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Roadbed Question

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Roadbed Question
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 4:06 PM
I am a total newbie to model railroading. My grandson and I are building a 4x8 HO layout. Our "benchwork" is 1/2 ply (appropriately framed) below 2" foam board (insulation) - so we can cut out a lake and/or creek or two. On recommendation of our LHS, we are using 1/2 O gauge cork roadbed and flex track. Also on their recommendation we are planning to use matt medium as the "glue" for both the roadbed and track (a variation on the vinyl caulk method). My question: what is the best way to hold the roadbed in place (on foam) on the curves while the "glue" is drying? I plan to use push pins for the track on the curves, but am not sure they are long enough to hold the cork bed, particularly in foam. Trying to be sure we lay our track right the first time. Thanks in advance.

John
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 7:33 PM
John;

The pins should work okay if the cork is not too stiff. If it is stiff, soak it in water, and don't remove the pins until the cork completely dries out.

I prefer Woodland Scenics foambed. For adhesive, Aleene's Tacky Glue (crafts section at Wal-Mart) works very well. Matt medium is rather old technology, it works okay, but there are many adhesives that are much superior.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Out on the Briny Ocean Tossed
  • 4,240 posts
Posted by Fergmiester on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 8:16 PM
Welcome JSoule

I use HO cork for road bed and attach it to the foam using pres-tite green contact cement (water based latex adhesive). I apply the glue to both surfaces as directed wait for it to dry (20-30 min.) and apply it. Once it is down it will not budge. This is why I mark the foam with a thin line (Centreline) before I apply the glue.

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5959

If one could roll back the hands of time... They would be waiting for the next train into the future. A. H. Francey 1921-2007  

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 8:18 PM
Thanks for your response. I was out looking for some slightly longer push pins (I have few metal ones that are longer) when I smacked my forehead and asked myself, "why not the T-pins I use when building radio control model planes?" Thanks also for the advice on the matt medium. I may give Aleene's a try.

John
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, March 17, 2004 12:03 PM
[2c]
I use metal weights. They're about 3/8" thick, 2" wide and 4" or 5" long and weigh about 4 to 6 ounces. I got them out of the scrap metal bin at work, but you probably find bars of steel at a REAL hardware store. If not check around for metal supply or small machine shops.
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Thursday, March 18, 2004 1:05 PM
For weights, un-opened food and beverage cans and plastic containers work well, and are basically free........
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California

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