Hello All
My current layout is a 9' x 11' shelf layout built in my bed room. However, I will be moving off to college in a few months and after that to life on my own. I plan to tear everything out, save the benchwork... I'm leaving that for my dad, he likes trains too, and hasn't had time or space for a layout. The old track, and everything else will be recycled into the new layout.
I am thinking of building a modern freelanced shortline based on the area where I live (South Central PA). I'm looking at building it as a sectional layout (1'x8') sections so when I move, it goes with me. What would be the best way to construct those sections so that they are light, portable, and are easily connected? Also, what type of rolling stock would be appropiate? In these troubling economic times, I really can't afford to buy more rolling stock. As of now, I have rolling stock appropiate for my current Model railroad which is set in the 1970's-1980's. Some of my rolling stock are models of prototypes from the '30s and '40s. Can I use these? If not, how can I upgrade/rebuild them at minimal/ no cost to better represent modern practices?
Thanks!
OB
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot Visit my blog! http://becomingawarriorpoet.blogspot.com
1x3's or 1x4's in a grid with pink or blue extruded foam insulation glued on top. Clamp mating sections together properly lined up and drill two holes, and use a coupel of nuts and bolts with washers on both sides to clamp them together. Leg assemblies also clamp on and drill holes for bolts. You don;t need two leg assemblies on each section - ie if you build two sections, you need 3 sets of legs. One on the free end, one on the other end of the first section, and one on the free end of the second section. So you have one totally free-standing unit and each additional section bolts on to the previous one and then has one set of legs at the free end.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
First, how about leaving the current layout intact for dad to use. If he wants to modify it, he'd still be able to run trains while waiting for some work time. Problbly wouldn't be out of line to ask for a little help when it comes time to purchase new track and roadbed. If there is a particular scene, building or such that is special to you it's fine to take that, he'll understand.
For your new layout how about using modular specifications, then your pieces would move easily. I'd suggest even if you don't go with a modular format, don't go to 8' sections, they don't fit into vehicles as well. I think I wouldn't go any longer than 6'. Go to a train show or local club that has a portable layout to see how they have done their modules. Pink/blue foam is great stuff, but if you are going to move it much be sure to protect the edges, it dings easily.
Good luck,
cowmanFirst, how about leaving the current layout intact for dad to use. If he wants to modify it, he'd still be able to run trains while waiting for some work time. Problbly wouldn't be out of line to ask for a little help when it comes time to purchase new track and roadbed. If there is a particular scene, building or such that is special to you it's fine to take that, he'll understand. For your new layout how about using modular specifications, then your pieces would move easily. I'd suggest even if you don't go with a modular format, don't go to 8' sections, they don't fit into vehicles as well. I think I wouldn't go any longer than 6'. Go to a train show or local club that has a portable layout to see how they have done their modules. Pink/blue foam is great stuff, but if you are going to move it much be sure to protect the edges, it dings easily. Good luck,
At the moment, its intact. I hope to get it running again... it hasn't run in almost a year.... so I can show off the current version. My dad and my younger brother won't be able to do much with it during my first semester, but when I'm home from break, I'll be helping them lay track and what not. They both have plenty of track, engines, and cars. I can't afford to buy new equipment, so all the track, buildings, engines and cars with a few exceptions will be boxed up before I leave. (Sitting around collecting dust isn't helping them much. )
Thanks for your suggestions. The reason I was thinking 1'x8' is because I have several boards in the basement... it never occurred to me to cut them up.... Though some of the LDE's I planned on using would work better all together on a 1x8' . Thanks for the suggestions. I assume that the modular construction would work on 1 1/2' wide board as well? (Some of the 1x8's are actually 1 1/2 x 8's)
Also, I would like some answers for the second question, as well... Thanks to you guys, I think I've got the modules figured out...
Hey OB,
Great example is on this site, the Beer Run that MR put together. Part 1 was in January'09 and they are up to Part 3 now. It will show you how they built and combined their modular pieces. Videos are on the website as well.
Good luck
Rob
rpbnsHey OB, Great example is on this site, the Beer Run that MR put together. Part 1 was in January'09 and they are up to Part 3 now. It will show you how they built and combined their modular pieces. Videos are on the website as well. Good luck Rob
Thank you. That project was in front of my nose, but I never thought to look at it... different era, not the size, etc.... I'm sure I can find some good construction info! Thanks!
*BUMP*
Well, I think I've got a handle on the benchwork, and I've got the track plan pretty well figured out. I just need to figure out the rolling stock.... See top for my question. Any one got any answers?
Thanks
As to the rolling stock issue, let me make this suggestion. You stated that you had most of your cars from the 70's and the 80's and a few were from the 30's and 40's. I got this idea from the book, Building your Next Model Railroad by Robert Schleicher which is an out-of-print book from Rocky Mountain Publishing which is a company that no longer exists.
The author suggests what he calls "time scenes." You can develop a roster for the 70's and 80's and run that roster to display that time period and then develop a roster for time era of the 30's and 40's. In my opinion, all that you would need to do is find locomotive power for those two different eras. It would seem that you would not to have purchase any new cars, but maybe an extra locomotive for that particular time period.
As to upgrading your cars, I always update all of my freight cars and locomotives with Kadee couplers and wheelsets. They are hard to top,in my opinion. Now you can upgrade your cars with new grab irons and other details, but that is more money and the impression that I am getting from you is that this is not a option. I hope this is helpful.
wcu boy As to the rolling stock issue, let me make this suggestion. You stated that you had most of your cars from the 70's and the 80's and a few were from the 30's and 40's. I got this idea from the book, Building your Next Model Railroad by Robert Schleicher which is an out-of-print book from Rocky Mountain Publishing which is a company that no longer exists. The author suggests what he calls "time scenes." You can develop a roster for the 70's and 80's and run that roster to display that time period and then develop a roster for time era of the 30's and 40's. In my opinion, all that you would need to do is find locomotive power for those two different eras. It would seem that you would not to have purchase any new cars, but maybe an extra locomotive for that particular time period. As to upgrading your cars, I always update all of my freight cars and locomotives with Kadee couplers and wheelsets. They are hard to top,in my opinion. Now you can upgrade your cars with new grab irons and other details, but that is more money and the impression that I am getting from you is that this is not a option. I hope this is helpful.
Your suggestions were helpful, its just money is an issue... and none of those options are really feasible because of that... ...I guess I was asking if it was ok (read-prototypical) of a modern shortline to rebuild several very old cars. I have some scrap and what -not laying round, so if I can cut them up/ rebuild them to better suit the era, would that work?
Thanks,
I believe that a modern shortline could rebuild several old cars. I am out of my league now. You will need more advice on this board from others who know a lot more than I do. I am sorry
To use two eras, I have always thought of a railway museum. It could be fairly small, couple of tracks with older cars and locos on display and the occasional nostalgic run, especially good for passenger cars and tourist excursions, but not impossible for freight. You could also do a much more complex museum with older buildings, automobiles and equipment on display and several excursions per day.
Have fun,
cowmanTo use two eras, I have always thought of a railway museum. It could be fairly small, couple of tracks with older cars and locos on display and the occasional nostalgic run, especially good for passenger cars and tourist excursions, but not impossible for freight. You could also do a much more complex museum with older buildings, automobiles and equipment on display and several excursions per day. Have fun,
The old cars could always be company-service only work service cars, not for revenue use. But if your time frame is modern (say late 1980s to present) then the 40' steel and older 50' steel cars would be relegated to work service, and the wood cars would be pretty much history (in the late 1980s some could still be around, but into the 1990s it'd start to be less likely. But a frugal shortline might keep some really ancient equipment rolling around in work service. Moreso than a class I.)
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog