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Removable Layout.

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  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Thailand
  • 87 posts
Removable Layout.
Posted by berlingo on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 2:32 AM

Hello,

I'm planning to build my layout in my bedroom, i've been thinking how to make it possible if my layout fixed or can be removed.   because in the future i can extend my room or have a chance  to move to the new house ,so every section of my bench work can be easily seperated. Well, i forget to tell that this layout is around the room and it's not too big.

But the problem is the joiner at the edge of the bench work, so i have to cut all the tracks to be exact in every section.   I don't know if it's going to make my head spinning , or do it fixed layout, easy to install  anyway. i have no idea at all.

I need your help, any reply would be appreciated. 


BertAXM
  • Member since
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  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
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Posted by dknelson on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 8:34 AM

I am not sure exactly what the need is here, but if I understand correctly, why not explore ending the tracks at a standardized length away from the edges where the pieces of benchwork meet, and then having a supply of sectional track of the right length that would be inserted?  This is more or less how the portable modular layouts work.  For example, if every track ended three inches from the ends, then a supply of 6" long tracks could be used to make everything match up.

By the way, I am always surprised by how many of these portable modular layouts do not bother to paint or weather the mating tracks to match the rest of the layout.  If done right you'd hardly notice that they are temporary tracks.

Dave Nelson

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Posted by R. T. POTEET on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 10:51 AM
Over in the General Discussion area there is a posting titled My Website Returns; click on Johnny_Reb's link. He presents a method of joining two faces together for mechanical alignment.

From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet

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Posted by pcarrell on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 11:46 AM
This might be a real good place to start that would answer a lot of the questions that I think you're dealing with: http://www.nmra.org/standards/modules/ms_intro.html  Check out all the links on the left of the page too.
Philip
  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Thailand
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Posted by berlingo on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 4:40 PM

Hi,

Thank you very much for your information, i have my solution at this time. I'll be going to have my own layout soon ......Bow [bow]

BertAXM
  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: Pacific Northwest
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Posted by Don Gibson on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 8:52 PM
Re: Removable layout.
 Reply Quote Delete Edit

Biggest problem is getting trough doorways, around corners and hallways, and  stairs.

WRITE MR and ask for articles on David Barrow's 1.5'x4 'Domino's.


Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ###########################
  • Member since
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  • From: PtTownsendWA
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Posted by johncolley on Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:46 AM

Another idea for your consideration....Build up a set of Free-mo modules that can easily be moved and taken to set-ups with others. This accomplishes the following:

1. You can start as simple or as detailed as you are up to. You will be gaining experience along the way. And the Free-mo group loves to share knowledge.

2. Get info, sample pictures of modules ands setups, and the spec's at their web site:

free-mo.org

3. You might consider doing some modules and some connecting fixed sections that have Free-mo interfaces.

Enjoy! jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA

jc5729
  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Martinsburg, WV
  • 90 posts
Posted by Mntneer on Thursday, July 24, 2008 8:54 AM

I'm in the process of building a removable layout. 

I built 2 open grid tables.  1 is 2'6" x 6' the other is 3'x4'.  I screwed the legs of the table to the frame from the backside, and will then screw the two tables together from underneath.  My backdrop, masonite, is attached to the backs of the table, but where the tables meet there won't be any connection between the two that's permanent. 

My plan is to lay the track and set the scenery so that when I eventually move, which could happen in a year or so, all I have to do is remove the screws connecting the tables together, remove the screws to the legs, and then carry out each table section.

I just got my backdrop put up last night, so I'll try and take some pictures this evening.

  • Member since
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Posted by WaxonWaxov on Thursday, July 24, 2008 10:25 AM

seems like a saw a thing in a book or magazine one time where the guy did the following...

He built the benchwork into separate sections as you describe and used some sort of hardware to align them/lock them together. (something like this... http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyId=1035)

THEN right where each rail was going to cross the joint, them screwed a screw into the wood so that the screw head would be directly under the rail and the top of the screw head was flush with the bottom of the rail (so the screwhead sticks between the ties) The screw head should be as close to the edge of the joint as possible (both sides) so a single track going over the joint would require four screws.

He then lays the track as normal with solid track going over the joint. After the track is in place, he solders the track to where is it fused to the screw heads. ( you can always paint and otherwise hide all this later)

Fianally, with the track securely in place and soldered-down securely very close to the joint in the benchwork, he uses a razor saw to cut a thin break in the rails.

When you get ready to move, after you disassemble the benchwork, you would want to screw scrap pieces of 1/4 plywood flush with the ends of the sections of benchwork that extend op to protect the ends of the rails from getting banged-up.

This method seems like it would work, but I've not tried it and I'm describing it from memory from reading about it several years ago. I MAY have read about it in this book... http://www.amazon.com/Small-Smart-Practical-Track-Railroading/dp/0890244162 but I would not swear on it. I lost my copy of that book several moves ago.

 

 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Thailand
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Posted by berlingo on Thursday, July 24, 2008 3:29 PM

Hello everyone,

 

Thank you for more information, i think that will be  my final solution.

And one more request, if i mostly use flex track with a lot of bending point. Do i have to think about where all the tracks will meet at the edge of the benchwork?, specially with the sectional part where there are lots of yards.  Because they will end up with different length. I don't know!

Or i have to prepare some extension tracks to fill up until they meet another tracks at the next table. this is also my worry.

 

Thank you,

My English is so very poor, please don't mind that......Banged Head [banghead]

BertAXM

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