I have an unopened case of HO cork roadbed that is approximately 10 years old. Would it be OK to use?
I have never used cork that old. I have some that old on my layout, and am sure that others have older.
It is either good or garbage.
Try using a section of it and you will soon know if it is good or not.
Dave
couldn't you open it and see what kind of shape it is in?
Charlie
Cork will dry out and become brittle over an extended period of time. Take out one piece and see if it can be formed into a curve without breaking. Soaking in water overnight might help even if it has dried out.
What is wrong with using the cork on straight sections???
It will be burried in Ballast anyway!
My layout is over 10 years old and the cork is still good!
I never could understand this analigy about cork!
Where does everyone come up with these ideas?
Now I have some cork that is 30 years old - that I use for track cleaning and YES - it is brittle
BUT that was before they began adding the rubber to keep the cork from getting brittle!
Another Model Railroad Urban Myth!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Same here some of mine is over 12 years old, I used it in my yard made it look like the real thing. Some is from my old layout before we moved I thru it in the tub filled it with hot water and all the ballast was washed off by morning. I put an old rag over the drain to catch the ballast and reused it in my yard. I recycled about 80% of my old layout. Jim.
So long as it doesn't crack or otherwise have issues when using it, I'd use it straight from the box. The oldest on my layout is ~20 years and I've had no issues at all.
It's not quite a 1:1 comparison, but remember that incredibly expensive wine relies on what substance to protect it for years? Yep, a cork.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Myth got started because some people had sunlight hitting it, it dosen't like that for long periods of time. Lots of myths out there with some truth in them but not for most situations.
I would go with Cacole's suggestion. Roadbed cork, does have some rubber in it. That's one of the reason's when new, it bends easily.
Take Care!
Frank
Mike:
The wine cork analogy only works if you store the bottle on its side to keep the cork moist. Maybe we should flood our layouts every once in a while to protect the cork!
Sorry, I'll never learn when to keep my mouth shut. No offense intended.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I just went to the far end of my attic where I store many railroad supplies, although my attic is finished and temp. controlled, I had stored there 3/4 of a box of Midwest Products HO scale cork, the box has one end opened. I took a piece out, took one side half off and conformed it to any radius I wanted to without crumbling/breaking, it sat there better than 15yrs.
So unless yours was stored in some ungodly conditions, I don't see any reason why you could not use it.
Dave, I got a chuckle!
Santa Fe all the way!Thanks for the replies. I hate to pitch a whole case of cork, but on the other hand, I'd hate to use it, then have it only last a short while before crumbling.
Santa Fe
Just check the cork to see if it is still flexable !
And besides where is this notion that the CORK will crumble???????
It will hold its shape forever - ONCE the cork is down on the layout and the Ballast is glued on!
There is NO curmbling of flaking it just sits there!!
The cork I have that is over 25 years old and it is the OLD type - before they began putting a LOT of Rubber in the formula to maintain the flexability. It is still usable as it is hard now and only good for straight sections.
I mostly use it to mount Caboos Ind Ground Throws on as the Throws are mounted along the edge of the layout to keep the Arms from reaching into the scenery!
I also use the OLD Cork as track cleaning pieces - I cut them about an inch wire and will use them to rub the track after I paint the rails. So there is a lot of good uses for the OLD Cork.
Of course - YOU can do what you want - and throw out perfictally good cork and purchase new - but don't complain about hi prices then!
Check the stuff out - while the responses here go to the extreams - only YOU can make the decision as to what you do!
Santa Fe all the way! I have an unopened case of HO cork roadbed that is approximately 10 years old. Would it be OK to use?
I have some cork left from my last layout - it's at least 15 to 20 years old. It's a little stiffer than the new cork I just bought at Kleins, but I plan on using it. Why not? I can't find a reason. As long as I can shape it and it appears to be ok for the curving to 32-inches which is my minmum radius.
The cork I have that is over 25 years old and it is the OLD type - before they began putting a LOT of Rubber in the formula to maintain the flexability. It is still usable as it is hard now and only good for straight sections. BOB H - Clarion, PA
I have read about the "lot of rubber" cork. In fact the owner of one of the companies came into a recent thread and from what I recall, he didn't say that they used less cork be help it maintain flexibility, I think it was more a shortage issue? Since I have seen this discussion, I bought some cork at Kleins recently and was wondering if it would look different. I put it along side the cork I have that is probably 20 years old and it looked about the same to me!
Cheers, Jim
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 Santa Fe all the way! I have an unopened case of HO cork roadbed that is approximately 10 years old. Would it be OK to use? I have some cork left from my last layout - it's at least 15 to 20 years old. It's a little stiffer than the new cork I just bought at Kleins, but I plan on using it. Why not? I can't find a reason. As long as I can shape it and it appears to be ok for the curving to 32-inches which is my minmum radius. The cork I have that is over 25 years old and it is the OLD type - before they began putting a LOT of Rubber in the formula to maintain the flexability. It is still usable as it is hard now and only good for straight sections. BOB H - Clarion, PA I have read about the "lot of rubber" cork. In fact the owner of one of the companies came into a recent thread and from what I recall, he didn't say that they used less cork be help it maintain flexibility, I think it was more a shortage issue? Since I have seen this discussion, I bought some cork at Kleins recently and was wondering if it would look different. I put it along side the cork I have that is probably 20 years old and it looked about the same to me! Cheers, Jim
rrebell Midwest fixed the problem right away, it was a New Coke moment for them.
Midwest fixed the problem right away, it was a New Coke moment for them.
By the comments I read by the manufacturer, there was no mention of a fixing of a problem. Rather it was more an acknowledgement that despite the change in formulation, the product was still as good as it was before.
I was given a few pieces of cork roadbed twisted like a pretzel. I soaked the cork in water, placed them on paper towels placed a 2 x 4 on top with a few weights, waited two days and the cork was ready for use. On curves I suggest you put in some kerf cuts with an Exacto knife, glue the cork down and use push pins to keep it ini place for a couple of hours.
I think even my 15-20 year old cork still has enough flex to curve to 30-inch radius without kerf cuts. I only do kerf's when I cut strips of rigid material like Homasote, so I can bend it. I attach my cork per the old Atlas and John Armstrong instructions with Atlas track nails. Again, I can pull it up if it needs changing before I make things permanant - saves me money not to have to destroy track or cork by not gluing it down in the early stages. Others may find it saves them money to follow this method vs. glue/adhesive.
I had cork go a good 13 years on my last layout. Its all painted, and once the stuff is put down, I just don't think the age matters all that much.
If what you have won't easily do curves, then use it for tangent trackage.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
davidmurray I have never used cork that old. I have some that old on my layout, and am sure that others have older. It is either good or garbage. Try using a section of it and you will soon know if it is good or not. Dave
I have had a box of cork go bad in the box after about 10 years. It dried up and crumbled when I tried to use it. Like Dave said, you will know as soon as you try to use it.
The cork roadbed also crumbled under a hand laid turnout that was laid by spiking into the cork. I found out when I tried to fix the turnout, which had become a source of derailments due to the crumbling cork no longer holding spikes and rails in correct alignment.
I learned (the hard way) that hand laying on cork was not a good idea, because cork is not stable in the long term. Those that seal the cork by ballasting or other means will certainly get a longer life out of the cork than those who leave it bare in a dry climate.
As a result of my experiences, I don't use cork any more. Homasote, wood veneer, and other materials are more stable in the long term.
just my thoughts and experiences
Fred W
fwright I have had a box of cork go bad in the box after about 10 years. It dried up and crumbled when I tried to use it. Like Dave said, you will know as soon as you try to use it. The cork roadbed also crumbled under a hand laid turnout that was laid by spiking into the cork. I found out when I tried to fix the turnout, which had become a source of derailments due to the crumbling cork no longer holding spikes and rails in correct alignment. I learned (the hard way) that hand laying on cork was not a good idea, because cork is not stable in the long term. Those that seal the cork by ballasting or other means will certainly get a longer life out of the cork than those who leave it bare in a dry climate. As a result of my experiences, I don't use cork any more. Homasote, wood veneer, and other materials are more stable in the long term. just my thoughts and experiences Fred W
Fred
Not tryiong to hijack this thread BUT!
I don't understand the statement about the hand laid turnout and spiking into the cork?
Every turnout I have ever made or seen uses the very short spikes that JUST goes into the ties!
The ties are GLUED to the base (Homasote - cork - foam) and the spikes never reach the base.
Are you using really long nails to hold the rail?
If that is the case - then it is no wonder you found the bad cork.
If the Ties were glued to the base material and the short spikes were doing the holding of the rail then the only problem would be the spikes NOT holding the rail and having come loose in the ties.
It wouldn't be bothered by the cork as everything was glued together - ties glues to the cork.
Unless you didn't glue the ties to the cork - in that case I can see why you had a problem!
In my particular case, the ties were glued down. Most HO spikes go through the tie and into the roadbed. HO ties are in general too thin to support spikes alone holding the rail in place (rail has to be glued or soldered). That is why Homasote is loved by hand layers - it holds and accepts spikes well. In my case, the cork literally crumbled, no longer holding the glued ties in alignment.
In larger scales, especially On3, the thicker ties are sufficient to hold the spikes, and spikes do not need to go into the roadbed.
I have also worked on the track on a friend's module last month. He does not glue down his ties, and his roadbed is cork. After a few tries at spiking some track, I told him I was gluing his ties down, or he could get somebody else to spike his rail (HOn3 code 70).
just my experiences
I refer to comments on a forum, not coments for general release, don't know how much of the bad stuff got out there but it was bad as far as being able to sand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I keep my excess cork in a sealed mailing tube. Always there when I need some and never a problem using it. Doug
I read once that "glycerin" revitalizes old cork.