Hello, Thinking of starting new N scale Shelf layout using 1x4 framing then Foam Board as Base with cork roadbed glued to it.I will use Flextrack over this.Has anybody had trouble with spikes holding the track in place until ballasting?Trying to head off any potential problems in advance.
Thank you,
Hogwire
Hogwire,
Why would you spike it, when you could just use adhesive? Just a thought. Sorry it's not the answer to your question.
I never spike down track; I use latex caulking. You can even get black and other colors of latex caulk now.
Hi,
Thanks for the reply,What type of adhesive and how long does it take to set up?
Sometimes on curves there is some tendency for flextrack to want to snap back into place..
When I am laying HO code Peco 83 flex track or Atlas (snaps back), I use "T" Pins either placed between the ties or I will drill out a railroad tie with a pin vise drill bit and stick the T Pin down through the hole in the tie and into the foam, until the adhesive sets. This has always worked for me with foam. I have included a photo of the T pin in the railroad tie. It is on the track with the SW9 roadswitcher. Make sure the T pin doesn't bottom out by either purchasing slightly thicker foam or a shorter T pin. Most craft or fabric shops or your LHS should have these is several sizes.
As for adhesives, I have used DAP adhesives for projects or Elmers Yellow Glue. If you are going on top of foam, make sure the adhesive doesn't melt the foam. Use an adhesive that works with cork and foam and you should be good to go.
The N scale layout I built years ago, (long gone now) I used white or yellow glue to tack the cork to the foam, using a stiff brush I smoothed the exess glue that oozed up in the center of the two pieces of cork then I laid the flex track down & used poster pins in between the ties to hold the track until the glue had set up. It had plenty of glue to hold the track until the ballast was glued down . Remove the pins, clean the track & run an old engine over what You just laid to make sure every thing was satsfactory. I built a 3x11.5 layout this way & it worked for Me. The good part of this is the ease of removing sections if You have a problem or make a last minute change. Good luck, the n scale equipment today is far superior to what was available 30 years ago.
I use a thin screed of Liquid Nails latex adhesive. It bonds almost instantly, though a lot more firmly than caulk. I can usually lay track and be running trains the same evening, It just takes a little more care to pull things up if I need to move something around.
Don't even bother with spikes. They are totally useless in foam.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
Thanks Lee,
The idea of not spiking is very appealing & getting away from plywood and Homasote then cork sounds alot less expensive.It'll make returning to the Hobby alittle more enjoyable I believe.Now about those Ground Throws are you gluing them also?
Are you using Atlas c55? I would use micro slide switches so you can wire the frog. They're about 30 cents a piece at Radio Shack...
I paint them silver to look like an electrical cabinet.
Just drill a hole in the plastic switch, and mount a short length of steel wire to the throwbar. And yes, I recess it into the foam with a dab of glue on the sides to secure it. If you have to move it, just cut out the chunk of foam around it then clean it off.
Foam has no holding power for track nails. None, Zip, Nada. The track nails will gain a little purchase in the cork roadbed, but that's not much, and I fear your track will never be very solid.. I would glue the track to the cork with latex caulk. Use weights and track nails to hold the track in place while the caulk dries. You can get transparent caulk which blends in much better than white.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com