After about a year of pouring over Model Railroader issues and internet research, I have finally started to work on my first layout. I've laid about half of my roadbed with few problems.
As it stands, here is my loose plan:
N Scale 4' x 8'Modern Union Pacific equipment (I like the look of Kato's SD70, SD70MAC)I do not have a particular location in mindPossible Coal/Intermodal traffic, I've been researching Uranium mines too.I intend to use Bachmann's new Dynamis DCC system.I am using Atlas code 80 flextrack and number 6 customline turnouts because they are readily available and inexpensive.This is being built on a 3/4" sheet of plywood laid across 2 sawhorses. There is also a piece of 1/2" foam insulation board on top of the plywood.
Overall, I didn't want to do anything too fancy, so I made my plan simple. My major aim was to give myself a taste of switching and still be able to run long trains. I have 2 large loops that are connected by 2 crossovers The largest loop has 41" diameter curves (20.5 radius) and the smallest has 38" curves(19 radius). There is a small 2-track through yard on one side. There will be a 2-stall engine house on one end of the yard. 2 turnouts will lead into the interior of the ovals. They will lead to future industrial spurs. I am uncertain as to how many I will ultimately build, but my current plan has room for 4 spurs, I might build more though. This allows me a large, open space in the center of my layout where I can try different scenery techniques.
My main objective is to learn the basic skills (roadbed has proven easy enough, track and wiring are next).I'll see about getting some pictures up sometime.
Have I missed any major details?I tried to describe my plan as best as I could...
Hi. You read like a fella who takes some trouble to establish where he is going and then sets out on the defined path. If it is working for you, that is good.
People often make the mistake of after-thoughts, or trying to shoe-horn one more length of track and a turnout into something that is already sufficiently involved. There is such a thing as too much track in a given space, and it will be worse if it is of little interest or use when all is said and done. It helps to have the switching and industrial 'work' figured out first rather than as afterthoughts, or as a form of second-guessing the original thinking.
Two ovals are fine. The crossovers are great ideas. The only problem I could see, now on my second layout where I purposefully included the function, is a way to turn entire trains. In your case, if that is something you would like to do, it means a diagonal from one side to the other. That invites more expense and complicated wiring, but it helps to keep your hands off any items you want to turn. If you don't care about changing directions, then it is a non-issue.
One function often overlooked, and regretted sincerely once the utility is recognized (and missed) is staging or fiddle, or storage, tracks. Off the layout, or behind a backdrop or barrier of some kind, or even visible, some way to store items not being manipulated is almost always a good investment in thinking up front. Strangely, it is one thing I said, "Naah.." to for this current layout, and I soon kicked myself. I now have it in place, but it is awkward and jury-rigged off the layout.
-Crandell
Sounds like a good start for a first layout.
Using plywood makes it easy to change or add. One thing to keep an eye on is warpage. Unless you are using birch with 13 plies you may experience some warping even with 3/4", if this occurs you may need to screw the plywood to 1x4's on edge underneath the edges of the plywood.
Enjoy
Paul
There's no reason to use a 4x8 when there are better designs available that fit into the same space, but...
... sawhorses are very short. Most people these days are building layouts 48" high, or higher. This make building and operating the layout mor enjoyable. Raising your benchwork before you get too far into this will be a lot eaiser than waiting until you're further along.
hi Xaltius
If you have been researching this forum seriously, you should have known all the reasons why a 8x4 is about the worst start you can make. Your choice for sawhorses and a sheet of plywood is not driven by sense but by you, willing to start to eagerly. Building a railroad takes a lot of time and money; you can spend it better on a pike well build.
A sheet of plywood needs a frame, unless you like sagging and warping.
If you don't provide a trackplan how should I know if you have missed something. You missed allready a lot, did you have any thoughts on staging or classification? Far more important, TMHO you will be throwing a lot of money down the drain because you do want to rush to the store at once. Just a bit of running and a bit of switching will be boring very soon, unless there is a plan behind it. Making this plan is skipped by you. If you have a plan, having an engine house can make sense. Can make sense, because engine houses were sparingly used by real railroads; and do they fit in your scheme?
Did you read?
Byron Henderson's checklist for potential customers: http://home.earthlink.net/~mrsvc/id13.html
Lance Mindheim: http://www.lancemindheim.com/%20
Layout Design SIG primer: http://macrodyn.com/ldsig/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Primer
Chip Engelmann's talking about all his mistakes as a newbie: http://www.chipengelmann.com/
Using a 4x8 in N scale is fine, it allows you to use broad curves of 15-18"R or more so you can run big equipment, but still be in a small space. However I have to agree about the warping that will come. You really need to add a frame and cross-bracing to the plywood. I'd also look at adding permanent legs rather than the sawhorses, they're OK but long term they're not that stable.
Thanks for the help, I'll definitely get frame built for it as soon as possible.I finally have an idea of what I want to do industry-wise with this layout, but I'm going to take some more time to refine it first.
btw, are there any books about realistic operations?
Two books I would recommend are Track Planning for Realistic Operation by John Armstrong and Realistic Model Railroad Operation by Tony Koester, pretty much in that order, IMHO.
In addition to the websites mentioned by Paul, a visit to the OpSig Primer site would be good too.
I believe 3/4" plywood is unnessarily heavy for N scale, and the foam is plenty rigid enough. A 4x8 in N scale is the same as 8 x16 in HO, so you are building big for N scale. Also, I would have difficulty reaching the middle of the layout if it is 4 feet wide. Try this, look at the MR online track plans and select a modest beginning to learn skills. These things get big fast and if they are too involved, you may loose sight of your goal: an operating railroad. Best wishes, andy chandler
hi Xaltius and Andy,
TMHO Andy said something very important, reaching in can be a problem on a 8x4.
However I would not select MR-database plans for a starter. They are great to study because they will give you idea's and inspiration. If you are rather new in this field judging if they would be great for you is a different story. The new 102-trackplan book gives additional information to the designs and so does MRP, Model Railroad Planning, published yearly by MR.
Professional designers always start with questions. John Armstrong did, who has never heard of `givens and druthers`, and for the very same reason Lance Mindheim and Byron Henderson are doing it. Make their questions yours, learn from the pro´s. Nobody can give you sound advice if they don´t no enough about your plans.
Byron Henderson has a awesome webside, I gave you the link before, and among others he speaks about cornerstones of good design. You can use it as a checklist if you like.
I will add the trackplan of the Hog and my version just to see how you can use a sheet of plywood differently. They are not given to just build it, but to start the discussion about pro´s and cons and about your wishes. Both are done in HO, N/scale is big.
Do you need to separate a layout into a scenery and a railroad part, well defined man space and train space areas would be the best start. Look at the first Hog trackplan, the august and september covers of MR and you will understand what I mean. Having the scenery done well on the railroad part of your pike only can costs you years and years.
The lengh is 10`8`` of course, not 6`8``. The original 9´6``x 9´6``.
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Have fun and good luck
"This is being built on a 3/4" sheet of plywood laid across 2 sawhorses. There is also a piece of 1/2" foam insulation board on top of the plywood."
Not trying to be a wise guy but plane and simple, this is the wrong thing to do. You will need more then just a piece of plywood on two saw horses. I don't car if you use the best quality plywood money can buy leave it on two saw horses and it's going to warp. You will need a frame work to support the plywood. Possibly 1x4 or 1x3 pine will work just fine. I would make a 4x8 frame with at least two cross braces. Saw horses are way too low. Ideally trains are best viewed at eye level and not looking down on the roof tops of your structures. If you are concerned with the layout being portable you can make folding legs with braces out of 2x4's which will give you plenty of stability if built correctly. Also you want ample room to get under the layout which you will spend half your life there doing things like wiring, adding switch machines etc. The height of my bench work is 48" off the floor. I can sit in an office chair lowerd to the bottom and work on anything anywhere on the under side of the layout. Might not sound like a big deal but as time goes on and your back and knee's go by the wayside along with your hair and waist line you'll really appreciate that you built it at that height.
I know MR has done numerous articles on just such a layout. If you can get your hands on one of the Dream, Plan, Build video's MR has it will show Micheal Gross (the guy from the family ties TV show narratign exactly how to build a 4x8 layout just as your describing.