Hi everyone . This is another one of those boring , repetitive questions,but please bear with me .I have a room to build my layout in . It is 12' by 26'.After reading a lot of recent posts, i am a little bit worried about starting it. It is a double walled utility room with a steel door and door frame .By double walled,i mean it is a concrete block structure with an additional full size brick outer wall. The inside block wall is sealed with moisture barrier paint.It has extensive flourescent lighting and a power ventlation system.There is no money left to further insulate or heat and a/c the space at this time.Should i start building or wait until i can find the money to make these improvements? I live in the north carolina mountains , so there is is a considerable temperature variation with the seasons . Thanks for your opinions and advice. It stays fairly cool in summer and a portable space heater keeps it very comfortable in winter . RON
The first question is What scale are you in. The smaller the scale the more it is affected by temperature variations. I think the other thing you will need is a dehumidifier.
I`m sorry,i am in h o scale . RON
ron
I am not sure, but people speak about investing 50 bucks for every square foot of your pike.For RR stuff only; you have a lot of sq. ft, about 300. You will spending loads of money in the near future, wood for a starter, maybe tools etc. When you are doing a lot yourself you can perform miracles; first things first: start with the room, your layout is big and not build for the next year only. AC is not urgent, a dry wall to get the dust out and for extra insulation could be great.
Paul
Ron,
Based on your description of the space, I would not be too concerned. A few considerations:
• Is the space below grade (probably not if the walls are brick and block)? If so, the temperature variation will be less than outdoors and less than an above-ground space. Your ability to heat with a portable heater and the presence of power ventilation will mitigate the variation whether it is below grade or not.
• Check the humidity and temperature variations with an inexpensive device before you consider anything drastic (expensive).
• Your power ventilation should help immensely in controlling the humidity if it is a problem.
• A ubiquitous problem with below-grade spaces is water penetration. If none, you're obviously OK; if not, you have to deal with it before building the layout.
• If the overhead construction is exposed wood floor joists and sub-flooring, you will undoubtedly have a dust problem (although the ventilation might help): a ceiling is highly desirable. If it is wood roof construction, the dust problem will not be nearly so great unless dirt can blow in through roof and eave vents.
• After considering the above functional considerations, the remaining issue is aesthetics. And that is entirely up to you!
Dante
PS. Considering the moisture barrier paint on the block, be wary of adding any new interior finish that can act as another moisture barrier: you might trap moisture vapor between the two.
Thanks for all your input . It is greatly appreciated .The building is on a hill, so about half of it is below grade . In the two years since i bought the house i have found no water or even moisture penetrating the room . It has a full wood panel drop ceiling,so no dust. one small space heater keeps it very comfortable in winter and the ventilation system does very well in the summer. It doesn`t seem to have a significant humidity fluctuation,so i guess i am good to go. I appreciate all of your help.This forum is a lifesaver. I just hope i can get to the point where i can help someone on here.Thanks again. RON
Hi!
I envy the size of your room!!!! But, I strongly suggest that you get the room finished (insulated/HVAC/electrical/wall & floor covering) before you do any layout building. If not, I promise you will regret not doing so for the next umpteen years. I realize there is money involved, but you are adding to your investment (house), and will make your MR experience much more enjoyable.
Been there, done that!
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Concrete block inner walls are poured full of insulating foam. There is a double outlet every 4 feet on all walls. I am putting down carpet this weekend. There are no windows ,but i am told that a reverse cycle heat and a/c unit can be connected to my ventilation system.That is my next project. What is holding up on a lot of this is the fact that i have collected almost every thing i will need to build over the last 4 or 5 years when i was still working. I am now retired and on a fixed income,so things take a little more time and planning.I appreciate everyone`s help and will make sure i address all of these issues before i start building. Thanks again. RON
Well, sounds like you're ready to work on a track plan and decide on the type of benchwork constuction.
Keep us posted on progress.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
where in NC? PM me a message and maybe, if you are close enough i can come and help finish the room. i have the time and expierence, but short on money (aren't we all).
If it stays cool in summer, and a space heater is all that's needed in winter, I'd say you have it pretty well insulated as is. One thing to check is the humidity though. It sounds liek your temperature is under contorl, but the humidity needs to be managed as well. Too dry is just as bad as too damp - it could be that you need a dehumidifier in summer, or maybe it doesn't get too damp, but it gets dry in winter, in which case you might need a humidifier to run in winter.
Unless it gets stuffy after a few hours in there, you're probbaly all set.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks everyone for all the great input . I forgot to mention that one reason the temperature doesn`t fluctuate greatly is because i am lucky enough to have no windows in the room .Thanks again for all the great help. You have answered a lot of questions. RON
Sounds like you have a bunker instead of a room steel door, double wall half below ground no windows hum?Did you have to move the big gun out to make room for the trains?
Someone once told me you could buy stuff like litmus paper that would tell you how much relative humidity you have indoors. If you feel the room is dry and tight and no significant moisture or temp variations your good to go.