Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Sorry, another hand laid track question

677 views
4 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • 228 posts
Sorry, another hand laid track question
Posted by mike33469 on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 9:03 PM

I've started converting my layout to hand laid  track, so far only one of my yards with only straight track.  My question is how do I lay curved track w/o spending $60.00 on a rail bending tool.  My scale is HO, code 83 and I'm gluing rail to the ties with Pliobond.  I'm planning on going back and spiking later after the Pliobond has set up. Thanks.

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Thursday, July 17, 2008 6:38 AM

You just curve the rail and spike it down.  In 25 years of handlaying track, I've never owned and have never met anybody with a tool to bend rail.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Prescott, AZ
  • 1,736 posts
Posted by Midnight Railroader on Thursday, July 17, 2008 6:56 AM

You'll need to spike as you go.

The Pliobond won't hold a curve by istelf.

Just bend the rail and spike it around the curve. It isn't tough to do. No tool required.

I don't use one, and have laid curves just fine.

  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: North Myrtle Beach, SC
  • 995 posts
Posted by Beach Bill on Thursday, July 17, 2008 7:30 AM

Concur..   I spiked two or three locations along the curve that held the (initial) rail in place, then finished spiking that rail down.  The second rail is then spiked in gauge with the first.  I doubt if glue can hold it properly.  "Shaping" the rail by hand risks creating a kink; I found it better to hold those outer points of the curve in position and allow the rail to somewhat adjust to the curve (within the boundaries set by your plan and ties, of course).    If properly spiked, there is no need to risk getting glue where you don't want it, as it is difficult to clean up.

Now, when I started with a garden railroad and Code 250 rail, then I needed a rail bender...

Bill

With reasonable men, I will reason; with humane men I will plead; but to tyrants I will give no quarter, nor waste arguments where they will certainly be lost. William Lloyd Garrison
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Colorado
  • 4,075 posts
Posted by fwright on Thursday, July 17, 2008 9:49 AM

I found that pre-bending the rail for curves eliminates the long-term stress on spikes and enables me to do away with rail joiners.  In the past, I have pre-bent my rail by hand.  This was with code 70 rail on 18" radius curves.  I may try a rail bender in the future, but do not regard it as critical.

Whether pre-bending rail by hand or with a tool, I found it very difficult to get the radius consistent for the last 1/2 inch or so - I would often end up with a kink followed by a relatively straight section.  I ended up either cutting the last 1/2 inch off, or gently bending the curve in using pliers.

just my experiences

Fred W

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!