Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Capt. GrimekI recently read about how to keep the motor/handle of the Dremel Motor Tool from preventing one from cutting a perfect 90 degree gap in Code 83 HO track. (But can't remember what or where I read this.) Does one use oversized discs to keep things perpendicular to the track work? Is a flexible shaft needed? Reminders and tips would be appreciated as I'll be cutting block gaps in a few days. (I can't use a razor saw due to the close proximity of the adjacent track). Thanks!
If you hold the Dremel directly above the rail, no, you can't cut a perfectly vertical slot with the standard cutoff wheel. If you're talking about rail gaps for insulation, this isn't really a problem, since you'll be gluing some sort of insulation in the slot. If it's tilted slightly, it won't matter as long as you cut completely through the rail.
For cutting rail for installation with a Dremel, just cut the rail slightly long, then after cutting off both rails so the ends are easily accessible, just make a second cut for a square end.
I use a flexible shaft attachement. The standard cutoff disc is a little larger than the end of the shaft.
Enjoy
Paul
Why do you need a "perfect" 90 degree cut if its just block gaps? What difference will it make if it is at a slight angle?
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Ah, Grasshopper, you missed the first lesson step of the journey to Model Railroading! You must delete the word "Perfect" from your vocabulary as the concept is unobtainable to mere mortals such as we! John
johncolleyAh, Grasshopper, you missed the first lesson step of the journey to Model Railroading! You must delete the word "Perfect" from your vocabulary as the concept is unobtainable to mere mortals such as we! John
Not my point at all. The point is why go to a whole lot of worry and expense buying special tools if there is no mechanical, functional or electrical benefit?
dehusman Why do you need a "perfect" 90 degree cut if its just block gaps? What difference will it make if it is at a slight angle?
I've found that the angle gets pretty sharp if you hold the Dremel high enough to make a straight (though angled) cut. And if you hold the Dremel as close to the rails as possible, you are sort of rotating the cutting disc into the cut. This can sometimes lead to a shattered disc, and a cut wider than necessary.
I've thought about getting one of the handheld devices from MicroMark, and they are on sale now.
No, the cut doesn't need to be perfect. I just think that making a straight cut is probably something that we think we should be able to do.
The flex shaft attachment works perfectly. I use it for everything.
The cutoff wheel I used cut it slightly off. When cut through I sanded the long end with the flat surface of the cutoff wheel. I know everyone will say this is unsafe. Wear saftey glasses and you do not need to press very hard to sand it down.
Mike
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Why not plan these block gaps as you lay the track? I would guess that you do not use DCC as you would not need to make many gaps, I do N-scale and if I must cut a gap, that is what I do with snips and then file it smooth. Simple and easy. DCC the only way to run like a real RR.
Ken Price
Ken G Price My N-Scale Layout
Digitrax Super Empire Builder Radio System. South Valley Texas Railroad. SVTRR
N-Scale out west. 1996-1998 or so! UP, SP, Missouri Pacific, C&NW.
I think that a Dremel Stylus used handle up,would get you a 90 degree cut (or close).
I use the dremel with a cut off wheel and one of those plastic track cutting blocks from Micromark I also have one made out of stainless that a machinist friend of mine made for me. If your cutting the track in place slip the bock on the rails and let the blade just barley touch the block the flex shaft does make it easier but you can get a perfect 90 as long as the cut off wheel isn't worn down to nothing. I picked up a lager sized cut off wheel in Lowes but haven't tried them yet.
Allegheny2-6-6-6If your cutting the track in place slip the bock on the rials and let the blad just barley touch the block the flew shaft does make it easier
??????
maxmanAllegheny2-6-6-6If your cutting the track in place slip the bock on the rials and let the blad just barley touch the block the flew shaft does make it easier ??????
Sorry you couldn't understand what I was trying to say, spell check was off
Allegheny2-6-6-6Sorry you couldn't understand what I was trying to say, spell check was off
No problemo. Looks like you edited your post and made some corrections. But I still don't know what a "bock" and a "barley" are.
maxmanAllegheny2-6-6-6Sorry you couldn't understand what I was trying to say, spell check was off No problemo. Looks like you edited your post and made some corrections. But I still don't know what a "bock" and a "barley" are.
Your a royal pin in my ____ I guess u don't speak internet BLOCK and BARELY there are u happy now..........lol
Allegheny2-6-6-6Your a royal pin in my
Did you mean "you're a royal pain"? LOL! Okay, I'll leave you alone now. Off to my basement to find other rivets to count and nits to pick.
MECmanHi, I've purchased oversized heavy-duty cutting disks from Micro-mark I think. They should let you cut rail at 90 degrees. The heavy-duty wheels are much better to use (IMO) than the standard since they don't shatter, sending shrapnel all over the workbench! David
I'll wear eye protection even if the maker claims his grinding disks will never shatter.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Unless your gage is really tiny, a fine-toothed snap saw or one of the better backsaws should easily be able to make those gaps without the hazard of flying particles, shattered disks, wayward accidental nicks, dust, smoke or melted ties. Use a saw that cuts on the forward stroke. If you really have to, you can grind a notch in the end of your saw blade to clear the adjacent rail, and you can even cut away part of the plastic back on a snap saw (using another old snap saw). One important hint is to cut on the down stroke then gently extract the blade prior to the next stroke, otherwise you'll yank the rail up out of its seat in the ties. (Been there, done that.) You can get a decent stroke if you poke the saw a little bit into the cork, homosote or plywood. That dent will hide easily with ballast. With a hand saw, the gaps will be narrower and less conspicuous, although that could work either for or against you, depending on how much your substrate expands and contracts with changing humidity. I have homosote sections that close up the gaps in my curved freight yard in winter. I have had to re-saw a few gaps to get more clearance, and then in summer I found the ends really spreading apart. If you can foresee this type of problem, make your gaps on or near a curve when possible, but avoid tight curves where the cut ends will spring out. A drop of epoxy can help maintain end separation, even under some amount of pressure. Don't over-spike the track so that the nearby track curvature will self-adjust a bit when the substrate expands and contracts. By the way, your cut will be as close to 90 degrees as you can do it.