What is your favorite wood 3/4 plywood cut to 4x strips 1x4 pine or I heard someone write they used popular what do you like and why
Oh this is for open grid L shape around 5x10x8
Original layout many years ago: 1 by 4 dimensional lumber(pine/fir). Current layout has 3/4" plywood cut into 1 by 4's. No shrink, no warp, no knots. The layout is 'L' girder in a 25' by 20' area.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
gjvjr50 What is your favorite wood 3/4 plywood cut to 4x strips 1x4 pine or I heard someone write they used popular what do you like and why Oh this is for open grid L shape around 5x10x8
I was going to use 1x4 pine until I tried to find some that was straight enough to use. I then went to a specialty lumber store here in town and purchased 1x4 poplar. Poplar is a popular wood to work with; it is a 'soft' hardwood that cuts and machines well. Another benefit is poplar is much more stable (movement) than pine due to humidity or temperature swings.
If you ask your question to 10 different people, you'll probably get 9 or 10 different answers. Here's a shot of a section of my benchwork:
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
On my 2 x 8 ft. n-scale layout I used 1 x 2 frame w/plywood. Working now on a door on folding legs for new layout.
Clear (name the cheapest/available/dry/still-straight milled lumber of your choice) 1 X 4's. You can rip these to make 1 X 2's for legs or sway braces, even spline risers. The larger dimensions can be used for risers, joists, outer frame members, large member on L-girders.....
I got a good deal on clear white spruce last time. I have not been disappointed now nearly three years later.
My favorite wood for L-girder benchwork is...
STEEL
Specifically, steel stud material. In a non-climate-controlled garage in the dessicated desert, forest products of all kinds tend to take on strange shapes, all of which are totally unsuitable for square and level framing. My solution is to use steel studs, which don't react to the (lack of) humidity by developing warps and twists. There is also the little matter that wood is NOT a precision material, and that I am a mediocre carpenter who is comfortable bending tin.
On the not-quite-freestanding 5 x 12 foot structure that supports the part of the Netherworld I've built so far (and will eventually be the upper end of the Tomikawa Tani Tetsudo) the 'C act like L' girders are heavy gauge steel (nominal) 2x4s, as are the legs. The main joists are lighter-gauge 2x4 material, while lesser joists are 2x3. Risers are odd cutoffs of either size, with screwing flanges where they meet the subgrade (sometimes on two different levels.) Those flanges are created by spending a few seconds with tin snips and bending pliers, which beats all glory out of having to install separate cleats or use a pocket-screw jig. Except for a few bolted joints (meant to be disassembled if the layout ever has to be moved) everything is fastened together with the tiny cap screws intended for steel stud wall construction.
The only wood on my layout is the thin plywood subgrade which is cookie cut to support roadbed and track. If it tries to cup, twist or sag, I beat it into submission by screwing steel angle stock to the bottom.
Steel may not be for everyone. It is the best solution for me.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I've alway used 1x4 #1 clear pine for open grid bench work as well as risers BUT not no more plywood is the way to go. Put a nice fresh balde in the table saw and let er rip. As Jim stated no warping, no twisting, no knots nada zip zero. I plan on making a stop at the local Lowes tomorrow for a few sheets of 3/4 ply for the bench work in the new section.
Thanks all I thought of the metal studs but never worked with before and was going to use standard 1x4's but now leaning towards ripping 3x4 plywood so thanks for input
I use 1x4 pine for the grid. I have used some 1x3 for interior cross pieces because I had it and it works well for 30" lengths. I used to buy knotty pine, but Lowes around here has stopped carrying it. They have whitewood instead, but I don't like it - splinters and splits too easily. For my current layout I have used select pine which doesn't have knots. It's a little pricey but easy to work with. The 1x4's aren't always very straight and I have had to rip some 1x8's into 1x4's for part of the current layout.
Enjoy
Paul