Woodland Scenic makes foam risers that are easy to install and pretty cheap if you ask me. Set is about $13.00. Here are a few pictures.
You can bend the risers to go around turns like I did or uses them in straighs as well.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
HI
Your could use WS(Woodland Scenics) foam risers. Go to thier homepage at www.woodlandsenics.com . Your could also use pink foam insulation board found at Home Depot or Lowes. Just sand it with sandpaper to make it smooth.
-Tim
If you are using 1/2 inch foam, you might want to try this method. I am using it on my Layout, module made from hollow core flat panel doors, but it will work on any flat tabletop surface like a 4x8 plywood top. I "cookie cut" the foam in the general design of the elevation I want and glue down spacers at 12 inch intervals to act as risers like those use in L girder construction many modellers use for their layouts. The math is remarkably simple- add 1/4 inch spacer every 12 inches until your desired height is reached. If you have 1/4 inch plywood / masonite / plastic / whatever, just stack and add layers. You can also use combinations of scrap 1/2 inch foam with 1/4 in plywood to get the proper height for each riser. 8 risers with a 1/4 inch rise every 12 inches will give you a total of 2 inches of rise in 96 inches or just a hair over 2% grade. I suggest the first riser be made of 1/8 inch to give you a very gentle transition into the grade, so actually adding the 1/8 inch riser will give you 2 in. rise in 108 inches, slightly under 2%. A 3% (approximate) grade can be made by using 3/8 inch multiples in your risers or by spacing the 1/4 in stepped risers every 8 inches instead of every 12 inches. the 1/2 inch foam is flexable enough to make a smooth transition at the bend points yet strong enough to support almost anything ( but your own weight, ie. leaning on it) in N or HO scales. By the time you laminate (glue down ) layers of cork or foam roadbed and the track, the strength increases many times. Ballasting and hard shell scenery will further strengthen the structure of the foam sub-roadbed.. It's all good!
I once caught a train in my pajama's. How it got in my pajama's I'll never know... (sorry, Groucho)
ds137 wrote:If you are using 1/2 inch foam, you might want to try this method. I am using it on my Layout, module made from hollow core flat panel doors, but it will work on any flat tabletop surface like a 4x8 plywood top. I "cookie cut" the foam in the general design of the elevation I want and glue down spacers at 12 inch intervals to act as risers like those use in L girder construction many modellers use for their layouts. The math is remarkably simple- add 1/4 inch spacer every 12 inches until your desired height is reached. If you have 1/4 inch plywood / masonite / plastic / whatever, just stack and add layers. You can also use combinations of scrap 1/2 inch foam with 1/4 in plywood to get the proper height for each riser. 8 risers with a 1/4 inch rise every 12 inches will give you a total of 2 inches of rise in 96 inches or just a hair over 2% grade. I suggest the first riser be made of 1/8 inch to give you a very gentle transition into the grade, so actually adding the 1/8 inch riser will give you 2 in. rise in 108 inches, slightly under 2%. A 3% (approximate) grade can be made by using 3/8 inch multiples in your risers or by spacing the 1/4 in stepped risers every 8 inches instead of every 12 inches. the 1/2 inch foam is flexable enough to make a smooth transition at the bend points yet strong enough to support almost anything ( but your own weight, ie. leaning on it) in N or HO scales. By the time you laminate (glue down ) layers of cork or foam roadbed and the track, the strength increases many times. Ballasting and hard shell scenery will further strengthen the structure of the foam sub-roadbed.. It's all good!
ok i get an a in math but that made my brain hurt, what i plan to do is just glue pink foam to gether untill i get my desierd hight and length then sand it down.
Sorry 'bout that- I didn't pay much attention to your signature line....
I guess you are going to go with either a 2 percent or 3 percent grade -make the first riser 1/4 inch, the next one 1/2 inch, the next one 3/4 inch, etc. make each one 1/4 in taller than the next until you reach the total height you want. Space them on your table either 8 or 12 inches apart (depending on if you want 3% or 2% grade) Glue them in place. Then lay the 1/2 in foam right on top of the risers. This will make a smooth ramp without making a lot of mess trying to sand down stacked layers of foam. I will try to post some pictures when I get home from work
well my layout is to compact for 2-3% grade.
instead of sanding it all the way down, ill proly just use a steak knife to get the rogh shape and form the sand it smoth. that'll be my way of doing it.
BNSF, the grade I showed is 4%. How steep do you need? Turn is 18 inch as well, how tight do you need? Foam risers will go tighter yet.
I have made my own risres out of pink foam and it blows but works.
Let me know what you need and I and others will try to help.
i dont know how steep yet, i have an oval and i have came up with a track plan on my own that would make the layout better, i was getting ideas on how to build stuff. if i can I will post a pic of what i plan.
note: i am useing 22" radius curves.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
it might be easyest for me to get my new track plan posted and mabe that'll help with the advice.
ok this is the best i could do: links to photo bucket, note im not a great drawer and they didnt scan to the computer very dark. the 1st one is what it loos like now and the second is my new track plan.
http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m340/bigracer365/?action=view¤t=scan0001.jpd
http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m340/bigracer365/?action=view¤t=scan0003.jpd
i'll see if it comes up.
One time someone asked me to build them inclines for the 2nd tier of the their MRR layout. And they were going to pay me handsomely for it. However...I declined the job.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Seems we need a pass word. I have a bucket account, to post pictures right click on the bottom file name for that file then paste in your posting.
As far as your spelling, I was given a break when I was in school. I am now 54 (or am I 53? Getting old blows) and one of the worst spellers here and on the faces of the plant! My God I am only 52? I just doubled checked!
I started a list of words I knew I missed spelled and refereed to the list when I came a cross one. I spell better now than when I was in school, but that does not say much.
Does not help when you list in your resume.
I was frist places in the nation in your company in sales when you where trying to spell first places.
Anyway have fun and we will help.
Just out of curiosity, what do you mean by "the freedom I need"?? WS risers are very easy to use, come in three different grades, are extremely flexible, and ensure a nice steady rise. LOTS easier than hacking at pink foam with a knife trying to make a grade.
You would be well advised to avoid the "flexibility" you seem to desire. Grades greater than 4% are seldom found on railroads and should be avoided by model railroaders. Just because you have built whatever grade you want does not mean your model locomotives will be able to pull anything (including themselves) up that grade. There are mechanical limits! even if there are no limits to your imagination! The most common mistake in model railroading is to attempt putting too much into too small a space, The second most common mistake (often related to the first) is to create grades which are too steep. There is a reason WS does not manufacture inclines of more than 4%. You should accept those limits. Failure to do so will almost certainly mean your layout will also be a failure.