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Unitrack users, tell me about your layouts
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<p>[quote user="gm68"]Here's the deal: I'm going HO, and I've decided, in spite of the limitations, to use sectional track. I really like Unitrack. What I appreciate right away, is that the basic set has almost 22" radius curves. I'm willing to go 5' by 9' to create at least one full loop of mainline that is broad enough for bigger steam locos(Berkshire, FEF, maybe even a 2-10-2). Shame that they don't prepackage track kits in HO the way they do in N! I'd like to hear your ideas, and see what you've done with your Unitrack. I'm getting anxious to start running trains![/quote]</p><p> The Kato Unitrack is superb quality--the plastic is high tech, very flexible unlike Bachmann's EZ track in that it is not brittle. The rub with Kato HO line is that they haven't expanded it as much as the Kato N track line. Still, despite the limited sectional pieces offered , the HO track once put down will serve for years (perhaps decades) trouble-free.</p><p> Kato brand is in a class of its own for the "all in one roadbed/track" product because of their superior Uni-joiner rail joiner. This beats all the competition for conductivity between joints and for mechanical reliability. I would like to see Kato come out with curved turnouts, additional small curve "make up" pieces,etc. Such a professional system deserves more choices.</p><p>I have a modest business of model railroad layout building and I have chosen to go with Kato Unitrack for the track product. My layouts from design had to be portable and movable, so I opted for a roadbed/track instead of flex and ballasting. I have tried and tested many different track brands, but the Uni-joiner wins by a far margin. It is a real plug-and-play system.</p><p> Note: the rails are Code 83 in HO which have a beautiful low profile and the roadbed has painted ballast relief which , to my eyes, looks as good as Marklin's C track but much less expensive.</p><p>If you go with the Unitrack, remember, you still need a sub-roadbed system. I recommend none other than Vinylbed brand roadbed products. Check out there site...www.vinylbed.com , they must cut to order so it takes a couple weeks to get the product but it is much superior to cork or foam.</p><p> Cork is inexpensive and looks good (under the kato unitrack you want a beveled sub roadbed material) but cork will crack and crumble in the long run. The other material is Woodland Scenics black foam--this works good too, but the black color is very unpleasing to the eye. Also, foam isn't as friendly to many fasteners (glues, adhesives,etc.) </p><p> so... In comes Vinylbed, you can use a glue gun to mount it, you dont need to make a split down the middle like with foam (a BIG pain in the arse!) and the look is quite nice--but if you dont like the look--you can paint it with any latex paint!</p><p> So, there you have it--my "roadbed trade secrets" that have took me to the four corners of the earth to unravel and years of frustration with the popular methods!</p><p> Warm Regards,</p><p> Tom P. Metzger</p><p><a href="mailto:metzgertrains@yahoo.com">metzgertrains@yahoo.com</a></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p>
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