need advice on cutting plywood.........

[Anonymous]

hey guys, sorry for two post's back to back, but im faceing a challenge i have never attempted before. my layout is built to modular standards, meaning.... it measures 10' x 16' and it is 2' shelves built around my wall. my frameing consists of the following... 1" x 4" boxes with 1" x 4"'s for support every 12"'s. it is covered with 1/2" BC plywood. the complete layout consists of 5 seperate tables all connected by way of carrige bolts. i want to add elevation to part of this layout, and i want to use the cookie cutter method and raise it with risers and cleats. the problem is that i have never done anything like this, so im needing any and all advice and suggestions before i make any mistakes, plywood is too expensive now days[:(] if anyone has done this method and has any advice, please tell me. also, the bench work is open grid style if that makes a difference. thanks!

P.S. here is a few pictures of my bench work if that helps any!
http://www.railimages.com/gallery/stevemanchester

[simon1966]

It sounds like the modules are assembled already? I would draw lines to represent the sides of the raised subroadbed sections. Dissasemble the module and use a jigsaw to cut out the pieces. If you can not get to an edge to start these cuts then the only real solution is to drill a starter hole larger than the jig saw blade and start the cut in the hole. With the module still assembled you will have the problem of trying to cut the plywood without damaging the crossmembers too much.

[jwmurrayjr]

Hi Steve![:)]

Here's a bit of info on cookie cutter methods:

http://www.hrtrains.com/classnotes4.html

I used the cookie cutter method almost exclusively on my layout, but I used 1/2" foam for the sub roadbed instead of plywood. The principle would be the same except that you would use wood risers and cleats instead of foam board risers.

Simon has a good point. Can you unscrew the plywood tops to do the "cookie cutting"?

You might get some ideas from looking at my website below.

[:)]

[Anonymous]

hey guys, thanks for the response. yea, i can un screw the plywood tops from the tables, guess its a good thing i did build them according to NMRA standards. jwmurrayjr, thanks for the link to your site, great work and good to hear from you again. thanks!

[nfmisso]

Steve;

Instead of a jig saw, you can use a RotoZip or equivalent (aka trim router), set to the correct depth (½" in your case), and cut everything in place.

I recently sold my jig saw because the rotozip equivalent is much easier, faster, smoother, quieter, doesn't vibrate and works with near zero clearance.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44914
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=TOOL&pid=00917252000&bidsite=&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

[Anonymous]

Nigel,

I'm intrigued by your router. How much splintering do you get along the edges of the cut??

Just wondering..

Guy

[dknelson]

I use a jig saw when cutting plywood but I use the blades meant for cutting metal. It is a narrower cut, cleaner and less splinters. But plywood dulls the blades quickly, and the metal blades cut more slowly because of the small teeth.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

On the rotozip tool. I have a similar attachment for my Dremel, would that work? Is the dust level the same as you would get with a jigsaw?