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N Scale Track Placement

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  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 28 posts
N Scale Track Placement
Posted by jbdbackfan on Monday, January 5, 2009 8:37 PM

I just read a very similar post, but I am having an issue on my new N scale layout laying down the flex track.   I  bought 1/2" hobby nails (the life like brand) to nail the flex track down to the cork, with a wood base.   I am having a very hard time getting the nails in straight without moving the rail too much; in fact I have completely stopped nailing and do not have any in place because I am considering just gluing down the cork and track instead.   Is using glue ok for flextrack and on cork?  Or is there something I am doing wrong with the nails?   I even bought a stake for the nails that has a recessing hole on the end to hold nail in place but I cannot get the nail and track to stay straight.

 

Any help would be awesome,

Thanks,
Joe

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Prescott, AZ
  • 1,736 posts
Posted by Midnight Railroader on Monday, January 5, 2009 10:45 PM

Driving small nails, even with a nailset (the "stake," I presume) can be tough. It takes practice.

You can attach the track and roadbed with a thin layer of caulk, which will hold it in place but will allow the track to be pulled up and re-used if you wish.

  • Member since
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Posted by ham99 on Monday, January 5, 2009 11:13 PM

I would not glue the roadbed or track, although many do.  I use Atlas nails, not spikes, and leave them a bit loose.  When everything works, I glue the ballast in place and it holds the track and roadbed.  Then I pull the nails.  You may have better luck holding the nail in needlenose pliers to get it started.  I'm nailing into birch plywood, so I bend some and have to discard them and start over -- but that's part of the process.

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  • From: Lilburn, GA
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Posted by CSXDixieLine on Monday, January 5, 2009 11:48 PM

I have been sold on latex caulk--the same kind painters use for sealing trimwork. Just about everyone I know is using this now. There are numerous posts on this technique if you do a search; also lots of videos and articles available. Send me a PM if you would like some specific recommendations. I used track nails for the cork & flex track on the last layout, but the roadbed was Homasote (not wood) so there was no problem pusing in the nails. Jamie

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    February 2005
  • From: In the State of insanity!
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Posted by pcarrell on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 10:05 AM

I haven't used nails in like, forever!

Latex caulk, the cheaper the better, is the way to go!  I even ditched the cork in favor of foam.  Cork gets hard over time, and that transmits noise to the sub-roadbed.  It acts like a soundboard.  Foam doesn't do that.

But thats just me.........

Philip
  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Martinsburg, WV
  • 90 posts
Posted by Mntneer on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 11:37 AM

 I've got the Woodland Scenics roadbed glued down to a 1" foam base.  I've used small trim nails to hold my flex track in place, putting the nails between the ties and on each side of the track.  By spacing the nails every few inches, and on the tangent of curves, the flex track is held pretty tight.  Then I go back in and slowly place the Atlas track nails, using a needle nosed pliers. 

  • Member since
    July 2008
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Posted by super cheif n on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 6:58 PM

i have read and am going to use elmers white glue. what ever you do don't use scenic glue to glue down road bed.

- Jackson
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    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
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Posted by cudaken on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 11:34 PM

 I am HO scale and had the same problem you are. What I did when I was using plywood was to take a 1/16th drill bit and drill just a little till I broke the glue on top of the plywood. After that it was easy to drive in the spikes unless there was a knot hole.

           Cuda Ken

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Neenah, WI
  • 235 posts
Posted by sschnabl on Wednesday, January 7, 2009 6:15 PM

I model N scale and I use Micro Engineering small spikes.  The other nails, IMO, are too large.  I shave off the molded spike on a tie, drill a .072 hole, then push the spike down with a special pliers made for driving spikes.  The spikes are barely visible.

 Scott

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