some had a lot of well built panels - I have so few ( Staging Turnout Maching Matrix panels) that mine are just scewed up under the layout and I can remove then easily by unscewing the panel and then pull it out from the layout entirely.

Although I don't as there is NO Need to as there is Zero maintenance I would need to do those panels.

With using Digitrax - any board I would need to remove is on a Edge Card and I have a spare Card Programmed and ready to plug into the Socket and be back up and running.

The main thing was I overbuilt the wiring in the beginning and crimped & soldered every connections (NO Suitcase Connectors here) and with the layout having been up and running for 14 years with NO Electrical problems - I don't forsee any in the future either!

I have always found - if you make the panel removeable - you won't have to!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

  • Member since
    August 2013
  • From: Richmond, VA
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Posted by carl425 on Thursday, August 28, 2014 3:33 PM

cmrproducts
I have always found - if you make the panel removeable - you won't have to!

That sounds like a NRA slogan - "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it"

In general, I like the hinge ideas better than the drawers because with the hinge it's just a 90-180º twist of the wire vs the full in and out with the drawer.  The drawer also requires precision carpentry where the hook is more point and shoot.

I'm thinking that I can put the screen door hook on the panel a few inches from the hinge then put an eye in front to hold it up for wiring and an eye in back to hold it stashed.  Sounds like a damn fine solution for only $4-5 in hardware and 10 minutes of work.

I have the right to remain silent.  By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Knoxville, TN
  • 2,055 posts
Posted by farrellaa on Thursday, August 28, 2014 11:33 PM

farrellaa

I have two swing out electrical panels on my layout, both are control panels, one for turnouts and one for the turntable. This method would work for almost any electrical panel. The photo is for my turntable.

   -Bob

 

I didn't mention it when first posted but I didn't use a hinge on my panel, just drilled a hole thru sides and put wood dowel in; so it actually is a pivoting panel???? But a hinge would work too. The 1x4 in the back acts as a stop when in the 'down position' so I don't need anything to hold the panel. I also used two cabinet magnets (had in my shop box) to hold it in up position.

   -Bob

Life is what happens while you are making other plans!

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