I would like to get the opinions of some of you who are experienced with using uncoupling magnets. I kind of like the ones that install on top of the ties between the rails, because you can figure out where the best location for them are by running your trains, and you can move them later if you want. The down side of these is that they are always visible unless you can use it as a grade crossing. The other kind which mount under the track, have to be installed before the track is laid, and I can never figure out the best location for them. Also, if you don't get them centered properly under the track, they don't work correctly. Been there, done that. The thing is, I own a box full of the under the track type and would like to use them so as not to spend the additional funds for the other type, and because they can't be seen after installation. So, any help in how to figure out the best location for the magnets as well as the installation of them would be much appreciated.
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
You are going to get a lot of opinions on uncoupling magnets. I used them back in the late 60's, but found a couple of issues:
I finally cut off the 'glad hands' and manually uncouple everything as my layout is completely 'walk-around'. For others, remote locations may deem magnetic ramps as the only way out. If you do decide to use the magnetic uncoupling feature, adjustment of the couplers/centering springs are critical. And do not use a magnetic uncoupling ramp on the mainline - that is where you will need the electo-magnetic ramps.
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
The layout here has magnets. They are the over the ties ones. If I were doing it again I would use the under teh track ones.
The beginning of each yard track has a magnet as does each siding. I use ONLY Kadee couplers.
The delay feature is used so only one magnet is needed if there are two industries using the same siding. With the under the track magnets some way of marking them is needed that isn't too visable to visitors. A phone pole or a figure would work or a small bush or tuft of grass.
Used to have them. They were the top-of-the-ties vareity and I found them to be pretty ugly and very distracting.
I stopped using them and went with a homemade handheld uncoupling tool, which I now enjoy a lot more than using magnets.
I use magnets and I'm happy with them. My layout is 5 feet wide, so the center line is 2 1/2 feet from the edge. The "Kadee Two-Step" is a less awkward dance for me than the "Don't Knock Over the Foreground Scenery Shuffle."
I've found a few rules to make using magnets a friendlier exercise. First, don't put them on your main line. When you stop a train at the wrong place, you'll end up pulling away and leaving the crew in the caboose wondering what's taking so long. Second, get Kadee couplers and the Kadee alignment gadget. When all your couplers and trip pins are set to the right heights, you will be a happier engineer.
Set the top of the magnet even with the top of the rails. The recommended height from Kadee is just above the rail heads, but this may cause problems. For example, I've got a P2K S1 switcher which runs aground if I position the magnets according to the Kadee specification. They work just as well even with the rail heads, and nothing hangs up if the coupler heights are correct. You may have to grind down the ties a bit, by the way. The Kadee magnets sit high on Atlas Code 100 flex track.
They really don't work on curves, or next to curves. You need at least a full car length of straightaway on each end of the magnet. Use the longest fixed-coupler engine or car to determine "car length." (If you have long passenger cars with truck-mounted "Talgo" couplers, they will be OK with a short straight, but long body-mounted couplers need the full car length of straightaway.)
I use rubber cement to hold down my coupler magnets. If I find they need to be re-positioned, they come up easily. On the other hand, the ones that I got right have been there for years with no issues. You might think about using an above-ground magnet to figure out where you want the couplers, and then replace that with an under-track one once you're sure.
For my main line, I did install one of the Kadee electromagnet units, so it only uncouples when I push the button to energize the magnet. This works very well, but it's much more expensive than the standard permanent magnet, so you won't want to plan on a lot of them. I installed mine after the track was glued and ballasted, by the way. That was not the way to do it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Under track "wonder magnets". Easy to install after tracklaying or before with a simple exacto knife. Far less expensive than the large blocky ones and work at least as well.
I use 3/8" x 1/8". You can double the thickness if you want less precision in placing cars to uncouple.
Try a search. we've had previous dissions on this topic.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
ratledI was going to go with the under track magnets for my current layout. I like the under track ones because I don't see them at any angle once they are ballasted. I mark them with some non descript item so the train crews know exactly where they are.I said I was going to use them - even bought quite a hand full of them already - but I was talked out of using magnets at all and to just use the BBQ skewers. I was told to just put in the main line and try it to see if I like it. I really like it and never will go back to magnets again.For you, trying this is would be very easy since you are looking at the above the track magnets anyway. Give it a try you might like it.ratled
will skewers work with n scale?
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
i have never used the under track magnets but i do use the top mount style. i only put them at the clearance points on classification tracks and on stub end industrial sidings. i am willing to compromise on appearance to get the operating features i desire but when i ballast the yard tracks with cinders or dirt, i fill the tracks in almost to the top of the rail so the magnets don't really stand out too bad. i find that with walk around control hand uncoupling with a skewer or rix tool works fine for me. i think the remote uncoupling craze probably started back when most modelers were running their trains from a power pack at a fixed location. with today's free rolling cars, false uncouplings can occur all too often. my yard lead tracks are on a slight grade downhill, about 1/2 of 1% so pulling cuts or trains out of the tracks does not pose any problem but shoving cars into them will result in a false uncoupling now and then. of course, some of the less free rolling cars stop over the magnet while others keep rolling past it. some of those late p2k trucks enable me to "kick" cars over 5 feet, but i am just showing off when i do it.
grizlump
Thanks to all that replied. It seems the consensus is that most people use the skewers now days. That is a much easier alternative. My biggest concern was figuring out where to put the under track type, since I own a box full of them. I think I will go with using the skewers, and if I have an area that is hard to get to, I will use the ones that go on top of the track. Most of my benchwork is two feet wide, so the skewers should work out fine. Again, thanks.
I use the skewers. I like the idea of being actively involved with my layout during operations and since it's linear in design, everything is within arm's reach. Also, the magnets just don't look right to me. I do have one "long reach" siding where I did place a magnet however it's very difficult to see it between the rails. Along the same lines, I also hand throw all my turnouts for the same reason.
I use under the tie magnets and have them in my yards and on some popular sidings. They work Ok and I put a yellow dot on my control panel to note where they are at (since you can't see them once you ballast). I still do some manual uncoupling but do try to use them as much as possible. As some folks have pointed out already, don't put them on mainlines and don't park on top of them unless you plan to pull away and leave some cars behind.
Here's one of my control panel pictures so you can see where I have some located.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
You can always mount under track ones like this on main lines.
Pull the string and the magnet rises to under the track. I've never had a false uncoupling since I did this.
Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)
I use bamboo sticker, uncoupling tools like this home made:
With the eye let you can use a hook for storage.
AND Kadee magnets under the ties. In this video you see how the magnets work. (At 8.30) The magnet is hidden under the track and marked with ties next to the track and a white dot. A few magnets are movable.
And the magnets at my classification tracks are without steel plate.
I must agree, in most times I use the bamboo sticker. They're independent. But there're a few places were you need a looong arm.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
Alantrains You can always mount under track ones like this on main lines. Pull the string and the magnet rises to under the track. I've never had a false uncoupling since I did this.
Excellent idea. I can see a few variations on this design. Well done.