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what kind of power pack do i need to run 3 trains
what kind of power pack do i need to run 3 trains
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
what kind of power pack do i need to run 3 trains
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, May 15, 2004 12:50 PM
Hi
Another question SORRY, what kind of power pack do i need to run 3 trains and also in order for me to run 3 trains a passenger train and two other s i want to run on the layout that i want to build..do i also have to run all three sets of tracks just for that train or is there a way to where all trains can run on each of the tracks even though you have three power packs because thats what i have now but is there a better way to do this to where if i want only one train to run and the others stopped would that power pack start all three trains if i turn it on or are there some sort of switches that i need for the trains to run on all the tracks ...thanks Rick
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IRONROOSTER
Member since
June 2003
From: Culpeper, Va
8,204 posts
Posted by
IRONROOSTER
on Saturday, May 15, 2004 2:51 PM
Yes you can use your three power packs to run your three trains. You need to use insulated rail joiners to electrically divide your layout into blocks, each block is wired to a roatary switch (toggles can be used for two packs) that allows you to switch each block between the three power packs. I would suggest you pick up a book on wiring your model raildroad.
This page has some http://store.yahoo.net/kalmbachcatalog/model-railroading-books-wiring-electronics.html
You might check out http://www.nmra.org/beginner/consist.html which has a link to wiring using toggle switches - you have to sub in rotaries for three packs.
You could also go with DCC - there are several threads in these forums.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Saturday, May 15, 2004 11:41 PM
I would suggest DCC. It is the easiest to use (once you get the hang of it) and it is the most realistic due to the fact that you can move two engines in the same block under a different throttle. Equiping your layout now with DCC is better than waiting untill your layout is as big as it's going to get (our club found that out the hard way). But if you are sure this will be a small layout in an appartment bedroom or other small area, I would just use analoge; it would be less expensive.
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cwclark
Member since
January 2004
From: Crosby, Texas
3,660 posts
Posted by
cwclark
on Saturday, May 15, 2004 11:46 PM
instead of the insulated rail joiners you might consider just cutting the rail with a razor saw or a drimel tool cut off wheel, glueing some sytrene plastic in the gap with AC glue..(AC glue is like super glue but better for modelers..get it at your local LHS) and whittle it down to the shape of the rail with a hobby knife...rail joiner insulators have a bad flaw...they are unequal in size to a metal rail joiner and make the rails longer on one side of the joint when you try to join the two rails together, eventually causing the two joints to not line up...also, since you are starting out, you might want to try common rail wiring..it is the easiest wiring when you wire for "blocks"..one rail (lets say the top rail) will have no insulated rail joints at all (the top rail in the entire layout will be joined with metal rail joiners) and the bottom rail will be the blocks..in other words a wire will go from the power pack thru an on / off switch (usually a single pole / single throw switch or a double pole / double throw switch if you are wiring for "Cab Control") and then to the insulated side of the block which will be the bottom rail..you really need to get a book on rail wiring..there are a lot of circumstances where your layout can make shorts..like a reversing loop, a turn table, select control track turnouts, and wyes...there are a lot of books out there that show you how to wire your layout...Chuck
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