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Gleaming the Rails
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<p>Hello SamGolden. I am Semafore, originator of the Gleam process. Please let me clarify this for you. But first, you must <em>unlearn</em> what you have learned about cleaning track. No other method is even close to achieving these results. Cleaning is only one step. </p> <p>You are CONDITIONING your track. The burnish step makes a hardened airtight shell on the track. That helps resist the oxidation. The electicity arcs less, making less carbon flux residue in the track and wheels. Adhesion is increased and smoother, and rolling drag is reduced. Rolling trains are quiter. I wanted to scale the actual wheel/track relationship. Prototypes need it tractively, but we need it electrically.</p> <p>When we modellers get track, notice it has a FLAT top, not domed. [ I ] Hmmmmmm... That means the bevelled wheels ride on the inner edges only. How can I increase contact area? Sand the rail to get the DOME! [ ( ]</p> <p>Perhaps some of the posts on this thread have aged out, and now the technique is becoming bastardized. This is the way:</p> <p>1) Sand down the railhead to achieve a slightly domed top to the railhead. I used 400 grit wet/dry, on a small wood block,; wipe the spoil, then 600 grit, wipe the spoil. Also, sand the inner side rail faces. The flanges rub along here.</p> <p>2) Using a 1/2-inch Stainless Steel Flat Cut Washer, on the domed side, apply moderate pressure and RUB until the shine comes out! THIS IS WORK, about 10 minutes per 3-foot HO track. Work the railhead to make it rounded, including the inner rail faces.</p> <p>Turnouts are equal to a three-foot section, be patient. Less pressure on point rails, just more passes. You can do the track before of after installation.</p> <p>This works for ALL scales. I even did HO brass...wow! It will still tarnish, but much slower.</p> <p>When doing the work, keep in mind that you are making a smooth, electrically seamless contact area for the wheels. You will now enjoy operating trains at proto-typical speeds, especially switching.</p> <p>Some modellers use a polish afterwards. I find I don't need it. I feel any liquid will wick down the rail web, and then back up to the dome, so I avoid it.</p> <p>My Avatar photo is of track that was gleamed, take a close look at the LUSTER on the rail.</p> <p>The luster will diminish in time but not the performance. All that is needed to maintain is a DRY WIPE with cotton. After all, now the track is like a mirror, what sense to scratch it up with an abrasive?</p> <p>After 5 YEARS, the SFRM.org HO display track still holds the performance. I did this ONCE.</p> <p>Once in 5 years beats once a week any day! And since real railroads don't have track-cleaning cars, now I don't either! Yes, it is an arduous task, but It all means more time freed up to run and model. It's as if all track cleaning over time is condensed into a few minutes per section.</p> <p>I hope I didn't scare you. It really works.</p> <p> </p>
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