Removing balast from old track

[Anonymous]

I'm just getting back into the hobby after a 8 year or so 'break', and have started tearing apart my basic 4x8 layout in order to build a new layout around-the-wall.

The old layout has code 100 NS track (Atlas), and while most of the new layout will be code 83, I'd like to reuse some of the old track and switches for a hidden staging yard or even a visible yard. But here's the problem -- I balasted the old track with Woodland Scenics balast, and now I'm having a heck of a time getting the balast off, especially the finer balast I used in the sidings and yards (the medium balast on the mainline cleans a lot easier).

It was put on with either diluted white glue or diluted matte medium (had both but don't remember which I used). I've tried soaking it overnight in 'wet water' and while that's helped a little bit, even scrubbing doesn't remove it all or any in some cases. So, what's good alternative to releasing the grip the glue/medium has on the track? If worse comes to worse I can live with the old balast and just use the track where it can't be seen, and I may end up doing just that, but the more pieces I can reuse the less I have to buy now.

Thanks for any help you can provide!
---joe

[nfmisso]

Joe;

Hot (out of the tap) spraying water is probably the best you are going to be able to get. If you are willing to risk it, a dishwasher ....... no detergent.

[Anonymous]

I recently ripped up track from my old N Scale layout to reuse it on my new logging layout. (Very prototypical, I might add.) I used a flat scraper blade to remove the old cork roadbed so I could reuse that too. (Very un-prototypical.)

I put the whole mess of track, switches & cork in the bathtub & kept it soaking in hot water for several days. Whenever I thought of it, I'd drain off the old water & replace it with new hot water until all the diluted glue had desolved.

Wayne

[Anonymous]

Don't think the wife would appreciate not being able to take a shower for a couple of days. :) Dishwasher is an interesting idea, though I'll try the hot water spray first.

Thanks, folks!

[Big_Boy_4005]

I've kind of wondered about this myself, and have been thinking about denatured alcohol. It might be worth testing on the plastic tied Atlas track. My problem is that my track has wooden ties and steel rails.

[Anonymous]

Where do you get denatured alcohol? Paint section of the hardware store, I'm guessing?

---joe

[Big_Boy_4005]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jsalemi

Where do you get denatured alcohol? Paint section of the hardware store, I'm guessing?

---joe

Yup, It is sometimes called shelac thinner. I believe it is wood alcohol, and has a kind of sweet smell, though I'm sure that like any other volitile liquid the fumes aren't good for you. I haven't tried it on the old ballast yet, but I have a feeling that it will cut through those dried water based adhesives quicker than soaking, and it shouldn't harm the plastic. Now I'm really curious. I'll go test it out and report back.[:p]

---

That was quick. In under 5 minutes the old ballast was almost falling off the test section. It had been on there for over 10 years. Because it was on 3 rail O track it was a 1/4" thick and firmly stuck to the ties. Maybe the thing to do is get a piece of PVC pipe and glue an end cap on one end of a 3' piece. Then get a threaded adapter and a screw plug, and glue it on the other end. Put your track in screw the cap on, and let it sit for a little while.

Do a test first though, to make sure that the alcohol doesn't soften the plastic ties. It shouldn't, but be safe.[:)]

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the experiment! I'll pick some up over the weekend and give it a try. Like I said up top, no great loss if I lose a couple of pieces of track, or end up using them in hidden areas, but it would be nice to have some 9" pieces laying around for those short yard sections and the like where it just isn't worth cutting flex track (which is what the new track will mostly be).

[Anonymous]

I use those throw away or cheap Tupperware like containers for dip tanks.

[AltonFan]

I got one of those long trays used for wallpaper, put my old track in it, and let it soak in warm water for a few days. When the old ballast and glue softened, I used an old toothbru***o fini***he job, and rinsed everything in clean water.

[Anonymous]

Just wanted to let y'all know that I stumbled on a solution that worked. I soaked the track in warm 'wet' water for at least 24 hours, and then scrubbed it with a old brass scrubbrush (the kind you use to clean BBQ grills) that I had laying around. Works like a charm!

Now to fini***earing apart the old benchwork and getting the new l-girder benchwork in place...[;)]

---joe

[Anonymous]

One more update -- I figured out an even better solution. After reading about using isopropyl alcohol to clean track with a cleaning car, and thinking about Big_Boy's suggestion to use denatured alcohol, I decided to try cleaning the old balast off with some 99% isopropyl alcohol I had laying around. Works like a charm! I soak the track pieces in about an inch of alcohol for a couple of minutes, and most of the old balast just floats off. A quick scrub with an old toothbrush gets the stuborn stuff off and cleans the rails to a nice shiny fini***o boot.

91% works great too, and I suspect 70% would work, though it might take a bit longer to disolve the old glue. Rubber gloves and good ventilation are also good to have.

---joe

[cwclark]

I have tried to reuse old track and turnouts before and have found it better to just throw out the old stuff and put in new stuff...everytime i've torn down a layout (one divorce, and three moves to a new address) I manage to spare everything but the track!...I could never get the track clean enough to lie flat ever again and a lot of it got out of guage in the cleaning process...Chuck[:D]

[Anonymous]

Well, my intention is to use the old code 100 track only for the staging yard -- I'm building the new layout all code 83, and flex track as much as possible. So if there's a problem with the old stuff, it'll be easy to rip out and replace without disturbing scenery or ballast. This is a plus because I really haven't finalized how I'm going to do the staging yet, and I won't have to worry about damaging new track as I play with the configuration. And I'll at least get up and running a bit faster without having an even more major investment in new track (current estimate around $350 - 400, since I'll be using quite a few curved turnouts for space reasons). So I can live with it for now.

In the meantime, the old track is also good for temporary track laying so I can finalize where the track will be for cutting the sub-roadbed and building the risers for the grades.