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Detachable Section Track Alignment

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • 64 posts
Detachable Section Track Alignment
Posted by misterconsister on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 2:03 AM

I'm going to be building a detachable loop on my small N Scale layout.  What are the experiences of others in aligning track reliably and securing the detachable section?  I would imagine it would be smart to run track power leads to the detachable section.  Other thoughts on how I might do this?

 Eric

I'm kinda likin this stuff

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Sydney, Australia
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Posted by marknewton on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 5:29 AM
See the comments in this thread:

http://cs.trains.com/forums/1215860/ShowPost.aspx

since it covers what is essentially the same question.

Cheers,

Mark.
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Charlotte, North Carolina, USA
  • 352 posts
Posted by WaxonWaxov on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 7:27 AM

That other thread went in about fifteen different directions.

Here's what I will tell you and I am going to build: Think removable leaf table.

Alignment: Use table pins like these: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=787&filter=32334

Holding it tight: use a locking mechanism like this: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=777&filter=21585

Keeping it level: use a drop-leaf support like this: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2319&filter=30006

For connecting the power, use the power cables from the inside of an old PC.

 

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Charlotte, NC
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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 7:57 AM

I would construct the removable section, pin registered and securely latched.

THEN lay the track across the joint, securely fastened both vertically and horizontally.

THEN cut the track at the joint.

A simple dual banana plug to connect the power leads.  You don't need rail joiners if it is pin registered and secure.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Charlotte, North Carolina, USA
  • 352 posts
Posted by WaxonWaxov on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 10:00 AM
 Phoebe Vet wrote:

I would construct the removable section, pin registered and securely latched.

THEN lay the track across the joint, securely fastened both vertically and horizontally.

THEN cut the track at the joint.

A simple dual banana plug to connect the power leads.  You don't need rail joiners if it is pin registered and secure.

I agree.

Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Eastern Shore Virginia
  • 3,290 posts
Posted by gandydancer19 on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 10:13 AM
 Phoebe Vet wrote:

I would construct the removable section, pin registered and securely latched.

THEN lay the track across the joint, securely fastened both vertically and horizontally.

THEN cut the track at the joint.

A simple dual banana plug to connect the power leads.  You don't need rail joiners if it is pin registered and secure.

Yep!  That is how I do it.

Elmer.

The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.

(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Sydney, Australia
  • 1,939 posts
Posted by marknewton on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 10:56 AM
 WaxonWaxov wrote:
That other thread went in about fifteen different directions.

That other thread specifically discussed attachment and alignment methods for cassettes, which are equally usable on a detachable layout section. That's why I mentioned it.

Here's what I will tell you and I am going to build: Think removable leaf table.

Alignment: Use table pins like these: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=787&filter=32334

Holding it tight: use a locking mechanism like this: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=777&filter=21585

Keeping it level: use a drop-leaf support like this: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2319&filter=30006

For connecting the power, use the power cables from the inside of an old PC.

 


That's an unnecessarily complicated method you're proposing. Why use table pins AND an alingment/locking mechanism? One is enough, but I would not use the wooden or plastic pins, the amount of clearance they would require to enable them to be easily pushed in and out means that they would not do a very precise job of alignment anyway. The brass pins would be a better bet, and they could be used to transfer track power as well, save you faffing around with power cables from a computer.

Mark.
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Charlotte, North Carolina, USA
  • 352 posts
Posted by WaxonWaxov on Wednesday, August 20, 2008 12:46 PM

Those locking mechanisms are designed to pull the two edges together tightly, but don't protect against sliding or lateral movement.

I agree that wood or plastic pins would not be as good as metal ones, but I disagree with the idea of using them for track power... I think after a while any tarnish on the brass along with the fact there might develop some space arounf them might lead to unreliable conductivity.

 

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