Hello to all you model railroaders. I've been diddling around since '95 threatening to build a layout, and I've finally made good on my threat. I had a neat layout when I was a kid 45 years ago, but since then not much. Anywho, now I've got a small room, ~ 10' x 10' and am planning something to build there. I've got all the usual books, (Armstrong, Wescott et al) and have a plan for my period and so on. One bridge I've yet to cross is turnouts. I'm torn between building my own to save money, or spend the money and save time by buying them.
I saw on the Walthers site that they've got LifeLike turnouts (in code 100, which is fine with me) for sale for $8.98 ea. I may want to put up to 15 or so turnouts on the pike. What say you all. Are LifeLike turnouts decent?
I've got to say, of several forums I belong to, the model railroad people (you folks) rule when it comes to common courtesy and helpfulness.
Happy railroading,
Lou
First off, Those will work fine, but they are what is called a "snap" switch. They are not a #rd turnout like a #4, #6, #8, etc...They conform to an 18" radius curve. (kind of tight for most folks likings) They are code 100. Most people use the more realistic code 83 (or shorter) track these days. Code refers to the height of the rail itself in thousands of inches. Code 100=.100", code 83=.083", etc. in case you didn't know)There are so many better quality turnouts on the market these days to use. These LL turnouts will limit you to running shorter wheel base locos and cars. If that's all you want to do, they will work fine. Most folks prefer more realistic sized turnouts though. Some other companies are,AtlasPecoMicro EngineeringWalthers/ShinoharaCentral Valey (semi-hand layed)
These are steel track turnouts. Most model railroaders avoid steel track in favor of nickel silver. Steel rusts.
These also appear to be 18" curved leg turnouts similar to Atlas snap switches. While they can work, they are problematic in yards and crossovers due to the S curve created. Most modelers use numbered turnouts usually preferring #5's or larger. With Atlas, their #4 is actually a #4.5 which works well with smaller layouts and their 18" curved track, since Atlas doesn't have a #5.
Atlas is generally considered the best economy track.
Enjoy
Paul
Lou-
I am a few railcar lengths in front of you on the same track regarding getting back into the hobby- one bit of advice that I may humbly pass along: do research before you build and try to critique your plans before committing to plywood (or foam) and roadbed. I redesigned my current layout several times, then hit on a theme and gained much confidence from there forward.
As to the modeling community in our hobby- every one of them is a brother to each other- their advice is worth a jillion dollars and it's free- even as a passive reader of these forums, you can learn so much. One other thing- you will be suprised at how quickly your skill level improves in many areas. We are never too old to learn. My best!
there is a reason they are so cheap. (compared to todays prices) beware.
grizlump
To the forum!!
I agree that Atlas is probably the lowest grade you would want to go with. They are good reliable switches/turnouts. Without running them down, and I'm sure you will hear from those that have them and like them, I would steer clear of Life-Like (just my opinion). Track and trackwork will be the one thing you will not want to scrimp on, but you don't have to go over board either. If you choose Atlas Nickel Silver you will not be disappointed as long as you are careful about what sizes you choose based on your needs. I personally use Atlas NS code 83 and TRY not to use less than #6 and am extremely happy with the performance. If you run nothing larger than 40" cars and oh say, something -6- something steam or GP (4wheel truck) diesel and passenger cars you probably could get by with smaller without probs. I don't run steam so the "steamers" may have a different view.
And you are correct in saying this Forum is frequented by some of the nicest MRRers you will find anywhere.
Good Luck and enjoy!!!
EDIT- I neglected to add- some of the best MRR's out there also. If you haven't, check out Weekend Photo Fun on the General Discussion Forums.
Todd
Central Illinoyz
In order to keep my position as Master and Supreme Ruler of the House, I don't argue with my wife.
I'm a small town boy. A product of two people from even smaller towns. I don’t talk on topic….. I just talk.
A from the other side of the big pond!
The "success" of a layout depends to a large degree on the track work and the reliability to run your trains on that track. I recommend to go for proven quality products for turnouts as they are the most likely source of problems. Personally I prefer Peco Code 83, but there is also Walthers/Shinohara, Atrlas, Micro Engineering, CVT, Cream City a.s.
Go to a hobby shop and let them show you various makes to get the feel for quality...
Thanks for the input everyone. That's just the kind of help I was looking for.
Happy RR'ing.
I just have to express my opinion. After using code 100 on a prior layout I decided to go for code 83 on the layout I have now. I use Atlas because of availability, the many different types of track and price. I also use a combination of customline #6 on the main and #4 in the yards. Truth be said many more #4's. I have only two powered switches that are to far for me to reach to switch by hand.
I try to maintain a collection of 40 ft rolling stock but do have some 50 ft. My locos are all diesel switchers.
I am not the least bit sorry I made the move from 100 to code 83. The lower profile looks so much better, especially when the track is weathered a little.
One thing I did do the same with the track is use the HO cork roadbed. I really think it is to tall, even though it is to scale. That is just my opinion, as is all of this response.
Bob
Photobucket Albums:NPBL - 2008 The BeginningNPBL - 2009 Phase INPBL - 2010 Downtown
All I will add is, don't scrimp on turnouts. Get the best you can as poor quality ones will give you poor running. I currently use Peco Code 83 #6 except in the staging yard where I have a mixture, but that was what I had on-hand.
Brian
www.deadwoodcityrailroad.blogspot.com
Granted that it's tempting to buy commercial products - but anyone who can cut and file their fingernails can master the simple skills needed to hand-lay turnouts and other specialwork. After a few practice samples, built on temporary bases, you should be ready to build any turnout you need - up to and including puzzle palace station throats with multiple slip switches. A number of different methods have been discussed in this forum, so a quick search should provide lots of ideas.
Others will recommend FastTracks jigs, which are very nice but by no means essential. I, personally, have never used them.
I will concede that hand-laying your own specialwork seems daunting to the inexperienced. If this arthritic old coot can do it, it can't be very difficult. Also, if you build your own, that last, essential, turnout will never be out of stock.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with Atlas flex and hand-laid turnouts)
I'm actually looking forward to building my own turnouts. I'm a own and run a small machine shop with my wife, so nothing involved in the process is daunting. I just was trying to solve the old time/money/quality equation with some additional input.
I've built a test track on a piece of 4 x 7 ply, with a 15" radius on one end and an 18" on the other, with 3/8" offset easements. Everything I've got goes around it. Roster is an 0-6-0 MDC saddle tank switcher, an IHC 2-6-0, Bachman Doodlebug, and a blue box F-7. Cars are all 34-50' with #5's. Weight's all over the place 'cause I've yet to buy a cheap scale. I put the test layout on my woodworking bench so I could raise one end and test at different grades. The F-7 laughs at 9 cars on a 5% grade, the 2-6-0 won't pull it's shadow up 2.5% and for a runt, the 0-6-0 does purtydurn good. The doodlebug's a moot point since it'll mostly run solo.
I do really enjoy all the different points of view here and the respectfull way they're expressed. I look forward to posting some pics of my progress for all to see.