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building interior lighting

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
building interior lighting
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 18, 2004 7:58 PM
what is the best method for lighting the interior of buildings? I have about 15 buildings already built, with the roofs attached - with a foam base, can lights be routed up thru the foam into the buildins, and can it be done so the bulbs can be replaced if they burn out? Do you permanently attach your buildings to the layout, or leave them loose so you can get at the lights? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • Member since
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  • From: US
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Posted by Javern on Monday, October 18, 2004 8:02 PM
I dont permanatly attatch my buildings, I make a foundation out of styrene and set buildings on that. I buy some cheapo low voltage lights online in bulk and use them inside my buildings, some I wire in series others alone. I use low voltage which results in longer bulb life
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 19, 2004 2:45 PM
First rule of themb is that every bulb WILL burn out. For most of my lighted buildings I use a "sticky" glue that is not permanent for attaching them to foundation or layout "ground", thus I can pull them off to replace bulbs but they stay nicely inplace otherwise. However, another option, and one that I have also used successfully, is to stick a piece of brass tubing up through your foam and stick the bulb up through that.

Also, be sure that you have black cardboard or black paint on the inside so the whole building doesn't glow.
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Posted by jhugart on Tuesday, October 19, 2004 4:01 PM
Take a look at http://www.ngineering.com/ for some LEDs that might serve your lighting needs. They are less likely to burn out than a grain of whatever incandescent.
  • Member since
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  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Posted by Seamonster on Saturday, October 23, 2004 3:49 PM
I have the buildings permanently attached on my N scale layout with lighting inside almost all of them. Before I attach the building, I drill a hole through the layout where I want the lamp to come up inside the building. I lenghten the bulb's leads if necessary and fasten it to the top of a thin wood dowel. The hole is just big enough to pass the bulb on the dowel through it. With the bulb lit, I poke it up from underneath and adjust its height until the light looks right, then jam a little wedge into the hole to hold the dowel in place. The lamp's leads are soldered to a 2-point terminal strip. If I have to replace the lamp, I just pull out the wedge, pull down the dowel and put a new bulb on it. I haven't had any come loose and fall out yet. I have some buildings with multiple bulbs in them, in different rooms on the same floor and on different floors of a two-storey building.

Yes, it's very important to make sure all the cracks in the building are light tight and to paint the interior walls black if they won't show through the windows, otherwise the building will glow like something out of a grade-B horror movie. You can make room dividers out of black-painted styrene or cardboard. Do be careful to keep the bulbs away from the walls. They can get hot enough to melt plastic and maybe even ignite cardboard. I operate my 12 volt lighting bulbs from 10 volts A.C. and they barely get warm to the touch but there is very little reduction in the light output.

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Friday, October 29, 2004 8:38 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Seamonster

I have the buildings permanently attached on my N scale layout with lighting inside almost all of them. Before I attach the building, I drill a hole through the layout where I want the lamp to come up inside the building. I lenghten the bulb's leads if necessary and fasten it to the top of a thin wood dowel. The hole is just big enough to pass the bulb on the dowel through it. With the bulb lit, I poke it up from underneath and adjust its height until the light looks right, then jam a little wedge into the hole to hold the dowel in place. The lamp's leads are soldered to a 2-point terminal strip. If I have to replace the lamp, I just pull out the wedge, pull down the dowel and put a new bulb on it. I haven't had any come loose and fall out yet. I have some buildings with multiple bulbs in them, in different rooms on the same floor and on different floors of a two-storey building.


I feel seamonster has said it all, great idea on the N scale light installs. I guess it would work for any scale if buildings were fixed. In HO I prefer to have buildings removable, easy for mainainence or repairs, to scenery, trackwork etc. I use foundations made of styrene, wood or plaster castings. Small dowels tapered at the top are perfect for locating pins. The above metioned building preparation really helps for that realistic look.
Bob K.
]

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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