Is this a stupid flex track question???

[Anonymous]

OK, here goes. I see code 100 HO flex at $1.25 for Model Power, $1.99 for Atlas, and up to $6.00 for some more expensive brands. What is the difference? I know there may be some visual differences in tie size or spike size, but is that it? Is it only the prototypical (or lack of) appearance? Is one piece of flex track really worth 5 times a different brand? I was planning a purchase of Atlas, at about $188 for 100 pieces. Is there a reason I should rethink this? Also, is something WRONG with Model Power? I am not stupid, just new.[:D]
Tim

[Anonymous]

No, its not a stupid question. I just asked this not too long ago on the Atlas forum. The main difference I have found between the Atlas and Model Power is the flex of the track itself. The Atlas track flexes very easily and retains its original shape well. The Model Power is stiffer and once bent can be a real bear to straighten back out. The ties on the atlas flex seem to be nicer also. Hope this helps, Mike

[Anonymous]

Only ypu can decide if the higher price track fits your needs better than the Atlas. If you are trying to be a prototypical modeler, the higher price track may match your need to have better looking track. But then you would probably be using code 86 or smaller anyway.

[orsonroy]

You get what you pay for. A car's a car, right? What's the difference between a Yugo and a Chrysler when they both roll down the street?

In general, the only differences between track manufacturers are their switches. Generally, the only real difference between flextracks are in the amount of flexiness (Atlas is VERY flexy, most others aren't) and in how they look.

If you're going to use code 100 flextrack, I wouldn't bother worrying about brand recognition, and buy the cheapest. They all look sort of rough, especially when it comes to the "rail spikes".

[Anonymous]

Well, the "you get what you pay for" term was probably started by manufacturerers to sell their products. You need to compare things that are similar. A Yugo would be compared to a , well, nothing compares to a Yugo!! A Cadillac and a Chevy are built by the same people, using the same materials (other than some high-end trim materials) and construction techniques, yet the Caddy can cost twice as much as the Chevy, and they both "roll down the road" with the same amount of dependability. The real difference is the cosmetics. That is what I am trying to find out. I am new, and have read quite a bit. I understand that the code 100 rail is larger than the prototype, but my budget won't allow $50 turnouts and $200 locos. I am trying to get advice to help me make the best decision for me. My family and friends aren't the least bit concerned about the rail size I use, and I don't need to impress anyone with $1000's put into my railroad. I want a decent looking and operating railroad at modest expense, with the bulk of my funds spent on things I need for me, not for the pages of Model RRer magazine. If I had the Priest's budget, or some of your budgets, it may be different, but that isn't the case. I am not trying to build a layour that someone can check with their dial indicator to tell me it isn't 100% to scale. I have to make wise decisions and be a little frugal, as I was when I purchased my 2 P2K GP9's for $65.00 delivered.

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

You get what you pay for. A car's a car, right? What's the difference between a Yugo and a Chrysler when they both roll down the street?

How do you get a Yugo to accelerate from 0 to 60 in 6 seconds?








Push it off a cliff!

[tomwatkins]

I think the Atlas track is easier to use because it is more flexible. It's easier for me to get a smooth flowing curve with no kinks with Atlas than it is with the stiffer brands. I've used some of the more expensive brands which are better detailed, but found them harder to use. Atlas is well made and easy to use. I think it's an excellent compromise between price and quality.

It's definely not a stupid question. Most of have to make or choose to make buying decisions that are based on price as well as quality and value. The trick is to know what's a reasonable compromise to save money and what constitutes too much sacrifice of quality and satisfaction.
Hope This Helps,
Tom Watkins

[IRONROOSTER]

I have found it very helpful to have track that flexes easily. Especially for easements and curves. I bought a few sections that are weathered, but don't flex very well. I found it so difficult with the first piece that I gave up on it.
Enjoy
Paul

[jwmurrayjr]

Atlas flex track is made from nickle-silver alloy. Some other tracks, and I think that MP may be one, are made from iron. Nickle-silver alloy is much more elastic (springy) and will not rust or shed iron filings since it contains no iron.

I would guess that all of the "premium" track is also nickle-silver.

This might indicate that MP is not the best buy.

[:)]

[Anonymous]

The one thing that no one has mentioned here but has probably done several times over is to build a layout and then some time after decide to to either change something on the layout or even just rebuild a new layout. In doing so, there is always the question of how much of the track can be salvaged and used again, especially the flex track and switches.

This is where the real value of the track shows itself. I mean, I have flex track and switches that were down on a layout for 15 years. I then pulled it up and the pieces that were atlas were pretty easy to reuse. . Not so with a few pieces of some of the other brand flex track I had. Not to mention that over the years, the pieces that were not made of nickle silver were always the hardest to keep clean.

As far as the weathering look goes, this can be accomplished with just a couple of 98 cent cans of flat spray paint from Walmart. There's enough paint in the cans to do fifty pieces of flex track. The most economical way of buying flex track especially if one is going to be using a lot of it is by the carton. The same way with the cork.

I'm doing a new layout. What it has cost me so far has been $28. This was for the price of the lumber to make the table with, some rail joiners and track nails. I was able to salvage almost all of the track and cork. All of the switches (turnoutts), a lot of the wire, and all of the stuctures. I don't know about anyone else, but I call this REAL value for the buck. Years ago when I bought the Flex track, the Atlas brand averaged out to be about 89 cents a piece. Not a bad investment when you stop to consider all the trains that have gone across it in fifteen years and now it is still just as good as it was when I bought it, and will be serving me again for many more years.

The true test of value of any item is ultimately the test of time. I can't tell you enough of how glad I am now for spending a little more at the time I bought all of this to get mostly the Atlas rather than the so-called economical brand. Because in doing so, the layout I'm building now is only costing me a small fraction of what it would if I had to buy all of this over again. In the long run, the Atlas brand of track has proven the be the most economical, hands down.

[Anonymous]

I to did a bit of research before building this winter. I found the Atlas code 100 flex to be the best value for the price. I would stay away from the Model Power stuff. I checked it out, and for the small difference between it and the Atlas, I picked the Atlas. As for turnouts, I bought the Atlas and wished now that I hadn't. As the budget starts to rebuild, I will be replacing my Atlas turnouts with something of better quality.

[Anonymous]

Well, I was leaning towards the Atlas, and I think you guys have convinced me. I know a lot of people want to have the most realistic RR possible, and I am not any different. The problem is with VALUE. People don't look at something anymore and decide if it is worth the money. Today, most decide if they can afford it, whether it is worth it or not. I am sure the $5 and $6 pieces of flex track don't cost 2-3 times as much to make as Atlas, so why are they so expensive? Because some are willing to pay whatever it costs to get what you want. I would agree that some things are worth more, but how much more is the question. I myself will be satisfied to have Atlas track, and with the money saved, I can buy 2 or 3 more locos or a yard of rolling stock. The layout will look very nice, and unless someone that is knowledgeable about prototype railroads is standing on top of it, noone else would know that my rails are .015" too tall. Thank you all for your input. It is greatly appreciated.
Also, dgoodlander, what is wrong with the Atlas switches? What others would you (or anyone) with a budget recommend?
Tim

[simon1966]

Hi Tim, went through the same decision process 6 months ago. I went with Atlas code 100 flextrack. I needed the code 100 to handle deeper flanges on some of my older trains. I have not regretted it. Easy to work with and good prices. One tip, there are 2 types of Atlas code 100 out there. The older stuff has much more clunky moulding and very large spikes. The other is much finer. Apparently, Atlas improved the moulds used. Anyway, my LHS had both in stock, so if you pick carefully you can get the better looking track. As for switches, I chose to use Peco. Again, not as prototypical as some, and not cheap either, but very reliable and of excellent quality. This is one place where spending the extra buck is worth it!

On a final point, I totally agree with the comment above about painting the track. I just painted and weathered a section of my layout track. I have not put on ballast at this time, but the improvement in look is astounding. This is one very inexpensive way of making a dramatic difference to the overall look of the layout.

[Sunset Limited]

I agree with simon1966,dgoodlander on Atlas code 100 flex track. I used this on my layout and had no problems. With some weathering and scenery you can't really tell. Just buy a NMRA track guage and check the track width and also your rollng stock wheels- good insurance! You mentioned you were 'new'. Remember, it's hard buying the best of this or the best of that, I started with Code 100 atlas flex track- nothing fancy, ATHEARN diesels- SW-1500/GP-9'S blue box built ups- not expensive compared to KATO, STEWART, ATLAS. My layout ran great! Later I had enough on my budget to improve my layout and purchased those items I had on my 'wish list'. Start small and let it grow in time! I learned this the expensive way and alot of trial and error!

[Anonymous]

Hey, this is lige .I want to know if you bought your flex track yet. I can understand the budget limit. I have Model Power code 100,how much do you need? (Switches also)

[dstaley]

Hey all,
I faced this same decision about two months ago and decided to give the Model Power track a try. I have it now and have installed it in my staging areas and some of my hidden track (I've planned all along to use Micro Engineering code 70, 55, and Atlas code 83 for track that's visible). I can attest that the rail is indeed nickle silver rather than an iron alloy. It is nickle. It solders fine, and I found it fairly easy to work with. It handles more like Micro Engineering track than Atlas due to it staying curved when you curve it, but it straightens back out easily too once you get used to it. I'm glad I went with the model power track in my particular case.

As far as cosmetics (which were not a consideration since it's all in hidden areas) the spikes on the model power track seem to be smaller than on Atlas track, which I like. The rail profile isn't much different and not very prototypical, but the value statements are dead on. I found this track to be certainly as good as Atlas for me.

By the way- my staging yards are built with mostly Atlas #6 turnouts. These are working fine. I've also used one Shinohara I got new from eBay and a few Pecos I used due to throw rod & switch machine constraints, and so far everything "plays well with others".

I hope this helps!

[Don Gibson]

Flextrack:

Beginners want most things on the cheap. Model Power ant Atlas compete for this end of the market.

Micro-Engineering and Shinohara / Walthers offer product for those who want something more prototypical. Is it worth $3 more? depends on your taste.
How many layouts use more than 20 pieces? ($60). - About the price of a cheap engine.

RE: 'Flexibilty'. The more flexible - the easier to use? - for some. The 'Pro' s tend to like more-stiffer-more-it-stays- track. Consider this: More 'flex' is achieved by enlarging the plastic nubs and slots, loosening the tolerances for being in gauge. Want proof?
Take an NMRA guage to the track sometime or you can try some fineline (semiscale) wheels. Whoops!

Realitic track with realistic looking ties costs more. Now the question becomes Do You Care?

Some DO. Some DON'T.

[Anonymous]

"Realistic looking track with realistic looking ties costs more. Now the question becomes Do you care?"
"Some do. Some don't"

Actually, I do care, but I place a value on my choices. Is having virtually the same quality of manufacturing standards for 2 like products be spaced so far apart in price for some very small cosmetics worth it. I want as life-like as possible without losing an arm and a leg. Some of you probably look at it as though you need it at whatever the cost. That is probably why there is such a drastic difference in price. If noone had been willing to pay that enormous price, they wouldn't be priced so high. We aren't comparing apples to oranges, rather Granny Smiths to Golden Delicious. I would be more than willing to pay 10% more for the extra 30 seconds it took the Shinohara guy to make his ties and spikes different, but double or triple the price of the track? That just doesn't seem justified. If tomorrow Atlas cuts its track price in half and Peco or Shinohara double theirs, along with all the turnouts, etc, will you still pay the price because it looks more perfect? As far as my layout, I am STARTING with 100 pieces of flex and somewhere near 40 turnouts. That works out to be approx $500.00 for all Atlas products versus $1100.00 for Walthers/Shinohara brands. That is more than double the price. That is a big difference, and that is what I have been trying to decide. Is there any reason to more than double my expenditure for no increase in quality, but just some minor cosmetics? Many of you talk about the more prototypical look, but that does not mean it is of any better quality in materials and manufacturing. If I were to take a photo of my layout from 10 feet away and post it here, would any of you be able to say what track I have?

[Anonymous]

Hi enduringexp
I have used Atlas flex and set track and their switches I would use their flex and set track again, but not their switches I found Peco switches to be compatable and better so I use Peco or Atlas depending on what suits the need of a given area.
I would recomend getting straight and curved track setters for the flex these are metal templates that make laying the track a lot easier so the straights are straght and the curves the right radius.
regards John

[Anonymous]

John,
What are "track setters" and who makes them/where to buy? I haven't heard about them yet. I know about the parallel gages to keep 2 tracks parallel, but not about the others. Thanks for the info.

Also, I hope I don't sound like I am trying to discredit anyone elses choices in track and supplies, as that is not the case. Some people always buy the most expensive thing they can find, others always buy the best, whether it is the most expensive or not, and some always buy the cheapest. I have found in dealing with lots of people in other areas that quality and value usually don't come into the picture. Many just think that the most expensive has to be the best. I am just seeking advice on your experiences to help me make the right choices. I have seen many model rr's in the magazines that use code 100 track, so despite the term used here earlier that it looks "rough" and it doesn't matter so use the cheapest, apparently most critics still think it is a viable choice.
Tim

[Anonymous]

I agree with the post that the switches make a major difference, provided that you buy nickel silver track. Forget brass or steel unless you like to clean track all the time, Lord knows even NS has to be cleaned frequently enough! On previous layouts I opted for atlas code 100 flex and was satisfied with it, but I also used atlas code 100 switches and I found them to require a lot of tuning to be relaible. I am now using code 83 atlas flex and atlas code 83 switches. I suggest you compare the atlas code 83 switch to the atlas code 100 switch. Since you are new to the hobby you may not see much difference, but I have learned the hard way that the atlas 83 is a much more reliable switch than the atlas code 100. So the code 83 switch drove me to code 83 atlas track... and I do think you will eventually find that the lower rail height looks better too. Don't go too cheap on track and switches or you'll end up quitting the hobby out of frustartion or ripping it all up and replacing it.

[Anonymous]

I agree with the post that the switches make a major difference, provided that you buy nickel silver track. Forget brass or steel unless you like to clean track all the time, Lord knows even NS has to be cleaned frequently enough! On previous layouts I opted for atlas code 100 flex and was satisfied with it, but I also used atlas code 100 switches and I found them to require a lot of tuning to be relaible. I am now using code 83 atlas flex and atlas code 83 switches. I suggest you compare the atlas code 83 switch to the atlas code 100 switch. Since you are new to the hobby you may not see much difference, but I have learned the hard way that the atlas 83 is a much more reliable switch than the atlas code 100. So the code 83 switch drove me to code 83 atlas track... and I do think you will eventually find that the lower rail height looks better too. Don't go too cheap on track and switches or you'll end up quitting the hobby out of frustartion or ripping it all up and replacing it.

[gwensdad]

It seems to me the replies you've received on this post so far are missing the most critical information: appearance is a factor of manufacturing, and good trackwork is the MOST important thing in getting your layout running reliably. I can't speak about Model Power, but I am familiar with Atlas, Micro Engineering, and Walthers/Shinohara. All are nickel silver, which is important because NS oxide is conductive, so you don't have to clean the track as frequently. Each maker's track has a slightly different appearance, and this is where you have to concentrate. Atlas makes or has made two different versions of its Flextrack. One is called, simply, Flextrack, while the other is called "Super Flextrack." I don't know when they changed, or if they still even make the Flextrack, since my LTS didn't even know there was a difference. The point is, the ties on the Flextrack are oversize in comparison to the prototype. The Super Flextrack is finer, more the size of ME and W/S, which are both smaller, in both height and width. This is important because you need to match the size of the ties in your flextrack to those in whatever turnouts you select, or you'll be forever shimming something up with properly weighted cars causing the track on the smaller ties to sag. Our modular club started off using whatever flextrack we could get, and Atlas turnouts. Early on, no problem. Then some started to use Walthers or ME turnouts, which float between the rail joints with original Atlas Flextrack. If you use original Atlas turnouts, and ME or W/S track, the track will float. With long cars, properly weighted, this can cause the couplers to move enough to separate.

The reason to use other than Atlas turnouts is to have a live frog (only one of the newer Atlas lines has this), and power routing. You have to drill out the Atlas jumpers to do this with most of their line. ME and W/S are ready for power routing right out of the box. Peco has two different versions, one with the frog insulated, and one not.

My experience has been, once the track is painted and ballasted, it's extremely hard to tell the difference between various types of track from three feet away. So your decision should be based on 1) what looks good to you, 2) how much you have to spend, and 3) what works well together. I think you may need to do a little more thinking about what you want to achieve before you make your decision.

Good luck, and happy model railroading.