HO Coupler Installation

[Howardr]

Hi all,

Newbie getting started question regarding couplers.

I'm searching around looking for instructions and help in replacing horn hook couplers with the new Kadee and/or McHenery couplers.

Much of the reading I've found show some pictures and is short on information.

I guess what I'm looking for is a 'How To Do It', step by step publication, if any exists. I hate to start killing off my freight and passenger cars by making mistakes.

I have tried my local hobby shop but even after telling them that I don't care if one car is damaged they couldn't do anything for me. In fact he sold me couplers that are to long for the RIV/AHM passengers cars.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

[Anonymous]

Maybe this would help a little .....

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html

And maybe here .....

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page352.htm

I'm a newbie, too
Jim

[cwclark]

body mounting the couplers is a good way to install them...you are going to need some speciality tools also...you will need a kadee height gauge or an NMRA gauge to get your couplers lined up to the right height..you will also need kadee coupler adjustment pliers ...I usually cut out the stock gear box ,align the kadee gearbox to the right height, (put everything together, place the box where it lines up to the car and the height adjustment tool) and shim it with styrene plastic until it is a perfect match to the coupler height gauge )...then remove the internals and glue in the top section of the draft gear box to the car with CA glue...next I install the coupler, the brass spring, then the bottom section of the gear box, drill a hole that will accommodate a 2-56 screw, run the tap to make threads and screw it all together...kadee has a drill and tap set for 2-56 screws...the coupler adjustment pliers is used to adjust the air hose pin so that it doesn't catch on a turnout frog or any obstruction in the track...Chuck[:D]

[rogerhensley]

Of course the simple fact is that there is no one way that works for everything. Each manufacturer does the coupler pocket their way and although several are similar, not all are the same by any means. Indeed, not all cars use the same coupler although the Kadee 5 will handle most with some tweeking. That wouold be Howard's question. How do you tweek for each and every car?

Start with an Athearn or MDC car or two and install the couplers. That will give more confidence to tackle something else. Rivirossi /AHM cars are very different and can be difficult. As pointed out, body mounts are generally the best, but the talgo arm can have a Kadee mounted on it, but it takes a certain amount of inventivness.

Bottom line? There is no one instruction that will cover everything that you will see and need to convert. Sorry.

[Howardr]

Well, I guss there isn't any free lunch. I'll just have to fool aroud and ruin some old rolling stock until I get it right.

Thanks all.

[dknelson]

The first thing to get when going the knuckle coupler route is -- get the Kadee coupler height tool or jig. To get the most of what these couplers can do, and the most out of their advantages over horn hook couplers, it is vital to install them at exactly the right height -- both the coupler itself as well as the "air hose" down below to avoid snagging on rails. My own experience is that Kadees work best and seem more durable even if they cost a little more.
Dave Nelson

[novacoach]

A few pointers
*Try to use KDs in their own boxes as supplied over using the boxes cast onto cars. It is not difficult to (patiently) remove most such boxes on boxcars etc. and drill for a KD no.5. Quite often I find the boxes cast on are no good for the KD spring. Tank cars are a bit more delicate ad I do give in to te clone couplers supplied.
* I don't think you ruin any cars if you just take your time -
* If you have a specific car with a problem there may be somebody here who has already done the conversion
* Use the info on the KD website
cheers

Chris

[Anonymous]

I recommend the Kadee's. Definitely stay away from the knuckle type that use a plastic piece rather than a coil spring to close the knuckle on the coupler. If you leave the plastic spring type parked over a magnetic uncoupler for any length of time it will lose enough springyness to close the knuckle on the coupler.

[sailor38]

It will be very hard to go wrong with KD #5s. They fit most everything and are easy to install. If you do run into a piece of rolling stock that gives you problems, set it aside until you've had more experience (this refers to body mounts, not Talgo types). You will definitely want the KD coupler height guage or the NMRA standards guage. You should also install an uncoupler magnet on a piece of straight track and determine that the "air hose" is not catching on it or riding too high. You can get by with just a pair of pliers or needlenoses but you need to be careful not to crimp or overdo the adjustment. It's easier than this sounds. One tip: Have the screw in the hole in the draft gear cover in one hand when you put the coupler in the box. Then you can just put the cover down over the draft gear box and hold it in place while you pick up the screwdriver. Otherwise the coupler will want to fall out of the box. It took longer to say this than it does to do it. Have fun!!![:D]