I have just about completed rebuilding my Walthers Bascule Bridge and beginning to test it. I can't figure out a good way to wire the track on the lift portion. I also need a way to wire the lights on the lift portion. I am hoping they can be done the same way, if only I canfigure out how.
Does anyone have a working bridge that can share some ideas ideas on how to wire it?
Thanks,
Lou
What's a "Bascule" bridge.
Lou,
I'm a bit surprised that this expensive Walthers kit does not include a means to power the track on the hinged bridge. Regardless, you could simply solder short lengths of light gauge flexible stranded wire across the hinge point from each fixed approach rail to the corresponding rail on the bridge. Just be sure that the wire lengths are sufficient for the bridge to lift fully but not so long that they get tangled up when the bridge drops back down. I wouldn't worry too much about amperage draw through these small wires as it would be similar duty to that demanded of similarly light gauge track feeder wires.
Hornblower
Lou:
Get some multi strand "ribbon" wire. Use 4 strands, 2 for rail "jumper" wires and 2 for lighting. Ribbon wire is flexible enough to hold up to the workings of the bridge and it will keep from individual wires catching on something.
Tom Trigg
I still have my Bascule Bridge in the box waiting to be built. Can you give any tips on the construction or problems you in counted? I would be interested.
A bascule bridge is a lift bridge that is hinged on one end. It opens like the hood on a car.
"I'm a bit surprised that this expensive Walthers kit does not include a means to power the track on the hinged bridge. "
They didn't even include any tips on wiring it, except for the lift motor. Then again, since they didn't include any track I guess they didn't see any need for wiring.
I have some 30 ga wire wrap wire installed now and it should disapppear when I paint the bridge But I am not happy with it.
ttrigg Get some multi strand "ribbon" wire. Use 4 strands, 2 for rail "jumper" wires and 2 for lighting. Ribbon wire is flexible enough to hold up to the workings of the bridge and it will keep from individual wires catching on something.
Thanks, Tom. I'll try some.
topcopdoc I still have my Bascule Bridge in the box waiting to be built. Can you give any tips on the construction or problems you in counted? I would be interested. I planned to wire a separate block that would cut power if the bridge was raised to prevent trains from falling into the river. Post some pictures if you can.Doc
I can't really give any construction tips as I was not the builder. However, I did rebuild the bridge after the owner messed it up. One thing would be to not cut off any parts until you need it, and them make sure it really is the part needed. A lot of the parts look alike.
The beams and girders look to be fairly simple and are like the other Walthers bridge kits, if you've done any of them. My bridge had a problem with the deck twisted and the deck glued in crooked on the main base. I finally resorted to breaking apart the decks at the glue joints and redoing them. The only way to make sure the bridge comes out OK is to make absolutely sure that the deck is straight and square.
I clamped down the bridge deck and then I glued each piece back on and made sure it was square and then let it dry before doing the next piece. Once the deck was square and level the rest was pretty easy.
I have a CVP AD4 stationary decoder to lift the bridge. I am thinking of using 3 ports on the card. 1 would be to lift the bridge, one to change the signals and one to power the track blocks on each end of the bridge. I think I will also add a NCE mini-panel to control the macro needed to operate the setup with a push button. I am still thinking on that.
Good Luck.