Now that I've posted where I'm at I would like to ask this question as it is one of my many struggles, I want to add slow moving deep rivers/canals not so much to the perimeters of the layout but more to the interior and build up the area around them with structures etc. To go abouts this should the river bottoms be sitting on the grid top as plywood or hardboard so to speak at the very lowest elevation of the entire layout? Should the track bed then be raised high enough on its risers higher than the level I now have them for the most part? Would the distance from the river bed then be 10-15 scale feet below the ground work or roadbed then everything else be build up above that? I would also like to add that seeing as I'm still not 100% sure where the rivers would go as structures still have not found there permanent home yet if the river bottom is to be placed at the lowest point being the grid top would I be further ahead simply filling in ontop of the grid where theres no track bed risers with some sort of base?
Thanks all suggestions welcome
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
Think about the rivers or streams that you have seen in your travels around different places. Think about how fishermen access them. 15 feet seems a little far down to me. I would go for 10 feet maybe at the most. Of course if you are in the maountains it would be farther down in a lot of cases.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
gandydancer19 Think about the rivers or streams that you have seen in your travels around different places. Think about how fishermen access them. 15 feet seems a little far down to me. I would go for 10 feet maybe at the most. Of course if you are in the maountains it would be farther down in a lot of cases.
I did raise the low end so it has a bit more room to play with for a water way. I kinda thought to myself after I posted the question, man what a dumb question, end of thought lol.
Thanks
What is the location of your layout? As suggested, if it is in the mountains, river bottoms can be far below the tracks. If you are running a shoreline railroad near a harbor, there might only be a few feet below the bridge. A pond or lake could be above the tracks, as ledge and natural terrain hold water in ponds in the mountains as well as the valley bottoms.
Good luck,
Richard
cowman What is the location of your layout? As suggested, if it is in the mountains, river bottoms can be far below the tracks. If you are running a shoreline railroad near a harbor, there might only be a few feet below the bridge. A pond or lake could be above the tracks, as ledge and natural terrain hold water in ponds in the mountains as well as the valley bottoms. Good luck, Richard
Yes it is a good variety if all that you described from end to end.
lynn
I built this canal to model an old mill complex.
It's not physically deep, but I used paint and tinted Envirotex to make it look that way. I wanted to get the look of a disused waterway. If I were to expand this scene, which I can't right now, I would add another section of the canal at a slightly different level and put in a lock where they meet.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasley I built this canal to model an old mill complex. It's not physically deep, but I used paint and tinted Envirotex to make it look that way. I wanted to get the look of a disused waterway. If I were to expand this scene, which I can't right now, I would add another section of the canal at a slightly different level and put in a lock where they meet.
Thats exactley the effect im after, an interior canal. where can i see more of your layout?
thanks alot
Wickman asked: Thats exactley the effect im after, an interior canal. where can i see more of your layout?
My photos are at http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/8165
Thanks for looking.
MisterBeasley Wickman asked: Thats exactley the effect im after, an interior canal. where can i see more of your layout? My photos are at http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/8165 Thanks for looking.
Made it through all 39 pages, you should be proud of your accomplishments. I didnt realize you could pour envirotex on foam I always though it ate it. I really enjoyed the way you took photos not only of the finished scenes but the while you were working on them scenes. great job
Hi,
You have done some beautiful work there, and a lot of it. Very, very nice!
May I offer a suggestion............ on my "fill the room layout" I put in triangles of plywood on all the inside corners. They range from 8x8 inches to 12x12 inches. This has done two things........it allows for a more sweeping curve (be it rail or road), and it softens up the harsh corner.
After figuring out the size of the triangle, I then put 1x4 fascia boards on the edges, and then fastened to the existing benchwork. The result is super strong, and IMO made a very nice difference.
Hope to see more pics as you progress!
Bill
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
mobilman44 Hi, You have done some beautiful work there, and a lot of it. Very, very nice! May I offer a suggestion............ on my "fill the room layout" I put in triangles of plywood on all the inside corners. They range from 8x8 inches to 12x12 inches. This has done two things........it allows for a more sweeping curve (be it rail or road), and it softens up the harsh corner. After figuring out the size of the triangle, I then put 1x4 fascia boards on the edges, and then fastened to the existing benchwork. The result is super strong, and IMO made a very nice difference. Hope to see more pics as you progress! Bill
Thanks for the suggestion Bill, the reason I post here is to get suggestions and hope to get many many more. Unfortunately I'm not exactly clear on what you mean.?
First thing you will notice I updated the trackplan to keep things in order.I fixed up the track so the track above the tunnel no longer has a portal below a bridge end, I did this by moving the upper rail back and the tunnel rail forward and also had to move the switches a bit.I've been making slow progress on the layout, I didnt like the way the two bridge were over the tunnel entrances so had to take apart what I had as you can see in the before pics and fix things up.
Before pics, you can see the bridge/tunnel issue.
The left hand bridge These are pics at the present state with track reworked and tunnel area not closed in yet , working to get the bridges some abutments made up. I also got the mountains moved upward to where there in a better position. Quite a bit of plaster cloth work completed as well. Added two new tracks to goto the two diorammas, the diorammas are raised and will be backfilled. Thanks for looking.
These are pics at the present state with track reworked and tunnel area not closed in yet , working to get the bridges some abutments made up. I also got the mountains moved upward to where there in a better position. Quite a bit of plaster cloth work completed as well. Added two new tracks to goto the two diorammas, the diorammas are raised and will be backfilled. Thanks for looking.
These are pics at the present state with track reworked and tunnel area not closed in yet , working to get the bridges some abutments made up.
I also got the mountains moved upward to where there in a better position. Quite a bit of plaster cloth work completed as well. Added two new tracks to goto the two diorammas, the diorammas are raised and will be backfilled. Thanks for looking.
I also got the mountains moved upward to where there in a better position. Quite a bit of plaster cloth work completed as well. Added two new tracks to goto the two diorammas, the diorammas are raised and will be backfilled.
Lynn:
I didn't see an answer to your question about Bill's use of triangles so I thought I would try to clarify what he meant.
In the first picture of your Sept. 11 post you can see where the benchwork makes a 90 degree turn to the left. There is a track running very close to the edge of the benchwork right at the 90 degree bend. I believe what Bill was suggesting was to put a triangular piece of plywood with fascia in that corner so that the fascia makes two 45 degree turns instead of the single 90 degree turn. That allows space for a little more foreground scenery and avoids the appearance that the track is coming perilously close to the edge of the layout. He suggested that the square sides of the triangle could be 8" to 12" long but you can use whatever size suits you.
By the way, your changes to the bridge/tunnel setup look much better IMHO.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter Lynn: I didn't see an answer to your question about Bill's use of triangles so I thought I would try to clarify what he meant. In the first picture of your Sept. 11 post you can see where the benchwork makes a 90 degree turn to the left. There is a track running very close to the edge of the benchwork right at the 90 degree bend. I believe what Bill was suggesting was to put a triangular piece of plywood with fascia in that corner so that the fascia makes two 45 degree turns instead of the single 90 degree turn. That allows space for a little more foreground scenery and avoids the appearance that the track is coming perilously close to the edge of the layout. He suggested that the square sides of the triangle could be 8" to 12" long but you can use whatever size suits you. By the way, your changes to the bridge/tunnel setup look much better IMHO. Dave
Thanks Dave I had figured out what he was talking about and actually added the corners to my trackplan and to the to do list.
Found some time to get the two bridges installed, took a bit to get the track to flow nicely. I decided to go with mounting the bridges off the roadbed and go the cosmetic route with abutments.
I got another bridge setup and now need to build two bridges for the lower tracks. Itching to run a train again.
I got a jig made up for the two bridges I need. The bridges will be 17 inches end to end and sides with be 2 inches high.
Very accurate work! It probably took longer to build the jig than it will to build the bridge using it. Don't take me wrong - I'm not critizing the use of the jig.
hon30critter Very accurate work! It probably took longer to build the jig than it will to build the bridge using it. Don't take me wrong - I'm not critizing the use of the jig. Dave
Your quite correct Dave, the second bottom went together in literally 15 minutes and the second side went together like nothing. I did enjoy making the jig though and using MEK with the styrene made things move along sooooo much faster.
Santa Fe all the way!Nice work, I'll be following your progress. Suggestion, Sky Blue craft foam board is pretty cheap and I think if you used it to cover the windows it would look nice. Also you can easily make them removable. Keep up the good work!!
Thats actually not a bad idea with the blue foam board and I just happen to have a few sheets kicking around. Will have to see,
I managed to get two bridges built and installed. Cleanup time and back to finishing wiring a couple more tortoise switches and onto track cleaning.
I also had to cookie cut a new incline to the dioramma base as the turnout just wasn't lining up nicely. As well the tunnel portals are in much better positioning.
Puttering along like a slow chicken with his head cut off I managed to get the jmri talking to the digitrax command station, finished off some feeder drops to the buss, and did some cleanup programming in the ds64's. jmri doesnt lie with what is not right so got some board addresses worked out. As well I finally got the ds64 board mounted off the benchwork out of the way, just have to shorten and reattach the wires to each ds64.
May I offer a suggestion............
I have a window similar to the one in the pics. I replaced the white mini blinds with light blue ones, and painted in the backdrop to blend into the window ledge, etc.
It proved to be a good thing to do, and you might want to consider it.
mobilman44 Hi, May I offer a suggestion............ I have a window similar to the one in the pics. I replaced the white mini blinds with light blue ones, and painted in the backdrop to blend into the window ledge, etc. It proved to be a good thing to do, and you might want to consider it.
Thnaks for the suggestion.
After getting the track reworked and tested again I started reworking the corner where there will be a small bit of structures. Please excuse the mess as its a on going work in progress. Random pics. I got an excellent clearance price for this plaster cloth from curry's. I picked up a number of cans. Pulled out the 5 gallon pail of paint I havent used for quite a few years for making my ground goop concoction.
I got an excellent clearance price for this plaster cloth from curry's. I picked up a number of cans. Pulled out the 5 gallon pail of paint I havent used for quite a few years for making my ground goop concoction.
Pulled out the 5 gallon pail of paint I havent used for quite a few years for making my ground goop concoction.
The bridges look really good!
Lots of progress on the layout too. Well done.
Thanks Dave winter is coming.
Four ingredients measured at 1 cup each of celluclay ( paper mache), vermiculite, paint and 1/2 cup white glue. I did mine in a much larger batch to fill the bucket. All ingredients in pail Mix to smooth consistency
All ingredients in pail Mix to smooth consistency
Mix to smooth consistency
It looks like you have a big project ahead of yourself. But I'm sorry if you get offended, but looking at your track, it's hard to believe that all your engines run perfectly well. It looks to me that your track is not completey done. What about the missing ties? You have incomplete branches to your switches.What happens after ballasting? It seems more work has to go into your trackwork. I'm in that group that thinks the track has to be completely done and engines are happy in every direction before I can concentrate on scenery
Joe C
dominic c It looks like you have a big project ahead of yourself. But I'm sorry if you get offended, but looking at your track, it's hard to believe that all your engines run perfectly well. It looks to me that your track is not completey done. What about the missing ties? You have incomplete branches to your switches.What happens after ballasting? It seems more work has to go into your trackwork. I'm in that group that thinks the track has to be completely done and engines are happy in every direction before I can concentrate on scenery Joe C
Joe I never get offeneded so no worries. The main line has been tested extensively for hours and hours and adjusted as needed. I've tested with very small steamers to fairly larger steamers, I had thought steamers would be the bearer of bad track but it was one specific deisel that really showed a couple bad switches that I had to fix. The missing ties will be trimmed down and slid under the rails and in place as I go. I tend not to ballast for at least a year after track has been in place. Scenery is done from the back to front obviously and the area I'm in must be completed before the bridges can be left in place. Branch lines and industry spurs come last as I try to figure out where specifically the structures will go. For me this is a very large layout and because I'm not retired and work 4 and 4 I don't go full steam ahead like many folks as well in the summer months we ride motorcycles.
I've been plugging along in one particular corner and outward from it as it is a deep corner and as we all know we need to build from back to front. Bridges are removed and my vision of a small town on the hill is perhaps starting to get some where.
Transformed the gorge using ground goop, poly fiber, and a bunch of sticks twigs and ground up leaves oh ya and ground foam.Can even see the river bottom again. I'll be fixing up the waterfalls real soon.
I've been working on the little community in the corner, we all know we have to work back to front. I think I will need to make some fences and work on a better game plan for parking area. I also tried my hand at making a new water form for the waterfalls. Took a few days but it did cure clear. I had made up 3 strips so I'll have to peel off another strip and tuck it under the upper level strip and try my hand at some white dry brushing.
double post
Some more progress made.
Rear hill pretty much complete.
Worked on a few more areas, can't put upper bridges back until the areas are finished being mucked up.
Hi Lynn
Just checked out the thread. WOW Man! Its coming along very nicely. You got a lot of real estate. Nice work keep the pics coming.
Mario
FW&RR ry
P.S. Hope you have given some thought as to how to replace/repair the furnace and water heater.
God's Best & Happy Rails to You!
Bing (RIPRR The Route of the Buzzards)
The future: Dead Rail Society
Now no offence but some of you methods seem a bit odd but your outcome is spectacular!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks everyone for the comments. I'll be doing an update on progress in next couple of days.
Here's a bit of an update of where I've been and where I'm heading.First off the scenery is mostly done in the rear upper bridge areas so I was able to reinstall the bridges clean the track and run trains again. I then moved onto another leg of the layout and mounted the dioramma and river and will begin with the curved trestle scene which will have a waterfall dropping off the river and down to a pool, the river will flow through the trestle bents. The trestle will be about 2.5 feet across with the longest bent being about 13 inches long.You can see where I added wood where need for joining scenery using 1x4s or whatever was suitable. I also added ( probably overbuilt) a 2 teir upper and lower for the trestle bents and water down lower, of course I can't do much in this area until trestle is ready to install, suggestion accepted. So for now I have a very sturdy work area. This is the jig I made up for building the bents for the jv models 2016 curved trestle. I've did 4 bents so far, not complete but there are 4. And the strip wood stained. Although I really didn't realize the 2016 kit was meant to have one bent missing to widen the bent distance for a rail or I guess river this is what I plan to do. My instruction don't include the portion where there a gap to be built in I will have to figure that part out.
I then moved onto another leg of the layout and mounted the dioramma and river and will begin with the curved trestle scene which will have a waterfall dropping off the river and down to a pool, the river will flow through the trestle bents. The trestle will be about 2.5 feet across with the longest bent being about 13 inches long.You can see where I added wood where need for joining scenery using 1x4s or whatever was suitable. I also added ( probably overbuilt) a 2 teir upper and lower for the trestle bents and water down lower, of course I can't do much in this area until trestle is ready to install, suggestion accepted. So for now I have a very sturdy work area. This is the jig I made up for building the bents for the jv models 2016 curved trestle. I've did 4 bents so far, not complete but there are 4. And the strip wood stained. Although I really didn't realize the 2016 kit was meant to have one bent missing to widen the bent distance for a rail or I guess river this is what I plan to do. My instruction don't include the portion where there a gap to be built in I will have to figure that part out.
I also added ( probably overbuilt) a 2 teir upper and lower for the trestle bents and water down lower, of course I can't do much in this area until trestle is ready to install, suggestion accepted. So for now I have a very sturdy work area. This is the jig I made up for building the bents for the jv models 2016 curved trestle. I've did 4 bents so far, not complete but there are 4. And the strip wood stained. Although I really didn't realize the 2016 kit was meant to have one bent missing to widen the bent distance for a rail or I guess river this is what I plan to do. My instruction don't include the portion where there a gap to be built in I will have to figure that part out.
This is the jig I made up for building the bents for the jv models 2016 curved trestle. I've did 4 bents so far, not complete but there are 4. And the strip wood stained. Although I really didn't realize the 2016 kit was meant to have one bent missing to widen the bent distance for a rail or I guess river this is what I plan to do. My instruction don't include the portion where there a gap to be built in I will have to figure that part out.
I'm still working on getting the bents spacing figured out, I've got it down to 2- 2.5 inches apart for the most part. May have to make somemore and perhaps shorten a couple of the longest ones. I find this process is like structure positioning, you have to keep repositioning until it feels right.
I also received a supply of ME bridge flex track in the mail. I think it may be time to finish up the bents and start on the stringers.
Bents are all made up all 19 of them or actually 20 as one will be built in above the river. I used a couple sections of construction paper to trace the rail heads for the stringers to be glued together on. Bents hanging where they be posions for the trestle.
I used a couple sections of construction paper to trace the rail heads for the stringers to be glued together on. Bents hanging where they be posions for the trestle.
Bents hanging where they be posions for the trestle.
wickman
I see an issue with the stringers, but it may be too late to correct. It appears you cut the pieces for the inside of the curve the same length as those for the outside. As a result, the joints for the inside stringers will not fall atop a bent like the outside ones will. I didn't mention the need for the the two lengths in my advice on the other thread, so to the extent I may have sowed confusion on the point - my bad. I was figuring the kit instructions and/or plans would have shown the joints.
Rob Spangler
wp8thsub wickman I see an issue with the stringers, but it may be too late to correct. It appears you cut the pieces for the inside of the curve the same length as those for the outside. As a result, the joints for the inside stringers will not fall atop a bent like the outside ones will. I didn't mention the need for the the two lengths in my advice on the other thread, so to the extent I may have sowed confusion on the point - my bad. I was figuring the kit instructions and/or plans would have shown the joints.
Thanks Rob I see what you mean I think. So your saying when I centre the bents on the seams of the stringers the outside bent caps will line up as obviously I will be trying to line up every 2 inches which is the length of each stringer where as the outside bent will sit on a seam and the inside of the bent will not sit on the seam? Hopefully this doesn't cause any issues as long as the track rail is over the inside\outside rail and the bent caps line up ok. Unfortuneatly it was last nite at 3am when I set the rail on the stringers permanently so no adjustments can be made.
wickmanSo your saying when I centre the bents on the seams of the stringers the outside bent caps will line up as obviously I will be trying to line up every 2 inches which is the length of each stringer where as the outside bent will sit on a seam and the inside of the bent will not sit on the seam? Hopefully this doesn't cause any issues as long as the track rail is over the inside\outside rail and the bent caps line up ok. Unfortuneatly it was last nite at 3am when I set the rail on the stringers permanently so no adjustments can be made.
Yup that's it. This is an aesthetic issue for an HO scale trestle more than a structural one. Hopefully it will be hard to notice once you have everything installed.
If its just aesthetics issue I can handle that, Im real good at hiding stuff.
Any advice once I go to install the bents? Perhaps start in the middle or end ? Glue one bent checking for straightness then the next and the supports maybe?
wickmanAny advice once I go to install the bents? Perhaps start in the middle or end ? Glue one bent checking for straightness then the next and the supports maybe?
Assuming the kit instructions don't suggest a sequence, that sounds reasonable. Pick a spot and work from there.
Thanks Rob kinda sounded good to me as well and the instructions really don't say much.
Trial fit for bent over river, this won't work need to do some trimming.I hate math. Rail was attched to stringers using pliobond and weighted down, left it for 48 hours.
Rail was attched to stringers using pliobond and weighted down, left it for 48 hours.
And the fun begins
Thank you for sharing all of the trestle construction details. I have a similar project in my future. This has been very educational.
hon30critter Lynn: Thank you for sharing all of the trestle construction details. I have a similar project in my future. This has been very educational. Dave
Your quite welcome Dave, its my pleasure and has also been very educational for myself.
Moving right along with the trestle, four days off so I should be able to finish this off I hope.
Just have to finish off supports.
Very impressive!
Don't drop it when you turn it right side up!
hon30critter Very impressive! Don't drop it when you turn it right side up! Dave
Thanks Dave. Funny thing when carried it upstairs to work on in our spare room it darn near slipped right out of my hands. Its getting some weight to it. Should be able to finish it tomorrow depending whether I decide to put my self through the torture of adding nbws or not. Also need to decide if I'm putting cross braces.
Was up late last nite and pretty much got the trestle complete. I'm still undecided on whether I will add sway braces. Also attempted to even pickup a nbw and needless to say my mobility skills and sight are nothing what they use to be. May attempt to cut the trestle into the existing roadbed today to at least have that part done and have the trestle removeable for scene work.
Cut out the roadbed for a trial fit and once the mainline was lined up and fit nicely I started on the bent pillars.
That's one fine looking trestle bridge.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Thanks Bear
With the bent supports in place and bridge roughly in place I 'm going to see if I can tie the ends of the bench work into the scene. As you can see I also removed the bottom diagonal braces, looked too goofy for me. Will add sway braces when I get somemore wood.Bridge sitting in place I used card stock to give a rough in for the hill over the bent supports. white glue and staples. Bridge back in place for test fit. Just enough clearance under the bents to add plaster cloth and build up a bit. And now the fun begins to try to tie the benchwork into the scene, I also raised the bottom base.
I used card stock to give a rough in for the hill over the bent supports. white glue and staples. Bridge back in place for test fit. Just enough clearance under the bents to add plaster cloth and build up a bit. And now the fun begins to try to tie the benchwork into the scene, I also raised the bottom base.
Bridge back in place for test fit. Just enough clearance under the bents to add plaster cloth and build up a bit. And now the fun begins to try to tie the benchwork into the scene, I also raised the bottom base.
And now the fun begins to try to tie the benchwork into the scene, I also raised the bottom base.
Is it me or is this the way a crazy person figures things out? Tempted to get some grocery bags stuffed with crumpled paper for support and stuff them under the paper and start putting down plaster cloth.
I did get started with joining up the areas using cardboard strips and hot glue ( ouch a few times) I'm only concerned with the trestle being supported well which it is and the rest is just for looks. I'm still not sure how I will do the outside perimeter of the benchwork but that will have to come eventually. I may have to do it the extra heavy duty way and build the ends of the trestle and lower base out to the existing benchwork, more wood but at least it would be even if I decide to use the hardboard.
The trestle looks really good!
This is the first time I have seen all the intricate steps involved in both building and installing a trestle. Very educating! Thanks.
Glad your seeing something new Dave. I wish I had seen somethng like this before I started, real learning curve but it is fun.
I got the waterfall area buttoned up pretty tight with a nice cardboard weave and started on some plaster cloth. I'll give the plaster cloth a skim of plaster when the entire area is complete.
Its been a fairly productive couple days.
This is what I came up with for boxing in the scene. After adding a bit more cardboard strips it was time to get at the plaster cloth somemore. Can;t go wrong with this stuff I thought I'd try some plaster cloth on the corners just to smooth the edges , came out sort of ok Testing the water fall which I had misplaced and it showed back up Test fitting the trestle. Shows level although bents base to risers clearance is something I will have to figure out. Next step will be applying a skim of tuf coat to the hill area to give strength before applying rock molds.
After adding a bit more cardboard strips it was time to get at the plaster cloth somemore. Can;t go wrong with this stuff I thought I'd try some plaster cloth on the corners just to smooth the edges , came out sort of ok Testing the water fall which I had misplaced and it showed back up Test fitting the trestle. Shows level although bents base to risers clearance is something I will have to figure out. Next step will be applying a skim of tuf coat to the hill area to give strength before applying rock molds.
After adding a bit more cardboard strips it was time to get at the plaster cloth somemore.
Can;t go wrong with this stuff I thought I'd try some plaster cloth on the corners just to smooth the edges , came out sort of ok Testing the water fall which I had misplaced and it showed back up Test fitting the trestle. Shows level although bents base to risers clearance is something I will have to figure out. Next step will be applying a skim of tuf coat to the hill area to give strength before applying rock molds.
Can;t go wrong with this stuff
I thought I'd try some plaster cloth on the corners just to smooth the edges , came out sort of ok
Testing the water fall which I had misplaced and it showed back up Test fitting the trestle. Shows level although bents base to risers clearance is something I will have to figure out. Next step will be applying a skim of tuf coat to the hill area to give strength before applying rock molds.
Testing the water fall which I had misplaced and it showed back up
Test fitting the trestle. Shows level although bents base to risers clearance is something I will have to figure out. Next step will be applying a skim of tuf coat to the hill area to give strength before applying rock molds.
Test fitting the trestle. Shows level although bents base to risers clearance is something I will have to figure out.
Next step will be applying a skim of tuf coat to the hill area to give strength before applying rock molds.
Spent the last couple days moving forward on the trestle area. I still have a very long way to go. I layed down some ground goop for the trestle to get it seated right and saran wrapped the bent leg footings, I sit it in place and built up where it showed a space and once it sit nice and rail was level inward I left it in place overnite then removed and replace then shook some ws dirt and ground foam on it then a shake of sifted dirt.The rock castings will have to wait a few days before getting painted as there still holding water. New hills added to break the flatness. Another mound and dirt road started Bridge in place for the photo
New hills added to break the flatness. Another mound and dirt road started Bridge in place for the photo
Another mound and dirt road started Bridge in place for the photo
Bridge in place for the photo
Wow! Lynn, how far along on this trestle were you when you started adking questions about how to build it? You seem to be a very fast builder! I think I took at least a month to build my trestle which was much smaller than yours. Great Job! Are those plaster rock castings, or something else?
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
NP2626 Wow! Lynn, how far along on this trestle were you when you started adking questions about how to build it? You seem to be a very fast builder! I think I took at least a month to build my trestlen which was much smaller than yours. Great Job! Are those plaster rock castings, or something else?
Wow! Lynn, how far along on this trestle were you when you started adking questions about how to build it? You seem to be a very fast builder! I think I took at least a month to build my trestlen which was much smaller than yours. Great Job! Are those plaster rock castings, or something else?
Thanks Mark it only took me a couple weeks from start to finish . All castings are fresh plaster cast.
I mixed up a fresh batch of my ground goop and I'm attempting to get into the mood of scenicing up the trestle area. No ground goop in the next 2 shots but more a trial run with building up in layers. I also added some color to the rock work.
No ground goop in the next 2 shots but more a trial run with building up in layers. I also added some color to the rock work.
Got a bit of time in on scenery. I reached as far as I could and will have to work from the other end.Looks like I need to spend some time making somemore ground foam and blended debri.
Puttering along with the scenery. I was hoping to pour the water but its just not practical having to get the next area joined in first.
I also added retaining walls to the river banks under the trestle. This will be the next area to be joined up
This will be the next area to be joined up
Great work, wish I had your creative talent.
HO60s Great work, wish I had your creative talent.
Thanks for the compliment.
I finally got around to filling in the area a bit, there will be a road going up the hill and over a bridge. Not sure what I'm doing with the lower area, its a bit too flat for my liking.
The trestle area scenery is outstanding!
hon30critter Lynn: The trestle area scenery is outstanding! Dave
Thanks Dave
I wasn't happy with the terrain so got to work building up the area. Didn't take much to build up the hill.And overall viewA few buildings looking for a homeStill wasn't happy with most rear, so a few additional mounds to the most rear area.A shot up the river to give an idea of elevation of built up are.
Did a bit more work into the corner to get the area filled in. I tried useing some new to me stuff which is called tuf coat for mold making and not really liking it as it doesn't seem to take the ws colors like the pop does. Just need to do the raods a bit more and come back with bushes and trees. I'll have to go back in a few days and try to color up the rocks a bit more. I also attempted to attach the industry spur to the turnout and found the turnout rail was way out of guage, damn loose rail, so changed out the turnout to another and all good except I need to redo the throw wire for the tortoise.
One of the two layout rooms is pretty much done. Just need to workout how to trim the tops down for the terrain.Sure makes a major impact on the layout and will make it much simpler to fill in from the edge of layout inward.
A bit more done. I find you really have to figure things out with putting this stuff up, have to make sure there are no seams where there is any stress.I will need to add on to the bench work in the near future so I can finish off to the wall. This will be the turntable area.
Thats lookin really good Wickman,Looks like you have a pretty cool collection of buildings too. I'm also liking the way you have stayed motivated and are proceeding on this big project in a timely manner. As for myself I keep getting distracted by other modeling projects suac as ships for the past year. Bill in Idaho
reklein Thats lookin really good Wickman,Looks like you have a pretty cool collection of buildings too. I'm also liking the way you have stayed motivated and are proceeding on this big project in a timely manner. As for myself I keep getting distracted by other modeling projects suac as ships for the past year. Bill in Idaho
Thanks Bill. If it were spring/summer my wife and I both ride old Harley's and we would be out on the road and not playing in the layout room so on my days off I plow forward. I also have an old 63 Vespa in the shop I've been restoring thats calling for attention.
Last section installed until I do the last section of benchwork.Now to decide on terrain height and trim down the fascia where its needed. Time to do a cleanup and reorganize for doing some jig saw cutting.
Did some work to get the space between the sofit and rail filled in and found that the plaster cloth itself gave a pretty good foundation to start to build up the terrain. Been on holidays in nice warm Cuba so here's a bit of an update now with the process to getting to the plaster cloth base.
Here's a bit more of the update with scenery base done starting from the trestle end and structures also in place. Obviously I forgot to move some buildings. I also started placing structures to get the feel for the wharf area which will be in an L shape. I still have to cut down the fascia for the water edge , just not sure if there will be slight banks on the fascia edge and or how high yet? I think this could be the sawmill area, still up in the air though.
That's coming along nicely. Very well done - thanks for the detailed posts and photos.
Bit of an update as fall is on us and it RR time again. These are some pics of my accomplishments throughout the year when time allowed.
Boat repair I built
pics of the trestle installed and water poured along with waterfalls, I also did a fresh pour on the river above. Walls up in wharf area
pics of the trestle installed and water poured along with waterfalls, I also did a fresh pour on the river above.
Walls up in wharf area
Nice Lynn!
The boat shop is really well done. The weathering is very realistic.
The trestle is great, however, its still floating in mid air!. Must be a magic trestle!
Sorry, I'm not being critical at all. I'm absolutely certain that you intend to fill in the gaps below the bents once the rest of the scene is finished.
Your work is excellent.
No prob Dave , you are quite right for the most part the bent bottoms are flush and solid but there are some that need attention,Im not quite sure how I'm going to finish them and the area off but they will be getting my full attention very soon.
Is the trestle still removable or is it fixed in place?
If it is still removable then perhaps you could form bases for the 'floating' bents with sculptamold or plaster and then set the trestle back in place while the material is still wet.
If the trestle is fixed in place how about attaching a tube to the end of a white glue bottle so you can reach into the narrow spaces. White glue would take several applications to build up enough to fill the gaps. Maybe someone can suggest something thicker which would fill the gaps better.
hon30critter Lynn: Is the trestle still removable or is it fixed in place? If it is still removable then perhaps you could form bases for the 'floating' bents with sculptamold or plaster and then set the trestle back in place while the material is still wet. If the trestle is fixed in place how about attaching a tube to the end of a white glue bottle so you can reach into the narrow spaces. White glue would take several applications to build up enough to fill the gaps. Maybe someone can suggest something thicker which would fill the gaps better. Dave
Thanks Dave it is removable but also wired in place but that is a good idea with the sculptamold or I can use ground goop and lift a bit on the bents or simply disconnect the rail ends and do it the easy way.
Ive been working on a train station for the wharf area.
Wow Lynn you were busy while I was off the grid! And I totally missed the trestle project while you were going at it. My (much smaller) trestle was also built from the JV kit and I really enjoyed the build. Sort of a cross between a craftsman kit and scratch-building, with just enough instructions to get you going.
Getting all the bents on the ground and keeping the bridge removable is challenging with a trestle since there are so many legs. And in most of the pics I've seen the vertical poles were just driven into the ground- that's the way the one I found at the golf course last week was built. Even with the heavy creosote coating it seems like the wood would rot away rather quickly but that bridge is still being used, so maybe not.
I would try sculptamold or some of your ground goop if it is "gooey" enough to work and still get a good hard set. Maybe you can lay down some wax paper strips on top of the sculptamold before pressing the bridge in place, and then slide the strips out when the sculptamold is cured? I never tried the wax paper trick with sculptamold so I would test first, but not much really sticks to it very well and I keep a roll around for this sort of thing.
Huntington Junction - Freelance based on the B&O and C&O in coal country before the merger... doing it my way. Now working on phase 3. - Walt
For photos and more: http://www.wkhobbies.com/model-railroad/
Thanks Walt I will get back to the trestle when I get back to working on the layout. I'm just finishing up the train station and I need to complete a few of he other structures that will be in the wharf area.
The station is neat if a bit unusual.
Nicely done.
Thanks Dave.
Cougar Flat Station is complete... finally.
The station looks really good with all the details in place.
Where did you get the lamps that are on the posts and the building, and do they work?
Thanks Dave , everything you see came with the kit.
I take it then that the lights are non-functional.
Only functional as a.decoration.
Thought I'd give an update of the couple structures I started a few years back that I finally dedicated some time to completing.
Starting to work on a new scene and completing this will give me better ideas for joining into the wharf scene.
I raised the dio up and put in place as well made the base for the mountains. Mountain form almost there Not sure yet if the foam board will work.
I raised the dio up and put in place as well made the base for the mountains.
Mountain form almost there Not sure yet if the foam board will work.
Mountain form almost there
Not sure yet if the foam board will work.
Time for some fun,
Doesn't take long Before I go any further I need to make a portal.
Doesn't take long
Before I go any further I need to make a portal.
I wasn't happy with the way this area was going so decided to work in a deep slow moving river which will flow into the port.
After roughing in river base I filled in over the rock which the river will flow from . And plaster clothed in the banks using glued cardboard strips and basicly crumpled up newspaper or what ever was handy.
After roughing in river base I filled in over the rock which the river will flow from .
And plaster clothed in the banks using glued cardboard strips and basicly crumpled up newspaper or what ever was handy.
A bit more of the progress, rock molds applied and I used a brown wash which will mark the locations that vegetation will grow. After the brown wash I applied ground goop and some fine sand/gravel.
My 5 gallon supply of brown latex paint. Wash made up The goop
My 5 gallon supply of brown latex paint.
Wash made up The goop
Wash made up
The goop
I'm new to this thread and bowled over by your work. I'm certain I could duplicate the pile under the layout in the earlier pics.
I missed the recipe for your goop. It looks a bit like the stuff they were demo'ing at Timonium a cotton product that was supposedly reusable if it dried out. It was $$$ I thought.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Hi Lynn:
The rocks look great!.
Dave , Henry thanks for the compliments. Henry the goop really isn't that expensive, I tend to go through quite a bit of it although I sometimes wonder why I use it as by the time I'm done the scene you can barely see the ground goop.
I dove right into the scenery, my favorite part. Still have some work to go but I think I have a good start.
I also tried a couple trees I had kicking around. I also tried the portal and retaining wall for fit, going to need some work and possibly retaining wall needs shortening.
I also tried a couple trees I had kicking around.
I also tried the portal and retaining wall for fit, going to need some work and possibly retaining wall needs shortening.
I got the industry track in place and glued down via ground goop.
Started on the river system with rocks and ground goop and filled in behind area where boat repair will go. and track out to valance
Started on the river system with rocks and ground goop
and filled in behind area where boat repair will go. and track out to valance
and filled in behind area where boat repair will go.
and track out to valance
Catching up with where I'm at , sorry about the poor pic quality
This is the new bridge I built and with the nbw's and supports and cutaway for bridge , the blocks will be used for the brick work I'm using ME bridge track You can get the idea with this pic And in place , this is the first time I've used scuptamold, sure is nice , also learned I can used my earth coloured paint watered down to colour the scuptamold
This is the new bridge I built
and with the nbw's and supports and cutaway for bridge , the blocks will be used for the brick work I'm using ME bridge track You can get the idea with this pic And in place , this is the first time I've used scuptamold, sure is nice , also learned I can used my earth coloured paint watered down to colour the scuptamold
and with the nbw's and supports
and cutaway for bridge , the blocks will be used for the brick work I'm using ME bridge track You can get the idea with this pic And in place , this is the first time I've used scuptamold, sure is nice , also learned I can used my earth coloured paint watered down to colour the scuptamold
and cutaway for bridge , the blocks will be used for the brick work
I'm using ME bridge track You can get the idea with this pic And in place , this is the first time I've used scuptamold, sure is nice , also learned I can used my earth coloured paint watered down to colour the scuptamold
I'm using ME bridge track
You can get the idea with this pic And in place , this is the first time I've used scuptamold, sure is nice , also learned I can used my earth coloured paint watered down to colour the scuptamold
You can get the idea with this pic
And in place , this is the first time I've used scuptamold, sure is nice , also learned I can used my earth coloured paint watered down to colour the scuptamold
Wow you are blazing along!
I see you decided on stone wall abutments. Curious- what are they made from and did you make them yourself?
Hi Walt yes I made them myself from a mold from plaster of paris. Whenever I have pop left over I pour the extra in a wall mold so there always ready.
After doing another cleaning I redid the water base
and more ground goop and rocks Started working on the access to the Boat Repair via steps and completed The water looks wet because again I added more paint after going over the edges again to make sure they were sealed.
and more ground goop
and rocks Started working on the access to the Boat Repair via steps and completed The water looks wet because again I added more paint after going over the edges again to make sure they were sealed.
and rocks
Started working on the access to the Boat Repair via steps and completed The water looks wet because again I added more paint after going over the edges again to make sure they were sealed.
Started working on the access to the Boat Repair via steps
and completed The water looks wet because again I added more paint after going over the edges again to make sure they were sealed.
and completed
The water looks wet because again I added more paint after going over the edges again to make sure they were sealed.
Ok this post will get me pretty much to where I'm at as of today.
Gearing up for barnacles
water and white glue same stuff I make up for scenic cement And finally water is poured, river is very slowly seeping down into the port so port will be deeper than first anticipated but no big Left to right top of river. You will also see a little fishing boat I've been working on in my spare time for the port.
water and white glue same stuff I make up for scenic cement
And finally water is poured, river is very slowly seeping down into the port so port will be deeper than first anticipated but no big Left to right top of river. You will also see a little fishing boat I've been working on in my spare time for the port.
And finally water is poured, river is very slowly seeping down into the port so port will be deeper than first anticipated but no big
Left to right top of river. You will also see a little fishing boat I've been working on in my spare time for the port.
Here is a bit of an update, I decided to add some texture to the water in the port scene, after speaking with Troels Kirk I decided to try his method using extra heavy liquitex gel. Others I have tried I got bubbles but with this I can't say that there are obvious bubbles.
After doing the water texture I decided to see I needed a break from this area of the layout to let the mind whirl a bit for the next move. If I could cleanup the two layout rooms it may help but of course the only way to clean up was to use the foamboard and wood I have which just happens to be the culprit of the mess. So I have to make a mess before I can cleanup. I made an executive decision to move onto the adjacent room , finishing the needed benchwork addition and trying to comeup with a plan for structure and terrain placement. This is the beginning of the mess.
After doing the water texture I decided to see I needed a break from this area of the layout to let the mind whirl a bit for the next move. If I could cleanup the two layout rooms it may help but of course the only way to clean up was to use the foamboard and wood I have which just happens to be the culprit of the mess. So I have to make a mess before I can cleanup. I made an executive decision to move onto the adjacent room , finishing the needed benchwork addition and trying to comeup with a plan for structure and terrain placement.
This is the beginning of the mess.
I sure like the town in the horseshoe curve with some nice looking buildings. Sometimes I think it would be nice to live in a place like that. In fact sometimes when I am visualizing scenery, I try to think, if I would like to be in miniature and be able to walk the streets or the roads in that scene, even the houses, sitting on the front porch.
Maybe eating at the White Castle,
Or the Greyhound Bus Station. I can still remember when those two places were the best places to eat.
Robert Sylvester
Newberry-Columbia, SC
Masterful scenery work, Wickman! I particularly like the way that you've modeled the rocks and water.
Russ
Modeling the early '50s Erie in Paterson, NJ. Here's the link to my railroad postcard collection: https://railroadpostcards.blogspot.com/