I've seen quite a few of these on model railroads in the past. Now that I'm starting to build another part so my railroad, i was wondering if these are good quality. They seem very inexpensive, and are built of metal, not plastic. Has anyone used these and had a good/bad experience with them?
Peace
I'm not sure which ones you're talking about because Caboose Industries makes several different styles and in different scales, but all of the HO scale ones I have used over the years are plastic..
train_frk-0079 I've seen quite a few of these on model railroads in the past. Now that I'm starting to build another part so my railroad, i was wondering if these are good quality. They seem very inexpensive, and are built of metal, not plastic. Has anyone used these and had a good/bad experience with them? Peace
I have used them in the past and would say they are "adequate," depending on your personal preferences. It's been a while, but the last ones I had were plastic. Operationally, they do the job with minimal adjustment. I prefer the model with the tension spring, but would not depend on it long term for electrical contact. As to realism, the original version is clunky and oversize and doesn't represent any prototype that I have ever seen.
Since then they have added to the line with some that look more realistic but I have not seen one up close.
John Timm
So if I want to go prototypical, just get a motorized switch and make a switch stand?
Two years ago I wanted to "simplify" my 11x15 two level HO layout's controls & wiring. One of the things I did was eliminate Atlas switch machines on 13 turnouts that were easily reached. I replaced them with Caboose Hobbies ground throws, and am still well pleased with them.
That being said, may I offer two pieces of advice........ First, make sure you get the "sprung" throws, as they stay "thrown" and in place. Second, take your time and mount them securely. I found that securing the ground throw when the throw arm in a halfway position, and the points are in a halfway position, makes for a solid throw one way or the other.
One other thing....... I found it interesting that I kind of enjoy throwing the switch by hand.
For what its worth,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
train_frk-0079 So if I want to go prototypical, just get a motorized switch and make a switch stand?
That's one way to do it, but a lot of us use a mechanical linkage that runs through the fascia to the turnout and has a control knob on other end. Several variations of this have been discussed here and featured in MR over the years. It's cheaper and simpler than using motorized turnouts and has a more realistic feel to it if you like following your trains around the layout or do a lot of industry switching.
I like the mechanic way with some push-pull device. you can buy this commercially with a switch, too. The switch is - for me - obligarory. I want to power my frogs.
For the switch crew I use Details West switch stand and made them movable.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
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I have two switches powered, all of the others are the one piece Caboose throw switch. The total number is about 20. When I installed them I made sure they were attached correctly and firmly. I painted the handle green on the side so I could know how it was set from a distance. And yes, it is out of scale, but so are my fingers.
Bob
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John and Wolfgang,
You both use the same general idea of a manual push/pull divice that has a geared wheel and moves the switch stand? I think that I've seen Wolfgnags model on his youtube account. Thanks guys!
I have used these for years. I have the ground throw style in the yard areas and the upright swithstands on the "main line" turnouts. When I tore down my layout for retirement/move a couple years ago, I salvaged the Caboose Industries groundthrows and they are now still working fine on the new shelf layout.
I would thus definately say that quality is good. I do recommend the "sprung" throws as it allows better tension on the points even if you make a slight connecting error. The only time I have had a "failure" of a Caboose Industries groundthrow was when I would bore out the hole for the connecting rod too wide and cause it to split - my error for not getting the proper size brass rod to make the connecting rod.
Yes, these devices are oversize to allow our fingers to work them. I have never had a visitor to my railroad comment negatively about the size, but I have had dozens of folks reach out and throw a turnout... and with the quality of these I didn't have to flinch worrying about the device breaking with a "tourist" switch operator.
In the "full disclosure" department, Aubrey Olson is the founder of Caboose Industries and he took the time to teach me how to hand-lay track back in the 1960's. There was a ground throw available back then from Great Britain made of metal and with an external cam that many of us used. The cam would wear. Delrin plastic was just appearing, and Aubrey thought "I'll bet one could make these out of a delrin-type plastic and an internal cam that would last longer..." And then he was out learning about pressure-injection molding and we have all benefited.
Bill
I like them. They are oversized, and really don't look like the real thing. But they are inexpensive, and provide prototype like interaction.
Here's a few of them in my yard:
Also here's one next to a locomotive:
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
they are all i have used for years and i am completely satified with them.
being a bit oversize is not an issue for me since i value operating dependability over scale size.
if you decide to try them, here is a little advice on installation. measure the gap between your switch points and stock rail to the nearest thousandth of an inch. a drill bit works well for this, you understand the go/no go principle, right? use two spacers that are exactly half that figure to set the switch points to dead center. attach the throw bar to the ground throw and set the lever to dead center (straight up). hold the ground throw down with the point of a small screw driver or other tool and apply a SMALL drop of super glue to the edge of the base where it contacts your cork, plywood or whatever. place a small amount of super glue around the rest of the base, capillary action will suck in right under the base. be careful to keep it out of the mechanism.
you can then drill down through the mounting holes after the glue sets without disturbing the position of the ground throw and use a small nail, brad or whatever to accomplish a firm mounting. i have been skipping this last step for five years or more and none of them have come loose yet. the acc holds them down fine without the need for any nails.
when you throw the switch, you should feel the spring tension release before the points move. these gadgets hold the points tight against the stock rail when properly installed and you will have good electrical contact without the need for additional routing switches or wiring,
lastly, apply a little plastic compatible oil to the moving parts and you are in business.
an alternative switch throw method is the old over center spring made from a paper clip or length of wire. after you paint the track and spring wire, it is barely noticeable and works like a charm. you just flick the points one way or the other with your finger to throw the switch. you can add non-operating switch stands to the head blocks for appearance sake.
grizlump
After much thought, i have decided to go with the sprung throws for everything but the main line. On the mainline, i will use a mechanical switch. The day may go faster than if i were to switch everything manualy. I have also decided to go with the Hump Yard Purveyance manual lever kits for a(n) interchange/yard/passenger terminal. I have seen these on youtube, and i like the way they work. Thanks for all of your input.