I just saw the GMR video of Howard Zane's original Piermont Division, and he did a demo of his spline roadbed construction, and it was COMPLETELY not what I was expecting. Basically, for those who haven't seen this, what he does is make splines using 3 pieces of wood, with square blocks glued on the inside, rather than creating a completely solid structure, the way Allen McLelland and others do, by laminating like 5 or 6 pieces together.
Now, Zane's method can't really be used for roadbed, because its actually a subroadbed construction method, basically taking the place of cookie-cutter, because you need to then add roadbed on top of it. But A.M.'s method can be used AS roadbed (coincidence that Tony Koester named his first railroad the Allegheny Midland, after Allen's initials? lol). I'm just curious who uses which, and what your thoughts and opinions on them are. I'm especially curious to hear from anyone who has done both methods.
I have built roadbed at a club 35 years ago using the "Zane" method. I don't like it that much, seems like an awful lot of work with few benefits.
Of the spline methods, I prefer the Homasote spline version. You cut Homasote in 2" wide strips and then laminate 3 on edge together using drywall screws. It produces a dead flat surface that you can handlay on. Best for broad curves, 24-30" or greater.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Well here is mine. The thing I liked the best was the transitions in and out of grade. Also any imperfections were easily corrected with a rasp or filler. The two outside pieces were beveled just like cork is. In the photo you can see a 6" climb over about 35 to 40'. The grade changes several times over the climb to offer some visual variety but never exceeds 2 degrees. I also used the rasp and a level to have a built in super elevated curves and again it work out well. Just outside of the picture on the left I have a 16' long double wide for a passing track. This was a little tricky to build as I didn't have large enough clamps for all those splines. good luck.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I use the McLelland style spline roadbed for my N-scale layout. I don't really see any benefit of doing it the other way, other than saving material. Since all of the roadbed on my lower level came from two $6 sheets of Masonite, cutting costs was not an issue. Jamie
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I used 6-ply McLelland style using 1/4" MDF. I hybridized the two approaches by using the small blocks as spacers to make perfectly parallel sidings along a sweeping S-curve...the blocks were glued at intervals between the two spline groups. If I had to glue or screw such blocks every few inches for the entire length of my splines I think I'd have gone stark raving mad.
-Crandell
I used the Zane method except for straight runs, where I used homasote on plywood. I also used lattice strips instead of rip cutting pine lumber. The amount of strips I needed did not amount to costing much more and it just seemed like too much trouble to do all the rip cutting. When I evaluated the methods, it just seemed to me to be allot of extra work to rip cut the homasote so I traded off for purchasing the lattice. Another thing in my use of the Zane method, when transitioning to the straight plywood, I needed more than just hot glue to hold the lattice in place at the end point. I used min 30" radius.
Mark
My first hands-on exposure to spline roadbed was on the club in Germany in the early '70s; it was done using the Zane method. I tried this method on my 2nd--and last--HO layout and, like Dave H., I found it a whole lot of work with little practical advantage. I did, however, try some Zane method splinework on my first N-Scale layout and drew the same conclusions as I had with HO-Scale.
I have never tried the McClellan method although, from what I have read and observed, I think I would be more inclined to give it a try on my future layout. I have acquired 25 years worth of experience in woodworking associated with both model railroading and otherwise and I have gradually settled on a subroadbed--3/8" plywood--topped with 1/2" Homasote® and cork roadbed. I create grade transitions by notching my subroadbed and then laying it with the notches on the inside of the transition curve. I have never experienced any problems curving the Homasote® upward to fix to the subroadbed on grade transitions. I used to cut both my subroadbed and Homasote® to radius using a trammel and jigsaw but on my last layout I notched the edges of both plywood and Homasote® and then curved them into the desired radius.
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
My Dad used the Zane method back in the early 60's when he made the under the house layout. He placed Campbell roadbed directly over the spline made from redwood. The spline was strong enough to have supports every 3-4 feet. Campbell roadbed was wood shaped like cork roadbed with ties already machined in place and grooved for hand-laid track. The roadbed was partially cut through between ties leaving a small continuous strip of wood that allowed enough strength to remain whole yet allowed the roadbed to be flexed around curves without affecting track guage. Jeff
Here is my use of HZ's spline subroadbed method, Even Allen McClellan's use of spline on edge for lack of a better term is intended as subroadbed if I am not mistaken. Howard Zane's mehtod does have some advantages as it's easy to do and very inexpensive. I mainly used a hot glue gun and as he points out use good glue sticks not the kind u find in the craft store, but the long one's i purchased in AC Moore work just fine. One thing you will need is lots and lots of spring clamps of variopus sizes. The look on the guys face in Home Depot was priceless when I picked up 30 of them on sale for less then a buck a piece.
I used homasote for roadbed just as he does A: becasue it's cheap and B: because it's very quite when trains run over it. It also takes track nails very well. Hence the reason why the guys who hand lay track like it. I will say Homasote does have it's down side that being it makes a god aweful mess when you cut it, so you do it outside and it also retains moisture. So if your train room aint exactly dry you mihgt want to paint it on all sides to help prevent moisture destroying your railroad.
I can see why guys like Howard Zane and Allen McClellan who both built very large railroads use these methods becasue the are cost effective in other words cheap. If your thiking about building a medium or smaller sized layout it's not worth all the hassel in my opinion.
Also I can't sear to it but I don't know if thats the real reason or not why Tony Koester named his railroad the A/M a good question.
Allegheny2-6-6-6 Here is my use of HZ's spline subroadbed method, Even Allen McClellan's use of spline on edge for lack of a better term is intended as subroadbed if I am not mistaken.
Here is my use of HZ's spline subroadbed method, Even Allen McClellan's use of spline on edge for lack of a better term is intended as subroadbed if I am not mistaken.
Actually, I do believe that Allen's method of using homasote was to create a hybrid sub-roadbed/roadbed combination. Because he also added bevelled edges, ala cork. You can check it out in the 2009 Model Railroad Planning.
Hello, r.t. -
Where do you find decent 3/8" plywood these days? I would be inclined to use it, because the good 1/2" ply is almost too stiff for some of my vertical transitions, but All I see in 3/8" is junk.
- Gerhard