I haven't been on these boards in over a year. I used to lurk a lot but rarely post. I have a 4 x 8 layout that I've been working on in fits and starts over the last 10 yrs. While testing out a new reefer, it kept derailing going through one switch. Now I know some of you will say that the best way to fix a snap switch is to replace it with something more reliable, but I really want to avoid removing it if at all possible.
Here's the problem. The long inside rail on the curved side of the switch has partially come detached from the ties near the points. (the part that moves in case my terminology is wrong) This has caused the rail to deflect inward. So when the switch is set to go straight, the track is out of gauge. Set the switch the other way and the end of the points aren't able to meet the rail due to the deflection of the rail.
So I'm looking for some suggestions for reattaching the rail to the ties in the proper spot. Some thoughts so far:
-Once the rail is in place use CA cement to hold it in place. The question is how to keep it in place while the CA sets.
-Would it be practical to drill holes in the plastic ties and spike the rail in place? Maybe just while the CA dries? The problem here is avoiding interference with the points if the spikes are permanent. Just for reference my roadbed is cork on top of 2 inches of extruded foam, so as I learned while laying track 10 years ago, the cork and foam do not provide a lot of resistance to nails set in track under stress. But I think the key is the rail and ties, not the roadbed.
That's all I've got so far. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'll also try to post a picture of the offending switch shortly.
Thanks!!!!!
Don
Here's a couple photos:
Don12x12-Once the rail is in place use CA cement to hold it in place. The question is how to keep it in place while the CA sets.
Proverbial piece of cake - long dressmakers pins or (preferably) 1-1/2" or 2" Tee pins. Then CA.
I have used this trick to fix a couple of cranky areas and also to install guardrail. It works well. Use as many pins as you need plus a couple.
You can also drill the ties and insert pins through the holes for extra assurance of no creep until the glue sets.
Don't know about spikes - never tried them.
Good Luck,
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Take a few paper clips, the ordinary "medium" sized ones, and un-bend the ends so you have a U-shaped piece. You can push this directly through the cork and foam, and it will hold the track in place.
You can get CA "fixer" that instantly hardens the CA. However, this tends to make a more brittle bond, and it will likely fail again somewhere down the line in the kind of application you've got. So, you are better off holding the track in place and letting the CA set naturally.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
That rail looks bent from pressure caused by expansion. Opening up the joints might relieve the bend so you can re-secure it.
Daryl; When the kids are gone, you can be immature forever.
Great catch!
Thanks to all for the help!
Don,
I agree with Daryl. It looks like over time the track has lost any gap that it may have had and now is creating pressure whch caused the stock rail to separate from the ties.
I'd use a dremel or some means of creating a gap before gluing the rail back to the ties.
Bill
Thanks Bill. Do you (or anyone else ) think I should cut the gap right there in the section of deflected turnout rail, or a little farther down?
Also just to confirm, the rail to be gapped is the common rail. So I shouldn't need to worry about needing to add another power feeder wire, correct?
I would cut it away from the turnout. Maybe even one on each side depending on how much (if any) compression there is on the rail. Turnouts are enough trouble as you've found out. If you cut two gaps you will need to add a feeder between them.(or flexible jumpers around at least one of them). Fill the gaps with styrene if you like.
(inflation)
I would cut the gap about 6 inches down from the points. If the rail doesn't realign itself, you'll need to pull it towards the gap and use some CA to lock it in place. Once everything is reset, you can solder a small piece of wire across the gap, or run a new feeder to either side of the gap (which ever side looses electrical power, if that happens).
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
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If the rail joiner is not soldered, then I'd start there. I probably would not fill any cuts, as there goes your expansion joint(s).
I cut a gap in the rail, and voila! The deflected rail is not back to its original position, but it has relaxed enough that cars don't derail when passing through. I still plan to try putting the rail back in its original position, and secure with CA. Thanks again to all for your help.
In the near future I'll post more pictures of the layout.