I'm using Code 83 Atlas Flex track on my new railroad. I'm laying it on standard Midwest cork roadbed over exstruded foam subroadbed. there are no holes for tacks so I may drill my own holes, but before I do that I'd like to hear your suggestions. The solution must let me pull the track back up without ruining the track incase of changes or additions at a later date. My last railroad was tacked down with a hot glue gun never to be removed again. I WON"T MAKE THAT MISTAKE AGAIN!
If you flip the flex over you will see pilot holes in the ties. Normal track spikes won't hold in foam. Latex caulk is probably your best option.
First, tacks or track nails will have nothing to grab hold of if you're using cork roadbed over extruded foam. Second, I think either tacks or track nails are an inferior choice when compared to an adhesive method.
There's been much press, lately, about using latex caulk or some similar substance. That is certainly one alternative that would lead to neither holes in the ties nor damage upon removal. I've been quite happy with plain white glue - applied directly to the cork roadbed between the rails. Just be sure not to overdo the application of the glue. I use a single bead of glue, centered between the rails. The setting time for white glue allows for adjustment, straightening, etc. If there is a curve involved, I use push pins to hold the contour of the rail while the glue sets (over night). As the glue sets, I keep the track weighted down with fairly hefty objects placed on flat wood moulding scaps that sit on the railheads. For example, 12oz. soups can (without the soup!) filled with pennies, atop 1" x 2" by 4" strips of wood placed on the track. Another possibility for the wood might be stir sticks from the paint department of your local home improvement center or hardware store.
If the track needs to come up, the glue can be softened by soaking with some water that includes a wetting agent such as isopropyl alcohol, but I've had decent luck with a little gentle prying. Virtually no glue remains affixed to the plastic ties, and the roadbed can be cleaned up by scraping with a flat putty knife. If you're removing sections that have been ballasted, the soaking method would be preferred.
chicochip
Ditto to Chicichip's comments!! Remember to use the WHITE glue - it will remain water soluable 10 years from now!! The YELLOW glue WON'T - it's sold as water resistant!!
chicochip First, tacks or track nails will have nothing to grab hold of if you're using cork roadbed over extruded foam. Second, I think either tacks or track nails are an inferior choice when compared to an adhesive method.
When I put down my roadbed on my extruded foam layout surface, I used the long Micromark track spikes and then used regular Atlas track spikes for the flextrack. It's been holding up for a few years now.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
Just curious about something using white glue. If you want to ballast the track, would this come loose with the prewetting stage using either alcohol/water or wet water?
ok now what if someone like me is doing N scale and the flex track comes with pre-drilled ties. is it worth the time to fill in the pilot holes in the ties? what would be a good filler?
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
nyflyerI'm using ... Flex track on my new railroad. I'm laying it on standard Midwest cork roadbed over exstruded foam subroadbed. there are no holes for tacks so I may drill my own holes, but before I do that I'd like to hear your suggestions.
I've tried the latex caulk. It worked great for laying the track, but found it horrible to try to take up a small piece and replace or adjust. Ruined two turnouts that way. It cannot be easily removed from under the rails so they can be shifted a fraction of an inch one way or another. I found I had to totally take up the track, clean the bottom, scrape and sand the roadbed, before I could relay. Yuck, I'm never going to use that again.
The solution must let me pull the track back up without ruining the track incase of changes or additions at a later date.
I buy Elmers White Glue by the gallon. I use it straight to fasten track down. I put a bead down the middle, use a tooth pick to spread it thin, hold the track with pins and weight it with full cans or bottles laid on their side between the rails until it dries. If I have to take a piece of track up, it will pop up with a putty knife with no damage. The residual glue will also scrape right off the road bed and track with no damage.
I use it dilluted 3/1 to put down ground cover.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
You can use Aleene's Tacky Glue to attach your track to cork. It is a white glue that dries clear. You can easily lift it with a putty knife if you need to make track adjustments. Just weight it down with books or cans while it dries. You can find it at Walmart, Michaels, etc.
http://www.ilovetocreate.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=0ec308f9-71a4-4fd0-b4df-b4bbf7b42152
Latex caulk, the cheaper the better, is the only way to go. Don't get the adhesive stuff. That will ruin yout track if you try to take the rails up later. Just good old cheap latex caulk and a putty knife, spread it REAL thin, and you'll be good to go. To take the rails up later, use the same putty knife and slip it under the rails and gently pry up. The rails will come right up with no damage. I salvaged most (99%) of the track from my last layout that way.
Philip,
Could you mention the brand names of the latex caulk that you use so we know we're getting the right stuff.
Bob
White Lightning Bolt caulking is real good to work with. It dries white. I've used MD brand Painters caulk before too. You basically want an acrylic or latex caulk for our purposes, and you'll want to test it overnight if you're going to use it on foam and it doesn't mention if it's foam safe on the container. Most of the acrylic and latex caulks I've seen are foam safe. It's the siiclone ones that cause issues usually. The silicone ones also grip more, so taking up the rails later is tougher. If it's an adhesive, that makes it even harder. Liquid Nails for Projects, for example, once it's cured, will cause great damagee to the rails, and even the surrounding scenery if you try to remove it after it cures.
I've seen DAP brand Alex Plus Acrylic Latex Caulk plus Silicone at Lowes. According to the label, the caulk is paintable. Is this the type that would be acceptable or do you want to avoid anything with "silicone" in its name. Or were you talking about the pure silicone caulk/sealant that GE makes that is not paintable?
I avoid the silicone stuff.